Savoia (or Rif Citta di Chivasso)
Alta Via della Valle d’Aosta No 2
Unlike the GTGP, Alta Via 2 remains on the Valle d’Aosta flank of the mountains and links one valley after another by way of cols that are mostly situated halfway along the transverse ridges. These crossings actually reveal a better perspective than is sometimes shown from the higher cols, for one can view the larger mountains to the south at a distance, and thereby gain the full visual contrast of summit snows and deep valley greenery without the foreshortening effect occasionally experienced on GTGP crossings. It’s a fine week-long route, with overnights spent in a combination of mountain huts and village hotels. Camping is also a possibility, but it should be borne in mind that within the national park wild camping is forbidden. There are campsites in several villages on the route, and it’s possible to restock with food supplies once or twice along the way.
The first two stages from La Thuile to Planaval are the same as that taken by the GTGP, thereafter the two routes go their separate ways. Alta Via 2 has two options; one follows the valley road south to Valgrisenche village, and is better suited to walkers who arrived in Planaval with plenty of time and energy left and who choose the latter village for their second overnight stay, while the alternative traces a route along the upper forest line on the east side of the valley. The two options merge a little north of the Épée hut where the route then climbs to the narrow Col de la Finestra at 2840 metres. The descent to Rhêmes Notre-Dame is a steep one of about two hours.
Leaving Val di Rhêmes the Alta Via adopts a pleasant route over wooded hillsides and open pastures to gain Col de l’Entrelor (3007m) in about three and a half hours. From this point glaciers of the Herbetet-Paradiso ridge shine across the depths of Val Savarenche, while a few blue tarns sparkle in the Nampio glen just below. An undemanding descent leads to Eaux Rousses (Eau Rousse) on the left bank of the Savara stream, with the next col on the route being visible virtually every step of the way.
At 3296 metres, Col Lauson is the highest crossing by far on this traverse, and with five hours needed for the 1600 metre climb from Eaux Rousses. At the col the landscape changes dramatically and the initial descent is safeguarded with fixed cables and chains. It then eases for the walk down to Rifugio Vittorio Sella which is in view for much of the descent. The alternative is to continue down to Valnontey, but it is better to stay at the hut in order to watch the great herds of ibex at dusk and the following dawn.
There follows a long valley stretch, descending from the Sella hut to Valnontey and Cogne, then on to Lillaz. Beyond this last village the path climbs through the Vallone di Urtier, then after crossing a brow it levels in a fertile upper alp area before climbing again to the final col, the Finestra di Champorcher (2826m). On the east side of this pass and about 250 metres below, stands Rifugio Miserin by the lake of the same name. Champorcher, the end of the route, is a morning’s walk away.
| Day 1: | La Thuile – Rifugio A. Deffeyes |
| Day 2: | Rifugio A. Deffeyes – Pas de Planaval – Planaval (or Valgrisenche) |
| Day 3: | Planaval (or Valgrisenche) – Col de la Finestra – Rhêmes Notre-Dame |
| Day 4: | Rhêmes Notre-Dame – Col de l’Entrelor – Eaux Rousses |
| Day 5: | Eaux Rousses – Col Lauson – Rifugio V. Sella (or Valnontey) |
| Day 6: | Rifugio V. Sella – Cogne – Finestra di Champorcher – Rifugio Miserin |
| Day 7: | Rifugio Miserin – Champorcher |
Finally, before leaving the Graians, mention should be made of an eight- or nine-day route for experienced mountain walkers which links Pralognan in the Vanoise National Park with Cogne at the foot of the Gran Paradiso. This route, described in reverse in Stefano Ardito’s Walking & Climbing in the Alps, has one small glacier section to contend with on the crossing of 3109 metre Col du Carro, and uses huts on all stages bar one, when a village hotel provides overnight accommodation in Eaux Rousses in Val Savarenche. The basic route outline is given on the following page.
A Traverse of the Graian Alps – Route Summary
| Day 1: | Pralognan – Col de la Vanoise – Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux |
| Day 2: | Refuge d’Entre Deux Eaux – Refuge du Plan du Lac – Refuge du Cuchet |
| Day 3: | Refuge du Cuchet – Refuge du Vallonbrun – Bessans – Bonneval-sur-Arc |
| Day 4: | Bonneval-sur-Arc – l’Écot – Refuge du Carro |
| Day 5: | Refuge du Carro – Col du Carro – Col di Nivolet – Rifugio Citta di Chivasso |
| Day 6: | Rifugio Citta di Chivasso – Pont – Eaux Rousses |
| Day 7: | Eaux Rousses – Col Lauson – Rifugio V. Sella |
| Day 8: | Rifugio V. Sella – Valnontey – Cogne |
The Graian Alps
Location:
Straddling the Franco–Italian border south of Mont Blanc. The Western Graians, which include the mountains of Beaufortain and Vanoise, are in the département of Savoie, while the Eastern Graians, including the Gran Paradiso, fall within Piedmont and the autonomous region of Aosta.
Principal valleys:
The Tarentaise (valley of l’Isère), with the tributaries of Ponturin, Champagny, Pralognan and Chavière, and the Maurienne (l’Arc) whose main tributaries are the Doron, Ribon and Avérole, are the main valleys of the Western Graians. In the Eastern (Italian) Graians, Valle d’Aosta, Val Grisenche, Val di Rhêmes, Val Savarenche, Valnontey, Valle di Cogne, Valle Soana, and Valle di Locana (also known as the Valle dell’Orco).
Principal peaks:
Gran Paradiso (4061m), La Grivola (3969m), La Grande Casse (3855m), Mont Pourri (3779m), Herbetet (3778m), Pointe de Charbonnel (3752m), La Grande Motte (3653m)
Centres:
Pralognan-la-Vanoise, Val d’Isère and Bonneval-sur-Arc are, perhaps, the most useful in the French Graians, while Cogne is a small resort well-placed for walks in the shadow of the highest peaks in the Gran Paradiso National Park. Rhêmes Notre-Dame and Valnontey are even smaller and with limited accommodation, but with fine walking country close at hand.
Huts:
In excess of 60 huts or bivouacs cover the range, with 42 alone within the area of the Vanoise National Park, and more than 20 in the Eastern Graians. Most huts belong to the French or Italian Alpine Clubs, or to the National Park authorities.
Access:
The
