past Tignes and Val Claret as fast as their rucksacks allow, in order to regain uncluttered landscapes. Col de la Leisse provides that renewal, although on the slopes of La Grande Motte, soaring high overhead, a string of cableways can be seen, and even in summer skiers, tiny in the distance, weave patterns on snowfields gleaming in the sunshine. Descent into Vallon de la Leisse allows spiritual refreshment through the harsh colours of nature’s raw artistry. Bare rock walls, boulders patterned with green and khaki lichen, dusty screes, meandering streams and grey marsh, plus a tarn or two, black when cloud-shadows drift across, take the trail to the tent-shaped Refuge de la Leisse; three buildings, in fact, overlooking the lower western end of the glen that curves out of sight to the left. Edelweiss star the slopes around the hut, and chamois and marmot inhabit the grasslands lower down.
Stage nine of our circuit crosses Col de la Vanoise on the way to Pralognan, but walkers with sufficient days in hand may be seduced into diverting from the main tour in order to explore the delights of the Rocheure glen that runs east to west on the far side of the Vallon de la Leisse’s southern wall of mountains. There are two overnight options to consider. The first is Refuge de la Femma, a PNV hut charmingly situated deep inside the Vallon de la Rocheure; the second is Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux already described on the stage from Arpont to Plan du Lac. If the latter is chosen, the following day’s walk to Pralognan will not be quite so demanding, and it also means that the Rocheure glen can be wandered without a rucksack – or at least, with an even lighter ‘sack than normal. Assuming this to be the case, leave Refuge de la Leisse and walk downvalley on a good path that remains on the left bank of the stream as far as the humpbacked Pont de Croé-Vie, a stone bridge that takes the main trail to Col de la Vanoise. Ignore the bridge and continue down the left bank as far as Entre Deux Eaux, and there book a bed for the night and leave any non-essential baggage, before continuing beyond the hut to cross the Rocheure torrent a short distance below. Over the stream bear left through the glen to Refuge de la Femma, reached in a little over two hours from Entre Deux Eaux. It’s a fine, undemanding walk, with gentle views upvalley, and more challenging views back to the west to be enjoyed on the return. And the hut itself is both comfortable and welcoming, providing an enjoyable interlude.
Entre Deux Eaux to Modane
The continuing tour across Col de la Vanoise, resumes its uphill course on the west side of the Pont de Croé-Vie, twisting among alpenroses, then easing a little among boulders before entering the high, bleak trough that runs between Pointe de la Réchasse and La Grande Casse. This trough can be quite a wind-funnel, but on calm days the almost level trail may be enjoyed at leisure, while mountain walls rising on either side add an air of wild grandeur. Cushion plants do their best to brighten the way, and once they’ve lost the ice flows of spring, a couple of small tarns near the col itself cast reflections of sharp aiguilles. In three and a half hours from Refuge de la Leisse (a little less from Entre Deux Eaux) you should arrive at the Refuge du Col de la Vanoise, then decide whether to take the main trail down to Pralognan via the north side of the Aiguille de la Vanoise and Lac des Vaches, or follow a longer and less-trodden way past Lac des Assiettes and below the Glacier and Grande Aiguille de l’Arcelin.
It would be possible for fit walkers to reach Modane in a single day from Pralognan by way of Col de Chavière. In certain cases it may be necessary to do so, but it would be a shame to rush this final crossing for there’s still plenty on the tour to absorb and enjoy. The alternatives are to either plan a short day’s walk as far as Refuge de Péclet-Polset, or continue over the Chavière, but instead of going all the way down to Modane, spend a last night in Refuge de l’Orgère. Should you have a train to catch next morning, it would still be feasible to do so after breakfast at Orgère, for it’ll only take a couple of hours to reach the station from there.
Leaving Pralognan the trail to Péclet-Polset goes through forest for a while on the east bank of the river, then crosses to the other side at Pont de Gerlan. A track is then followed to Les Prioux, a small hamlet with accommodation in the Chalet-Refuge le Repoju. Immediately beyond Les Prioux it becomes necessary to walk for a short distance along the valley road as far as an unsurfaced parking area near Pont de la Pêche. Back on the west bank once more the route follows a track for some way through pastures with bare mountains on either side, but with growing views of snowfield and glacier towards the head of the valley. The track narrows to footpath which rises steadily from one natural step to the next until rolling grassland gives way to more savage terrain. And there, above the trail to the right, stands Refuge de Péclet-Polset.
South of the refuge stony mounds and scree-runnels, hollows and boulder tips make an uncompromising scene. But there are also poor patches of grass and a few small pools to brighten an otherwise drab landscape. Col de Chavière is reached in less than an hour and a half from the hut. A narrow saddle in a sharp crest of stone, it is without question the finest true col on the Tour of the Vanoise. Marked by a large cairn, both sides plunge steeply to scree and rock, and on the proverbial clear day views are impressive. To the north-east Mont Blanc can be seen, while to the south-west Mont Thabor and major summits of the Écrins massif swell against the horizon.
Descending scree at first, the southern side of the col soon leads to a choice of routes. One leads down the right-hand side of the Tête Noir’s dividing bluff into the glen drained by the Ruisseau de St Bernard, the other traces the east flank of Tête Noir before dropping steeply to Refuge de l’Orgère. Both routes combine in forest to the south and descend directly to Modane in the Maurienne.
To summarise, the Tour of the Vanoise makes a very fine circuit; not too demanding but scenically delightful throughout. Accommodation is plentiful, trails good, waymarks sufficient without being intrusive. But as the Vanoise National Park is extremely popular during the main summer season, walkers intending to tackle this route, especially from mid-July to mid-August, are advised at least to telephone ahead to reserve places in mountain huts. Note that snow often lies across some of the higher trails well into July, and caution is then advised.
| Day 1: | Modane – Refuge de l’Orgère |
| Day 2: | Refuge de l’Orgère – Col du Barbier – Refuge du Plan Sec |
| Day 3: | Refuge du Plan Sec – Refuge de l’Arpont |
| Day 4: | Refuge de l’Arpont – Refuge du Plan du Lac |
| Day 5: | Refuge du Plan du Lac – Turra de Termignon – Refuge du Vallonbrun |
| Day 6: | Refuge du Vallonbrun – Bessans – Le Villaron – Bonneval-sur-Arc |
| Day 7: | Bonneval-sur-Arc – Col de l’Iseran – Val d’Isère |
| Day 8: | Val d’Isère – Pas de la Tovière – Col de la Leisse – Refuge de la Leisse |
| Day 9: | Refuge de la Leisse – Col de la Vanoise – Pralognan |
| or: | Refuge de la Leisse – Refuge de la Femma – Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux |
| Day 9a: | Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux – Col de la Vanoise – Pralognan |
| Day 10: | Pralognan – Refuge de Péclet-Polset |
| or: | Pralognan – Col de Chavière – Refuge de l’Orgère |
| Day 11: | Refuge de Péclet-Polset – Col de Chavière – Modane |
The Eastern Graians
To all intents and purposes the Eastern Graians mean the Gran Paradiso and its national park, a rewarding area that comprises
