glaciers are shrinking rapidly and over the last 50 years 40% of the total surface area – equivalent to 20 sq km – has been lost (21% alone over the period 1991–2003).
History
Before World War I, east of Switzerland the border between Italy and the Austro-Hungarian Empire extended as far south as Lake Garda and Trento. In 1915, after signing a secret treaty with the Triple Entente of the UK, France and Russia, Italy entered WWI, declaring war on its former ally and neighbour and opening a new, urgently needed front. The fledgling Kingdom (which came into existence in 1860) had been promised the extension of its border north to the Brenner Pass as well as Istria. Troops were sent to dig in along the northeastern Italian Alps, high-altitude mountains beset with glaciers and snowed in for five months of the year. Vast labyrinths of ice tunnels spelled protection – along with disconcerting creaking as the glacier moved and sub-zero temperatures prevailed. As things turned out, there was relatively little action; however, the harsh conditions and avalanches caused shocking loss of life. When the war ended with the 1918 Treaty of Versailles the Südtirol (South Tyrol) became Italy’s Alto Adige.
Italian WWI observatory on the Filone dei Möt ridge (Walk 25)
Many of the old mule tracks and military supply roads form the basis for today’s walking routes. In this guidebook Walks 11–14, 19, 20, 23–26 and 29 follow such routes or visit WWI sites, poignant places that testify to the folly of man. Nowadays the magnificent landscapes can be enjoyed in the peace of a united Europe.
Nomenclature
The Stelvio National Park stretches over the Italian regions of Südtirol, Trentino and Lombardia. In the first, the German language is dominant (spoken by 80% of the inhabitants) and although all the place names were translated into Italian after 1918, in this guide the original German names have been given preference, as they are generally more meaningful in situ (the Italian version is provided when mentioned the first time). Although all road and place signs are bilingual, it can be a bit confusing: for instance, the famous road pass known as Stilfser Joch (or Stilfserjoch) in German is the Passo dello Stelvio for the Italians. Refuges changed hands postwar, spawning a gallery of double names such as Düsseldorferhütte–Rifugio Serristori.
Plants and flowers
Thanks to the variety of terrains and habitats it encompasses – from low-lying meadows through woods and scrub to high-altitude rock and icescapes – the Stelvio offers an incredible range of alpine plant life and some interesting examples of adaptation to harsh environments.
The vast forests cloaking mid-altitude slopes are mostly conifer, dominated by the Arolla pine. This relies on the industrious nutcracker for its survival, as the voracious – and forgetful – bird hoards kernels in secluded rock crannies where the trees sprout and grow. Another coniferous tree seen throughout the park is the larch, which has lacy fronds; it is the only conifer to lose its needles in autumn. Its common companions are bushes of miniature rhododendrons or alpenrose with pink blooms, a delight in July. Scree slopes, on the other hand, are colonised by the hardy dwarf mountain pine, with springy branches that trap the snow.
1) Autumn gentian; 2) Gorgeous tiny gentians; 3) Leopard’s bane
Seemingly barren rock surfaces host myriad coloured lichen, which prepare the surface for hardy cushion plants such as the efficient ‘rock breaker’ saxifrage, with penetrating roots and tiny delicate blooms. Among the first flowers to appear on the edge of the snow line is the dainty fringed blue-violet alpine snowbell. The heat it releases as it breaks down carbohydrates actually melts the snow. Another early bloom is the perfumed sticky primrose, with petite clusters of deep purple. A lover of siliceous scree, the white or rarer pink glacier crowfoot grows close to glaciers, hence its name. The leaf cells contain a rich fluid that acts as an antifreeze.
Elsewhere, stony grasslands with calcareous soil (from limestone or dolomite) are ideal for delicate, sweet-scented yellow Rhaetian poppies. Often found growing nearby are white star-shaped edelweiss, their leaves equipped with fine felt-like hairs which trap heat. Rocky terrain is also the home of the gentian, which comes as a gorgeous blue trumpet or tiny iridescent stars; there is also a showy yellow-spotted type and delicate mauve varieties in autumn. Eye-catching alpine moon daisies are a common sight on rock-strewn slopes, which they share with clumps of golden leopard’s bane and spidery creeping avens. Common alongside marshy lakes is fluffy white cotton grass, while purple or white insectivorous butterwort is found in damp places, often near streams. Pasture slopes and alpine meadows straight out of The Sound of Music are dotted with exquisite wine-red martagon lilies, delicate columbines and the tiny triangular-headed black vanilla orchids, which smell of cocoa. Flower picking is of course strictly forbidden.
A valuable aid to identification is Alpine Flowers of Britain and Europe by C Grey-Wilson and M Blamey (Collins: 2nd edition, 2001); sadly, this is now out of print but is occasionally available second hand. The Rezia Alpine Botanical Garden in Bormio has labelled species and is open in summer.
Wildlife
Many birds and animals that live at high altitudes have developed thick furry coats and plumage which even cover their legs and the contours of their beaks. Small air bubbles captured between the hairs or feathers can generate a layer of insulation that helps reduce heat loss.
Majestic ibex dwell happily throughout the Stelvio
One of the easiest animals for walkers to see is the alpine marmot. These furry beaver-like creatures live in burrow colonies on grass-rock terrain and hibernate from October to April. In summer they forage for sugary wildflowers, dashing back to safety when warned of danger by the shrill cry of a sentry. The widespread conifer woods provide shelter for roe deer and stately red deer, shy creatures best seen at dusk. They often leave hoof prints in the mud. Less intimidated by human presence are the magnificent ibex, which sport sturdy grooved horns – in males these can grow as long as 1m. Their hooves have a fold in the skin which allows them to grip the rocks. Reintroduced back in the 1960s, they happily dwell throughout the Stelvio. The highest mountain dweller of the ruminants is the fleet-footed chamois. A mountain goat with short curved horns like crochet hooks, it can be seen in herds clambering nimbly on impossibly steep cliffs.
Alpine marmots colonise the grass-rock terrain
Sightings of the brown bear have increased significantly in the area over the last few years. They wander into the Stelvio from neighbouring alpine regions in search of food, often causing alarm in villages where people are no longer used to their presence. To date, however, there is no evidence they have actually taken up residence in the park.
The common viper has a distinct diamond pattern on its back
There is a fair chance you may encounter a viper on paths, as these cold-blooded reptiles need to sun themselves. With a light grey-brown body and triangular head, the snakes grow to around 70–80cm long and can be distinguished by the elegant markings on their back: diamond-patterned in the case of the common viper (Vipera berus) or dark streaks for the rarer asp viper (Vipera aspis). They live on small rodents, which they swallow whole and take time digesting. Timid creatures, they will flee if surprised and only attack out of self-defence, so give them time to slither away as they will probably be lethargic. While their bite does contain venom, this is rarely
