root.
Naturally the glaciers themselves provide abundant meltwater so the area is rich in water courses, spectacuar waterfalls and dramatic strings of lakes of all shapes and colours. In the 1920s this abundance of water began 16 to attract hydroelectric dam builders, who were given free rein on the southern flanks to provide Torino (Turin) with the power its industries needed. This led to a considerable number of large dams, conduits and power stations, accompanied by clusters of service buildings for maintenance staff.
Valleys and bases
A number of long steep-sided valleys push their way towards the heart of the Gran Paradiso, providing fortuitous access for visitors. Nearly all the valleys are inhabited and have good tourist facilities in the shape of accommodation (hotels, camping grounds and high altitude mountain rifugi- see Accommodation) and tourist information offices. What's more, they can all be reached by public bus (see Local Transport). Beginning in the north and the Valle d'Aosta, minor Valle di Champorcher turns in west from Hône-Bard, gaining height to reach Chardonney, where Alta Via 2 sets out.
Forking south at Aymavilles, close to the regional capital of Aosta, the most important of the valleys is undeniably the Vallon di Cogne and its well-kept settlements. A pasture basin is home to the former mining centre of Cogne, while the sister villages of Lillaz, Valnontey and Gimillan are located a few kilometres away. Tiny Valnontey is arguably the best placed, not far from the Tribolazione glacier and its crown of beautiful peaks. Vallon di Cogne is a key transit point for the Alta Via 2 and the starting point for Walks 1 to 9.
Further west, from Villeneuve, Valsavarenche runs southwards as far as Pont, gateway to the Gran Paradiso mountain itself. With a decent choice of hotels and camping grounds, it makes an excellent base for Walks 11, 12, 13, 15 and 16. Alta Via 2 crosses the valley at Eaux Rousses, another fine place to stay.
Forking off from Valsavarenche at lntrod is quieter Val di Rhêmes, the westernmost confine of the national park. Here the main settlement is Rhêmes-Notre-Dame (including the village of Bruil) which offers a full range of tourist facilities. Alta Via 2 crosses through here. Further up the valley a scattering of hamlets is dominated by the magnificent Granta Parei outcrop. Walks 10 and 14 to 17 can be followed from this valley.
Valgrisenche also leaves the Valle d'Aosta at Villeneuve and is populated with scattered farming hamlets such as Planaval (a staging point for Alta Via 2) and the main village called Valgrisenche. Glaciers occupy the valley head and Walks 17, 18 and 19 can be enjoyed here.
Two more worthwhile valleys are touched on in this northern Valle d'Aosta section. With its junction at Pré-St-Didier, life in Valle di La Thuile centres around the thriving winter ski resort of La Thuile. In summer it can serve as the departure point for the stage of Alta Via 2 which climbs to the magnificent Ruitor glacier.
Lastly we come to Val Veny, which turns SW soon after Courmayeur. It is the only valley with no permanent inhabitants, understandable in view of its location at the foot of the breathtaking spreads of glaciers that spill down from the Mont Blanc massif. The final stage of Alta Via 2 runs this way.
The southernmost Piemonte side of the Gran Paradiso has similarly good access and direct transport links with Torino. First to be encountered is narrow Valle Soana and the village of Ronco Canavese, probably the most suitable base for forays into the surrounding mountains, such as Walks 25 to 28.
The Valle dell'Orco winds its way west, with a fork at Rosone for Vallone di Piantonetto and Walk 24. Further along is the picturesque if diminutive village of Noasca for Walk 23. Soon we reach Ceresole Reale set on a lakeside, a well-served base for Walks 20 to 22. At the top of that valley, well above the dams is Col del Nivolet where the road ends. Here a couple of rifugi come in handy for Walks 12, 15, 16 and 20.
Information
The head office of the Parco Nazionale del Gran Paradiso is in Torino (Turin) (Via della Rocca 47, 10123 Torino www.pngp.it). Visitor centres that hold exhibitions on local themes and offer guided walks can be found at Ceresole Reale, Noasca and Ronco Canavese in the southern Piemonte section and Cogne, Chavaney and Dégioz in the northern Valle d'Aosta section. The fascinating Alpine Botanical Garden at Valnontey also doubles as an information point.
Useful tourism offices are in
Aosta Tel 0165 236627 www.lovevda.it. This website covers all the villages on the Valle d'Aosta side of the Gran Paradiso park.
Ceresole Reale Tel 0124 953186 www.turismoceresolereale.it
Champorcher Tel 0125 37134 www.valledichamporcher.it
Cogne Tel 0165 74040 www.cogne.org
Courmayeur Tel 0165 842060 www.courmayeurmontblanc.it
Dégioz Tel 0165 905816
Ivrea Tel 0125 618131 www.anfiteatromorenicoivrea.it
La Thuile Tel 0165 884179 www.lathuile.it
Locana Tel 0124 83121
Noasca Tel 0124 901001 www.comune.noasca.to.it
Pont, Valsavarenche Tel 0165 95304 (summer)
Rhêmes Notre Dame Tel 0165 936114
Rhêmes Saint Georges Tel 0165 907634>
Ronco Canavese Tel 0124 817377 (summer) www.vallesoana.it
Valgrisenche Tel 0165 97193
Valprato Soana Tel 0124 812908 (summer) www.vallesoana.it
Access
By air
The most convenient airport for this region is Torino's Caselle www.aeroportoditorino.it. It is well served by many companies from the UK and European countries. While the occasional coach does go direct to Aosta, regular city trains and buses convey passengers to the city centre and the main railway station, Torino Porta Nuova, for ongoing services.
Milano is also handy and has two airports www.sea-aeroportimilano.it, both well served by UK, European and international companies. Both Malpensa and Linate have direct trains to Milano Centrale station for links via Chivasso to the Valle d'Aosta or via Torino Porta Susa for the Pont Canavese railway – see below.
By car
Drivers have a good choice of itineraries, which are also spectacular: from France via the Mont Blanc tunnel or the Piccolo San Bernardo pass; from Switzerland via the Gran San Bernardo pass and tunnel. From the south, as well as main SS26, the A5 autostrada (motorway) leads via Aosta to Courmayeur. For the southern section you'll need SS460 from Torino via Cuorgné and on to Pont Canavese.
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