Tabacco Carta Topographica 1:25,000 Sheet 022
Tourist Information Office
APT Fiera di Primiero, Via Dante 6, 38054 Fiera di Primiero, Italy (TN)
Tel: 0439.62407
Fax: 0439.62992
E-mail: [email protected]
Tourist Information Office
APT San Martino Di Castrozza, Via Passo Rolle 165, 38054 San Martino Di Castrozza, Italy (TN)
Tel: 0439.768867
Fax: 0439.768814
E-mail: [email protected]
Internet (both offices): www.sanmartino.com
Pala di San Martino is a stunning group of mountains with a number of high-quality and serious via ferratas. There is an abundance of accommodation in the Primiero valley, with Fiera di Primiero at its southern end and San Martino di Castrozza to the north both providing a full range of facilities, including accommodation to suit all pockets. A two-stage lift system from S. Martino gives easy access to the north-western area of the group. There are large and helpful tourist offices in both resorts, as detailed above. Local mountain guides attend the S. Martino office each evening from 1730 to 1930hrs (or tel. 0439.768795, www.aquilesanmartino.com, Email [email protected], Cellphone +39 342 981 3212). There are three campsites: Camping Sass Maor, Via Laghetto 48, San Martino, tel. 0439.68347, email [email protected]; Camping Castelpietra Val Canali, Transaqua, tel. 0439.62426, email [email protected]; Campeggio Calavise, Imer, tel. 0439.67468, www.campingcalavise.it. Fiera di Primiero has a sports centre which includes an indoor swimming pool that opens at 1500hrs seven days a week throughout the summer.
The routes in the Pala resemble a giant game of snakes and ladders, with any number of permutations available for combining routes. In stable weather, the Pala mountains are superb for multi-day trips using rifugios to stay high up in the mountains and to link combinations of routes. Your choice is likely to depend on your transport arrangements; if you have a car, then you will probably select a circuit, whereas if you are using public transport, or are on a hutting tour, then you will perhaps choose a traverse.
The soaring peaks of the southern Pala group, dominated by Sass Maor, seen from the west
For simplicity each ferrata in this section is described as a discrete entity, providing an explanation of how it can be linked with other routes. Where one route is generally used in ascent, and the other in descent, the most suitable way of completing the circuit is recommended. You can then choose your own combination of routes depending on fitness, weather and the time you have available.
Suggested Combinations of Routes
S.MAR 1 and 2 are complementary, but can be climbed separately.
S.MAR 3 – S.MAR 9 are in the central area of the Pala, between Rif. Rosetta and Val Canali. These seven routes offer numerous combinations: the best are as follows.
Combine S.MAR 4 and 3 as a circuit from Rif. Rosetta, or climb either S.MAR 3 or S.MAR 4 individually and then use S.MAR 6 as the descent route.
S.MAR 5 is generally climbed with S.MAR 6 used as the descent route.
S.MAR 6 is not often climbed, usually being used as a descent for the S.MAR 3, 4 or 5 routes.
S.MAR 7 goes up to Rif. Velo and can easily be climbed up and down in the same day. Alternatively, use S.MAR 7 as a descent after climbing S.MAR 8 or S.MAR 9.
S.MAR 8 is normally climbed in a clockwise circuit, using S.MAR 9 as the descent route (although S.MAR 7 could also be used as the descent).
S.MAR 9 is normally used as the descent route from S.MAR 8, but it could be used as an ascent route, with S.MAR 7 (or even S.MAR 8) as the descent.
At the end of Val Canali, on its eastern side you will find the remaining three routes in this section, S.MAR 10, 11 and 12. They are climbed as follows.
S.MAR 10 is an ascent route with S.MAR 11 as descent.
S.MAR 12 is a short, stand-alone route.
S.MAR 1
Via Ferrata Bolver Lugli
| Grade: | 4 |
| Seriousness: | C |
| Departure point: | Colverde gondola lift, San Martino di Castrozza to 1980m |
| Ascent: | 1520m |
| Descent: | 850m |
| Via ferrata: | 500m |
| Approximate time: | 7–7½ hours |
| Highest altitude: | 3192m, Cima della Vezzana |
| These timings and height statistics include the ascent of Cima Vezzana and a return down Val dei Cantoni to the top of the Funivia Rosetta cable car. |
To complicate matters on this route you have a choice of length of day depending on experience, fitness levels, possible snow/ice conditions and the weather on the day. If attempting the route in a single day then try and be at the gondola when it opens at 0800hrs.
This route is one of the finest in the Dolomites. It is a serious expedition at a high altitude on a high-grade ferrata, and as such is not a route for beginners.
Access to the start of the route is made easy by using the gondola from San Martino di Castrozza to Colverde, 1970m; this operates in the summer from mid-June until the end of September and is open from 0800 to 1730hrs. (There are reductions for CAI, DAV and OeAV, as well as juniors and seniors.)
Ascend from the Colverde gondola station on path 712/706, which is clearly signed and well waymarked (although the sign does say the route should only be climbed with a guide ‘Via Attrezzata
