and sausage served with bread. In the Trentino valleys Casolet is a guarantee of a smooth, tasty cow’s cheese made using a traditional technique. Poina is a sort of ricotta (a non-lumpy version of cottage cheese), a creamy fresh spread produced with whey and either smeared on bread with miele (honey), or melted over hot polenta (cornmeal). Another version is Asni, which has garlic, salt and pepper added before being enfumegada (smoked) to keep it longer. There are plenty of cold sausages similar to salami. Valtellina is renowned for its Bresaola, dried beef flavoured with juniper berries and herbs and eaten in transparent slices. The area’s cheese production is prodigious – scumid is a sharp type and goat’s cheese (formaggio di capra) is common, both fresh as well as compact, pungent and mature. Sciatt (literally ‘toad’ in dialect) are delicious cheese-filled fritters made with grappa-flavoured batter.
Of the vast choice of meats, spicy goulash stew and stinco or roast pork shank are dishes to look forward to.
Kaiserschmarrn, a Südtirol speciality
On the sweet front, in the Trentino valleys look out for carrot cakes (torta di carote) or the variously spelled torta di fregoloti, a delectable lumpy shortbread made with chopped almonds. In the Südtirol go for either Kaiserschmarrn, a concoction of sliced pancake with dried fruit and redcurrant jelly, or the ubiquitous Apfelstrudel (sliced apple enveloped in thin filo-like pastry) sold in every bakery, pastry shop and café.
As regards liquid refreshment, homemade cordials may be on offer such as Holunder (elderflower) or even alpenrose. There is a range of high-quality wines – all reds – from the valleys surrounding the Stelvio Park: Lagrein and Blauburgunder from the Bozen basin, Teroldego and Schiava from the Trentino valleys, and fragrant Sassella and Inferno from Valtellina.
Coffee comes in classical Italian style with short black espresso, milky frothy cappuccino or less concentrated caffé latte.
Most villages and farms still have their age-old drinking fountains. Tap water (acqua da rubinetto) is always safe to drink (potabile means drinkable) and can be requested in cafés and restaurants instead of the bottled mineral water that causes so much unnecessary pollution as it is transported back and forth across Europe.
What to take
Good quality waterproof boots with ankle support and non-slip soles, preferably not brand new unless you plan to protect your feet with sticking plaster. Trainers are inadequate for alpine paths.
A comfortable medium-sized rucksack (max 20 litres capacity), large enough to contain food, drink and necessities for a full day out.
Rain gear – a waterproof jacket, trousers and rucksack cover are ideal, or a full-length poncho; a folding umbrella is handy for walkers who wear glasses.
Binoculars for watching birds and animals, and a camera.
A basic first aid kit including sticking plasters.
Maps, compass and altimeter.
A whistle and headlamp or torch for attracting attention in emergencies.
Sun hat, glasses and high-factor suncream; remember that for every 1000m of ascent, the intensity of the sun’s UV rays increases by 10%, and many walks in this guidebook are above the tree line.
A range of layered clothing to cater for conditions ranging from fiery sun through to lashing rain and storms, and occasionally snow.
Lightweight telescopic trekking poles are handy for descending steep slopes and easing the weight of a rucksack off knees and back.
A full day’s supply of water. At some huts the water may be labelled non potabile (undrinkable) if supplies come from snow-melt. Check with the staff if in doubt.
Although food is available at huts on the majority of walks described here, it is best not to rely on them – always be self-sufficient and carry generous amounts of your own. Bad weather, minor accidents and all manner of unforeseen factors could hold you up on the track, and that extra biscuit or energy bar could become crucial.
Mineral salt tablets are helpful in combating salt depletion and dehydration caused by profuse sweating; unexplained prolonged fatigue and symptoms similar to heatstroke indicate a problem.
Maps
The Stelvio National Park has an excellent network of paths, each marked with frequently placed red/white paint stripes on prominent fence posts, tree trunks and rocks, and complete with its own distinguishing number. Note that path numbers were recently changed across the park in line with a nationwide campaign to standardise waymarking. The old faded numbers are still visible on the ground in places, although new ones appear on signposts and updated editions of maps so there should be no cause for confusion.
Waymarking on a tree trunk
Sketch maps are provided in this guidebook showing the layout of the walk, with essential landmarks. Limitations of space make it impossible to include full details – essential in an emergency – so it is imperative that walkers obtain a commercial map. The Tabacco ‘carta topografica per escursionisti’ 1:25,000 scale series is one of the clearest on the market (www.tabaccoeditrice.com). These maps use a continuous red line for a wide track, while a broken red line indicates a marked path of average difficulty. Red dots denote routes that are exposed, difficult or faint, while red crosses denote aided sections such as cable or ladders as well as full-blooded via ferrata routes.
Signposts in Valfurva
The relevant sheets are:
N.08 Ortles-Cevedale Ortlergebiet for Walks 16–22, 25–31
N.045 Laces-Val Martello-Silandro for Walks 1–3, 32–38
N.048 Val di Peio-Val di Rabbi-Val di Sole for Walks 4–15
The maps are sold in shops throughout the Stelvio National Park as well as leading outdoor suppliers and booksellers worldwide. In the UK consult The Map Shop (www.themapshop.co.uk) or Stanfords (www.stanfords.co.uk) if you prefer to purchase them beforehand.
All the walks are covered by Tabacco, with the exception of Walks 23 and 24, for which you need the new Ingenua 1:25,000 scale maps. Parco Nazionale dello Stelvio Sheet 2 covers Walks 16–25 and 27–31. Order from www.cartoguide.it or purchase at Bormio.
Lastly, www.altavaltellina.eu also do 1:25,000 maps at a cheap €1, although the graphics are not always clear and route difficulty is not shown.
Kompass also has a good range of walking maps that cover the Stelvio (www.kompass-italia.it).
A note on place names: in the Südtirol region of Italy they are bilingual – German and Italian – on maps, signposts and refuges. Both
