Suffolk Coast and Heath Walks. Laurence Mitchell
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Lowestoft, at the northern end of the Suffolk Coast Path, is Britain’s most easterly town (SCP, Stage 1)
Small towns such as Southwold and Aldeburgh on the Suffolk Coast Path have reasonable bus connections to the walks’ start and end points, but smaller places such as Dunwich, Chillesford, Snape and Chelmondiston have only infrequent bus services, and timetables need to be studied carefully in order to make the most of connections at the beginning and end of each stage.
Connecting Communites (0345 606 6171) is a transport service to help people travel around Suffolk who might not have access to a regular bus service. Some local bus services, including the Suffolk Links Wilford Coastal Accessible Transport Service (www.cats-paws.co.uk; 0845 604 1802) between Woodbridge and the coast, are demand responsive services that need to be booked in advance the day before. The website www.suffolkonboard.com is a helpful tool for finding rural bus services in Suffolk. Another very useful facility for planning purposes is Traveline East Anglia (www.travelineeastanglia.org.uk; 0871 200 2233), which has links to timetables and route maps on its website.
By car, the Suffolk coast is easily reached from the rest of the country by taking the A12 between Ipswich and Lowestoft and turning off for the coast at the appropriate point. There are generally adequate car-parking facilities along the Suffolk coast, although the town car parks at Southwold and Aldeburgh can sometimes be full in high season.
Ferries
Several stages of the walks involve the use of ferries – timetables should be checked beforehand, as the ferries are seasonal and do not run year-round.
On the Suffolk Coast Path the extension to the alternative Orford Loop (see Stage 6) makes use of the Butley rowing-boat ferry, which runs from Easter Saturday to the end of October. Stage 8 of the Suffolk Coast Path requires the use of the Deben ferry across the river from Bawdsey Quay to Felixstowe Ferry. It carries foot passengers and bicycles and usually operates daily between May and September from 10am to 6pm, and at weekends from Easter weekend to May and also in October from 10am to 5pm (£2 single and £3 return at the time of writing). At other times there may be a river taxi service (07709 411511 – ferryman, or 01394 282173 – boatyard).
The Landguard Fort to Harwich and Shotley Gate ferry service is used on the alternative shorter version (Stages 4 and 5 only) of the Stour and Orwell Walk. This runs 9.30am–5.30pm every day from 25 March to 30 September; it also runs on sunny days in October and between 26 December and 1 January (www.harwichharbourferry.com; 07919 911440). The early and late sailings need to be pre-booked. It costs £5 for adults.
Southwold Pier, Britain’s only 21st-century pier, was opened in 2001 (SCP, Stage 2)
When to Go
The busiest months on the Suffolk coast are July and August, especially during the English school holiday period. Services and amenities can become stretched at this time, especially in popular resorts such as Southwold and Aldeburgh. Overall, probably the most pleasant months to walk are May, June and September, although April and October both have their merits if the weather is good. Late spring is the best time to see wild flowers, and September is the ideal month for migrating birds, although late April and May are probably better for seeing (and hearing) migrant warblers including nightingales. Characteristic shingle flora such as sea pea and yellow-horned poppy are at their flowering peak in July and August.
For walkers hiking the entire length of the Suffolk Coast Path, the main seasonal limitation is the need to use the ferry service between Bawdsey and Felixstowe (Stage 8). This operates only at Easter weekend, and then between May and October. At other times of the year it is necessary to make a very long detour around the River Deben estuary. Similarly, anyone wishing to make use of the Butley ferry on the Orford Loop alternative (Stage 6 of the Suffolk Coast Path) must undertake this section between Easter and the end of September, when the ferry is running.
None of the routes in this book is so long that it makes the limited daylight hours of winter an issue. Walking coastal Suffolk in winter has, in fact, its own, perhaps rather bleak, charm. The Stour and Orwell Walk especially is rewarding during the winter months, as both estuaries are home to large numbers of wildfowl and waders at this time of year.
What to Take
Suffolk coastal weather is generally mild, with little snow in winter and a cooling breeze in summer. As with any route, walkers should check weather forecasts before setting out to determine whether wet-weather clothing is required for that day. Substantial boots and appropriate clothing should be worn, and a small, comfortable day-pack containing additional clothing, waterproofs, map, food, drink and a camera should be carried.
In summer, insect repellent is a good idea as midges may be a nuisance along some stretches of coastline; mosquitoes can also be a minor problem in some areas of woodland. On brighter days sun cream may be necessary, as walkers are often unaware of getting burned because of the cooling effect of a sea breeze. A sun hat is also advisable.
Food and Accommodation
Food is often available at pubs and cafés close to the start and end points of many walk stages, although, as there are one or two exceptions to the rule, it is always a good idea to carry a supply of food and drink and ‘emergency rations’ in case of delay or exceptional circumstances. Places where refreshments are available are listed in the box at the start of each walk stage.
Fishing boats and bathers on the beach at Dunwich (SCP, Stage 4)
For those wishing to walk these routes in their entirety, stopping overnight along the way, there is plenty of accommodation available at the larger towns such as Lowestoft, Ipswich, Woodbridge and Felixstowe, as well as a good number of hotels and B&Bs at resorts including Southwold, Walberswick and Aldeburgh, although these tend to be in great demand in high summer and it is wise to book well ahead. The smaller villages, where some stages start or finish, tend to have far less choice on offer – suggestions are given in the box at the start of each stage. Most of the tourist information centres listed in Appendix B can help find accommodation and assist with booking, as well as provide timetables of local transport.
Waymarks and Access
All the routes are generally well signed and clearly waymarked. The Suffolk Coast Path is marked with a yellow arrow on a blue disc. The alternative route in Stages 6–7, the Orford Loop, is signed ‘Suffolk Coast Path: Orford Loop’, and the Butley ferry variation of the Loop is signed ‘Suffolk Coast Path: Orford Loop via Ferry’. The Stour and Orwell Walk is waymarked with a yellow arrow on a grey disc and the legend ‘Stour and Orwell Walk’. The Suffolk Coast Path/Stour and Orwell Walk Link is waymarked with a yellow arrow on a purple disc and the legend ‘Suffolk Coast Path/Stour and Orwell Walk Link’. The Sandlings Walk is marked with a rectangular plaque that has an arrow and a stylised nightjar symbol. Some older signposts have the same nightjar symbol etched into the wood. The text indicates where the way is unclear or signs may be hard to spot.
Safety