river), the level of water fluctuating greatly between seasons. In summer large sandbanks appear, while in winter riverside meadows are flooded. The river is fed by a number of important tributaries including the Allier, Cher, Indre and Vienne (all of which rise in the Massif Central) and the Loir, Sarthe and Maine which drain the hills of Normandy.
Loire Gorge natural park seen from Chambles (Stage 5)
Wildlife
While a number of small mammals (including rabbits, hares, red squirrels, voles, water rats and weasels) may be seen scuttling across the track, this is not an area inhabited by wild animals – with two exceptions. Large forests close to the river were once reserved for royal hunting parties seeking bears, wolves, wild boar and deer. Bears and wolves were wiped out long ago, but deer and boar are still present.
There is a wide range of birdlife. White swans, geese and many varieties of ducks inhabit the river and its banks. Cruising above, raptors, particularly buzzards and kites, are frequently seen hunting small mammals. Birds that live by fishing include cormorants, noticeable when perched on rocks with their wings spread out to dry, and grey herons, which can be seen standing in shallow water waiting to strike or stalking purposefully along the banks. Egrets are commonly seen in fields where they often pick fleas off cattle. Seasonal sandbanks and islands in the Loire attract millions of migratory birds during summer months and some have become protected reserves.
Roe deer crossing the cycle track near Avaray (Stage 17)
Preparation
When to go
With the exception of Stage 1 in the Massif Central, where snow can remain on the ground until late April, the route is generally cycleable from April to October. If the source is inaccessible, an alternative would be to start from the beginning of Stage 3 in Le Puy-en-Velay, which can be reached directly by train.
How long will it take?
The route has been broken into 26 stages, averaging 40km per stage. A fit cyclist, cycling an average of 80km/day should be able to complete the route in under a fortnight. Travelling at a gentler pace of 50km/day and allowing time for sightseeing, cycling the Loire to the Atlantic coast would take three weeks. There are many places to stay along the route, making it is easy to tailor daily distances to your requirements.
What kind of cycle is suitable?
Most of the route is on asphalt cycle tracks or alongside quiet country roads. However, there are some stretches with gravel surfaces and although these are invariably well graded, posing no problems for most kinds of cycle, cycling the Loire is not recommended for narrow-tyred racing cycles. The most suitable type of cycle is either a touring cycle or a hybrid (a lightweight but strong cross between a touring cycle and a mountain bike with at least 21 gears). There is no advantage in using a mountain bike. Front suspension is beneficial as it absorbs much of the vibration. Straight handlebars, with bar-ends enabling you to vary your position regularly, are recommended. Make sure your cycle is serviced and lubricated before you start – particularly the brakes, gears and chain.
As important as the cycle is your choice of tyres. Slick road tyres are not suitable and knobbly mountain bike tyres not necessary. What you need is something in-between with good tread and a slightly wider profile than you would use for everyday cycling at home. To reduce the chance of punctures, choose tyres with puncture-resistant armouring, such as a Kevlar™ band.
Fully equipped cycle and free air for cyclists in Savonnières (Stage 20)
Getting there and back
By rail
The start of the route on the slopes of Gerbier de Jonc is not directly accessible by public transport. There are railway stations east of the start at Livron in the Rhone Valley (82km away with 1331m ascent) and west of the start at Langogne (51km with 825m ascent). In addition there is a narrow gauge line that runs from Tournon in the Rhone Valley to Lamastre, from where it is 51km to the start with 1288m ascent. Although this is nearer to the start than Livron, financial problems in recent years have curtailed most services on this line and it no longer provides a suitable alternative.
All these options require long rides with substantial amounts of ascent. The average cyclist should set aside a day to reach Gerbier de Jonc from any of these points. There is, however, a bus service from Valence bus station in the Rhone Valley that runs up to Le Cheylard more than halfway along the route from Livron. From Le Cheylard it is 31km to the start with 989m ascent. Buses on route 12 that carry cycles run three times daily (mid-morning, early afternoon and late afternoon) Monday to Saturday from 1 April until 30 November, with a journey time of 90 minutes. There is one Sunday journey (early evening). Details can be found at www.lesept.fr; for booking tel +33 4 75 29 11 15. The routes to the source from Le Cheylard and Langogne are described in detail in the Prologue.
Valence Ville station is on the old Rhone Valley main line between Lyon and Marseille and is served by hourly trains from Lyon Part Dieu or every two hours from Marseille St Charles. Note that Valence TGV station is 10km NE of Valence, with a connecting service linking it to Valence Ville. Langogne is served by trains between Clermont-Ferrand and Nîmes, but there are only three services per day on this line.
If travelling from the UK, you can take your cycle on Eurostar from London St Pancras (not Ebbsfleet nor Ashford) to Paris (Gare du Nord). Trains between London and Paris run hourly throughout the day, taking less than two and a half hours. Cycles booked in advance travel in dedicated cycle spaces in the baggage compartment of the same train as you. Bookings, which cost £30 single, can be made through Eurostar baggage (tel 0344 822 5822). Cycles must be checked in at St Pancras Eurostar luggage office (beside the bus drop-off point) at least 40 minutes before departure. There is no requirement to package or dismantle your cycle. More information can be found at www.eurostar.com. Unfortunately the daily direct Eurostar service to Lyon, Valence and Marseille does not carry cycles.
CROSSING PARIS
After arrival in Paris you need to cycle from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon following a series of grands boulevards (wide avenues) on an almost straight 4km route. Go ahead opposite the main entrance to Gare du Nord along semi-pedestrianised Bvd de Denain. At the end turn L (Bvd de Magenta) and follow this to reach Place de la République. Continue round this square and leave on the opposite side by Bvd du Temple, becoming Bvd des Filles du Calvaire then Bvd Beaumarchais, to reach Place de la Bastille. Bear L (passing memorial column to 1830 revolution) and R (passing Opéra Bastille L) into Rue de Lyon, to reach Gare de Lyon station.
TGV Sud-Est high-speed trains run from Paris (Gare de Lyon) to Lyon and on to Marseille. Most trains on this route, particularly those serving Marseille, do not carry cycles; however, there are a few services each day which call at Lyon, Valence and Avignon that have a limited amount of cycle accommodation with mandatory reservation (€10). Details can be found and bookings made at the SNCF (French Railways) website, www.voyages-sncf.com
Provision of cycle space on European trains is steadily increasing, and up-to-date information on travelling by train with a bicycle can be found at a website dedicated to worldwide rail travel, ‘The man in seat 61’: www.seat61.com
