pastry and almond paste tart). A long history of sugar refining and biscuit making has given Nantes such specialities as berlingot Nantais (multi-coloured pyramid-shaped sugar sweets), shortbreads and Petit Beurre biscuits.
What to drink
The lower and middle Loire Valley hosts a string of wine-producing districts, many producing VDQS and good vin de pays wines, but there are some well-known appellations. Most wine is white but there are some areas producing non-appellation soft red wines from gamay or pinot noir grapes. There is a wide contrast in styles, with dry (often very dry) whites being produced in the east and west while sweeter whites, rosés and softer reds are produced in the central part between Orléans and Angers.
The first appellations encountered are Pouilly and Sancerre, two villages that face each other across the middle Loire (Stage12). Here, sauvignon blanc grapes are used to produce flinty dry white wines recommended to be drunk with shellfish. Further downriver between Amboise and Tours are the Touraine appellation districts of Vouvray and Montlouis (Stage 19) where chenin blanc grapes produce dry, sweet and sparkling white wines. In the districts of Chinon and Bourgueil (Stage 21), cabernet franc grapes are used to make soft Beaujolais-style red wine, usually served chilled. Slightly downriver, Saumur (Stage 21) is a light and fruity red. Anjou wine comes from an area just south of Angers (Stage 23). Here again chenin blanc grapes produce mostly sweet white wine, although the district is best known for rosé wine and vin gris (white wine made from red grapes) using cabernet franc grapes. The largest of the Loire’s wine-producing appellations is that of Muscadet between Ancenis and Nantes (Stages 24–26). Muscadet is the name of a grape, unique to this area, which produces a very dry white wine with low acidity, perfect for serving with fish or seafood.
Particular apéritifs and digestifs from the Loire include yellow gentiane from Auvergne and green verveine du Velay made near Le Puy from verbena. The blackcurrant liqueur Crème de Cassis comes from Burgundy, while orange-flavoured Cointreau is distilled near Angers (Stage 22). Chambord is a blackberry and raspberry liqueur produced in the Loire Valley since 1982, based upon a favourite drink of Louis XIV.
The green verbena-flavoured verveine du Velay liqueur is made in Le Puy-en-Velay
Although central France is predominantly a wine-drinking region, beer (bière) is widely consumed. Draught beer (une pression) is usually available in two main styles: blonde (European style lager) or blanche (partly cloudy wheat beer).
All the usual soft drinks (colas, lemonade, fruit juices, mineral waters) are widely available. In the Auvergne, mineral water naturally filtered through the volcanic rocks of the Massif Central is a major industry with well-known brands including Badoit, Volvic and Vichy.
Amenities and services
Grocery shops
All cities, towns and larger villages passed through have grocery stores, often supermarkets, and most have pharmacies. Almost every village has a boulangerie (bakery) that is open from early morning and bakes fresh bread several times a day. Shop opening hours vary and in southern France many shops close in the afternoon between 1300 and 1600.
Cycle shops
The route is well provided with cycle shops, most with repair facilities. Locations are listed in the stage descriptions, although this is not exhaustive. Many cycle shops will adjust brakes and gears, or lubricate your chain, while you wait, often not seeking reimbursement for minor repairs. Touring cyclists should not abuse this generosity and always offer to pay, even if this is refused.
Currency and banks
France switched from French francs to €uros in 2002. Almost every town has a bank and most have ATM machines which enable you to make transactions in English. However, very few offer over-the-counter currency exchange. In major cities like Orléans, Tours and Nantes, there are commercial exchange bureaux, but in other locations the only way to obtain currency is to use ATM machines to withdraw cash from your personal account. Contact your bank to activate your bank card for use in Europe, or put cash on a travel card for use abroad.
Telephone and internet
The whole route has mobile phone coverage. Contact your network provider to ensure your phone is enabled for foreign use with the optimum price package. The international dialling code from the UK (+44) to France is +33.
Almost all hotels, guest houses and hostels and many restaurants make internet access available to guests, usually free of charge.
Electricity
Voltage is 220v, 50HzAC. Plugs are standard European two-pin round.
What to take
Clothing and personal items
Even though the route is predominantly downhill, weight should be kept to a minimum. You will need clothes for cycling (shoes, socks, shorts/trousers, shirt, fleece, waterproofs) and clothes for evenings and days off. The best maxim is two of each: ‘one to wear, one to wash’. Time of year makes a difference as you need more and warmer clothing in April/May and September/October. All of this clothing should be washable en route, and a small tube or bottle of travel wash is useful. A sun hat and sunglasses are essential, while gloves and a woolly hat are advisable except in high summer.
In addition to your usual toiletries you will need sun cream and lip salve. You should take a simple first-aid kit. If staying in hostels you will need a towel and torch (your cycle light should suffice).
Cycle equipment
Everything you take needs to be carried on your cycle. If overnighting in accommodation, a pair of rear panniers should be sufficient to carry all your clothing and equipment, although if camping, you may also need front panniers. Panniers should be 100% watertight. If in doubt, pack everything inside a strong polythene lining bag. Rubble bags, obtainable from builders’ merchants, are ideal for this purpose. A bar-bag is a useful way of carrying items you need to access quickly such as maps, sunglasses, camera, spare tubes, puncture kit and tools. A transparent map case attached to the top of your bar-bag is an ideal way of displaying maps and guidebook.
Your cycle should be fitted with mudguards and bell, and be capable of carrying water bottles, pump and lights. Many cyclists fit an odometer to measure distances. A basic tool kit should consist of puncture repair kit, spanners, Allen keys, adjustable spanner, screwdriver, spoke key and chain repair tool. The only essential spares are two spare tubes. On a long cycle ride, sometimes on dusty tracks, your chain will need regular lubrication; you should either carry a can of spray-lube or make regular visits to cycle shops. A good strong lock is advisable.
Safety and emergencies
Weather
Stage 1 is exposed to mountain weather with winter snowfall that can remain on the ground until April. The rest of the route is in the cool temperate zone with warm summers, cool winters and year-round moderate rainfall which increases for the last few stages as you near the Atlantic.
Road safety
Throughout the route, cycling is on the right side of the road. If you have never cycled before on the right you will quickly adapt, but roundabouts may prove challenging. You are most prone to mistakes when setting off each morning. France is a very cycle-friendly country; drivers will normally give you plenty of space when overtaking and often wait behind patiently until space to pass is available.
