The sky seems enormous here, especially on a bright, early summer’s day, and the sea beyond the shingle almost endless. Apart from the gleeful cries of children playing on the beach, the aural landscape is one of soughing waves and the gentle scrape of stones, a few mewing gulls and the piping of oystercatchers. Less than a mile inland, both scenery and soundscape are markedly different – vast expanses of heather, warbling blackcaps in the bushes, and a skylark clattering on high; the warm air is redolent with the coconut scent of yellow gorse that seems to be everywhere. This is the Suffolk coast, and it seems hard to imagine that somewhere quite so tranquil is just a couple of hours’ drive away from London.
The big skies, clean air and wide open scenery of the Suffolk coast has long attracted visitors – holiday makers certainly, but also writers, artists and musicians. The Suffolk coast’s association with the creative arts is longstanding, and its attraction is immediately obvious – close enough to the urban centres of southern England for a relatively easy commute, yet with sufficient unspoiled backwater charm for creativity to flourish.
It is not hard to see the appeal – east of the A12, the trunk road that more or less carves off this section of the East Anglian coast, there is a distinct impression that many of the excesses of modern life have passed the region by. The small towns and villages that punctuate the coastline and immediate hinterland are by and large quiet, unspoiled places that, while developed as low-key resorts in recent years, still refect the maritime heritage for which this coast was famous before coastal erosion took its toll.
The county of Suffolk lies at the heart of East Anglia, in eastern England, sandwiched between the counties of Norfolk to the north, Essex to the south and Cambridgeshire to the west. The county town is Ipswich, by far the biggest urban centre in the county, while other important towns include Bury St Edmunds to the west and Lowestoft to the north. Much of the county is dominated by agriculture, especially arable farming, but the coastal region featured in this book has a wider diversity of scenery – with reedbeds, heath, saltmarsh, shingle beaches, estuaries and even cliffs all contributing to the variety. There is also woodland, both remnants of ancient deciduous forests and large modern plantations. Such a variety of landscapes means a wealth of wildlife habitat, and so it is little wonder that the area is home to many scarce species of bird, plant and insect.
This region can be broadly divided into three types of landscape – coast, estuary and heathland, or Sandlings, as they are locally known – and the three long-distance walks described in this guide are each focused on one of these landscape types. All three have plenty to offer visitors in terms of scenery, wildlife and historic interest, and the footpaths, bridleways and quiet lanes found here make for excellent walking.three long-distance walks described in this guide are each focused on one of these landscape types. All three have plenty to offer visitors in terms of scenery, wildlife and historic interest, and the footpaths, bridleways and quiet lanes found here make for excellent walking.
Sandlings heath and conifer plantations at dunwich Forest (SW, Stage 7)
Almost all the walks in this guide fall within the boundaries of the Suffolk Coast & Heaths Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB), which stretches south from Kessingland in the north of the county to the Stour estuary in the south. The whole area – both coast and heaths – is now one of 46 Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty in England, Wales and Northern Ireland, having received AONB status in 1970, a designation that recognises, and protects, the area’s unique landscape.
THE AONB
The Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB was created in March 1970, has a population of roughly 23,500 within its border, and covers 403km2 of coastal Suffolk from the Stour estuary at the eastern fringe of Ipswich to Kessingland in the north. This AONB is recognised as one of the most important areas for wildlife in the UK and boasts three National Nature Reserves, the flagship RSPB reserve at Minsmere, several SSSI (Sites of Special Scientific Interest) and wetland sites of national and international importance.
As with any AONB, a balance needs to be struck between the need for conservation of its unique landscape features and its role as an area of both agricultural and recreational use. The Suffolk Coast & Heaths Partnership that manages activities within the AONB is made up of 26 organisations that include local councils and wildlife groups; farming, business, tourism and historical interests; and the Suffolk Coast & Heaths AONB Team, based at Melton, just outside Woodbridge, which acts as a champion for the AONB, coordinating the work of the Partnership and promoting the area’s conservation.
Three Long-Distance Walks
The three long-distance walks described in this guide are the Suffolk Coast Path, the Stour and Orwell Walk and the Sandlings Walk. The first two follow the coast as closely as possible, while the third follows an alternative route through the sandy heaths that lie a little way inland.
The Suffolk Coast Path (sometimes referred to as the Suffolk Coast and Heaths Path) and the Stour and Orwell Walk are connected at Felixstowe to provide about 100 miles (160km) of continuous, largely coastal walking – although there are also some inland stretches that are needed to detour around the many estuaries that are a marked feature of this coastline. When combined with these, the Sandlings Walk, which meanders mostly inland for nearly 60 miles (96km) between Ipswich and Southwold, offers the possibility of a complete circular tour of the Suffolk coastal region for those with sufficient curiosity, time and energy. All three walks have their merits, and all can easily be completed in manageable stages or even cherry-picked as day walks for sections that hold particular appeal.
Fingerpost and footpath through reedbeds close to Southwold (SCP, Stage 3)
None of the routes described in this book is especially demanding – all are suitable for newcomers to long-distance walking and all can be done by anyone with a reasonable level of fitness. All the routes are clearly way-marked and involve easy walking on the flat, although some stretches along shingle and sand will inevitably be more tiring, as will muddy paths after wet weather. Facilities are plentiful, and the routes are described in convenient stages with accommodation usually available nearby at the end of the day.
The Suffolk Coast Path
The Suffolk Coast Path stretches along the coast between Lowestoft in the north and Landguard Fort, close to Felixstowe, in the south, a total distance of 55–60 miles (89–97km), depending on whether beach walking or inland options are followed. The path can be walked in either direction, but has been described north to south here in order to link up with a south to north traverse of the Sandlings Walk. With the exception of the first stage from Lowestoft, this walk lies completely within the Suffolk Coast and Heaths AONB and mostly stays close to the coast. However, coastal erosion in recent years, and the threat of further damage in the future, has necessitated some minor inland diversions in places.
Although the Suffolk Coast Path can be walked at any time of year, the last stage (Stage 8) requires the use of a river ferry between Bawdsey and Felixstowe Ferry, which operates daily only between May and September, and at weekends from Easter weekend to May, and also in October. The optional Orford Loop section on this route (see Stage 6) also makes use of a ferry, between Orford and Butley, which again is seasonal, although this can be avoided by making a longer detour.
The Suffolk Coast Path is described here in eight convenient stages, some of which can be combined, according to fitness levels and time available. Not far from the finish point there is a connecting link to the Stour and Orwell Walk, which makes a very natural extension for those wishing to walk further. To walk the complete Suffolk Coast Path route will probably take the average walker between five and seven days – though
