near the head of the Doron gorge. The trail climbs over a rocky bluff, then crosses a broad, open, moorland-like stretch running with streams in the early season, and fine views across the glen to the Dent Parrachée and Pointe de Bellecôte. Beyond this moorland the way veers to the right and eventually drops steeply to a shelf bright with alpenroses, below which a bridge crosses a stream draining the upper glen. There follows a short exposed section of footpath, but this soon gives way to easier terrain and a dirt road that makes a traverse of the eastern hillside. This dirt road passes just below Refuge du Plan Sec, with a narrow trail climbing in a few moments up to it.
Draining the Glaciers de la Vanoise, waterfalls spray down crags above the path that leads to Refuge de l’Arpont
Refuge du Plan Sec to Refuge de l’Arpont
On the third stage the route enters the Doron valley which later provides some of the loveliest of all Vanoise scenery. In order to gain that valley from Plan Sec, GR5 is once again adopted as the best route of access; the same trail as that used by the Tour des Glaciers de la Vanoise on the way to Refuge de l’Arpont. From Plan Sec the dirt road is followed a short way downvalley, then a narrow trail forks across meadows and teeters along the steeply plunging hillside quite 1100 metres above the ribbon of l’Arc. A short gully is climbed by a tightly twisting path, then a wide and easy trail breaks away on a rising traverse followed by switchbacks to an open grass saddle near the ruins of La Turra above the unseen Monolithe de Sardières. Another twisting uphill trail leads to a comfortingly easy traverse of a combe, beyond which one further saddle is crossed by more chalet ruins at La Loza. By straying a few paces from the trail onto a nearby hillock, an extensive panorama may be enjoyed which includes both La Grande Casse and La Grande Motte to the north of the Doron gorge, while north-east across the valley the continuing trail of the Tour of the Vanoise can just be seen, as can Termignon nestling at a junction of streams 1000 metres and more below.
After rounding a spur at La Loza the trail cuts across another large combe (snow patches early in the summer) and tops a bluff marked on the map as Montafia. Just beyond this the route curves into the Combe d’Enfer, a charming corrie wild above and vegetated below. On its north-eastern side there’s a small farm advertising home-made cheese, drinks and couchettes – a remote lodging reminiscent of that experienced by the Victorian pioneers. Now heading north-west the trail lines the mountainside walling the Doron gorge, and on the final approach to the hut crosses numerous streams draining the Glaciers de la Vanoise – streams that have cut deep channels in the natural hillside shelf. Cascades pour their silver over a line of cliffs above to the left, while Refuge de l’Arpont sits perched on a narrow levelling hillside spur projecting from the Dôme de Chasseforêt, gazing south to the far boundary of the Maurienne.
Refuge de l’Arpont to Refuge du Vallonbrun
Above Arpont high mountain views increase in grandeur on one of the best of all stages of this ever-delightful tour. Continuing north along the western wall of the Doron gorge, the way hiccups over a series of bluffs and open pastures with the hint of glaciers above, and the dark face of the Pointe de la Réchasse disguising the full extent of the much bigger Grande Casse rising behind it. Glacial torrents dash through the pastures and glens rough with old moraines, while other glens off to the right entice with their own mystique. La Grande Motte shows itself above shadows that tell of the Vallon de la Leisse through which the route will return in four or five days’ time, then a sudden descent is made to the head of the Doron gorge and a confluence of streams – that which drains the Vallon de la Leisse itself, and the Torrent de la Rocheure coming from the east. An old dairy farm sprawling on the hillside above to the north houses the Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux. Described as being ‘long and low, rising at one end to a second storey,’ the refuge seems hardly to have changed since Janet Adam Smith first stayed there in 1935. Full of character and surrounded by the calm of remote mountain country, ‘the way to the south lies wide open, letting the sun in at all seasons.’ (Mountain Holidays) But the Tour of the Vanoise chooses to ignore Entre Deux Eaux on this occasion, and instead rises to the south over hillsides thick with shrubs until a more open pastureland is reached which leads easily to the PNV’s Refuge du Plan du Lac with its memorable outlook west to the Glaciers de la Vanoise across the depths of the unseen gorge.
Stage five leads to another PNV hut, Refuge du Vallonbrun. It’s a varied day’s walking of about six hours, heading south from the start and soon passing alongside the sparkling lake of Plan du Lac (spectacular reflected views looking north), then down to Bellecombe at the limit of access for private vehicles on the road from Termignon. At this point a trail cuts off to the east, crossing rolling pastures and soon leading round a huge open pastoral cirque sparsely dotted with simple farms below the Crête de Côte Chaude. The southern end of this cirque comes at the Turra de Termignon, a fine viewpoint on a spur of the Crête de la Turra (an extension of the Côte Chaude crest), which overlooks the deep valley of l’Arc. A small summer-only farmhouse nestles here under the ridge in a dramatic situation. The trail drops past it and continues to descend steeply through natural rock gardens and dense forest. Coming to a forest track the way eases on what becomes a long eastward traverse; the track eventually giving way to a footpath that climbs to the unmanned Refuge du Cuchet, then resumes its belvedere course below the Grand Roc Noir all the way to Vallonbrun.
Refuge du Vallonbrun to Val d’Isère
From Vallonbrun to Bonneval-sur-Arc is an undemanding stage in which the Tour of the Vanoise explores flower-rich meadows in the bed of the Haute-Maurienne. A short distance upvalley from Refuge du Vallonbrun, by the side of a small chapel, a path descends through pastures, creeps alongside yet more ruined buildings, and continues in a series of steep zig-zags to Le Collet, a small hamlet crowded on the Col de la Madeleine. From here to Bonneval the trail remains on the north bank of l’Arc. It passes through meadows, visits Bessans and Le Villaron (both of which have accommodation), followed by a gentle walk to Bonneval for a night’s lodging. There are hotels in Bonneval and nearby Tralenta, a CAF chalet-refuge, and another privately-owned hut (Refuge du Criou) which stands on the mountainside to the south-east.
Bonneval is linked with Val d’Isère by a road that crosses Col de l’Iseran. The Tour of the Vanoise also uses the Iseran, but fortunately manages to avoid the road for all but a very short stretch, in so doing wanders through the charming Vallon de la Lenta and a narrow rocky gorge crossed in one place by a more or less permanent snow bridge. In order to gain the Vallon de la Lenta a sharp ascent is made of the hillside above and behind Bonneval. There follows a brief stretch along the Iseran road, then a gentle amble through the Lenta glen where a few stone chalets enjoy a vision of great beauty, gazing back as they do across the Maurienne to the Albaron and Ciamarella group of mountains. A footbridge spanning the Lenta stream brings another trail in from the left – an alternative high-level route used by a variant of the GR5 from near Bessans by way of the unmanned Refuge du Molard and the Vallon amphitheatre.
Soft pastures in Vallon de la Lenta are soon exchanged for the narrow gorge, emerging at its northern end by the road bridge of Pont de la Neige. The road is ignored as a trail continues along the left-hand hillside, rising steadily to the Col de l’Iseran. Here the road is crossed and a narrow trail followed down through the scoop of Vallon de l’Iseran, unhappily littered with ski machinery. However, all this is soon left behind and Val d’Isère reached by a fragrant forest trail; the best way to enter this bustling resort.
Val d’Isère to Entre Deux Eaux
Although lacking the kind of tranquillity experienced in mountain refuges adopted for overnight accommodation elsewhere on this tour, it has to be said that for such a busy resort Val d’Isère is not entirely without grace, and it provides an ideal opportunity to restock with provisions for the next stage or two which return the route to the confines of the National Park across Col de la Leisse. However, before the delights of the Vallon de la Leisse may be won, a cross-country trail is taken to the ski grounds of Lac de Tignes
