excellent general road map is the 1:200,000 ‘Piemonte e Valle d'Aosta’ map published by the Touring Club taliano (TCI) and widely available both in Italy and overseas.
As far as walking maps go, Blu Edizioni has done a good 1:50,000 version of the whole park; its sole drawback is that it does not cover the start and latter half of the Alta Via 2 as they are beyond the park confines.
L’Escursionista (www.lescursionista.it) and IGC (www.istitutogeograficocentrale.it) both produce an excellent series of 1:25,000 walking maps. Appropriate maps are listed in the information boxes at the start of each stage or walk.
Most of the above are on sale at bookshops and newspaper kiosks throughout the Gran Paradiso National Park and the Valle d'Aosta, as well as overseas map outlets and outdoor gear shops.
Note: Due to the region's history, the spelling of place names varies considerably on both signposts and maps and discrepancies are common; for instance a col may be referred to as either finestra in the Italian version or fenêtre in French. Moreover the Valle d'Aosta Regional Authority is currently working on re-introducing toponyms for both maps and signposts in the ancient patois. In the not-too-distant future these may well substitute what are currently widely recognised versions in Italian and French and undoubtedly cause confusion. Be aware of this possibility and be prepared to exercise a little linguistic elasticity when map reading! Path numbering is also subject to ongoing revision and there may well be minor discrepancies between the path numbers given in this guide and those on new signposts.
The sketch maps aim to give an idea of the location of the routes described, together with significant geographical features, but are not intended as substitutes for the commercial maps listed above. They are intended to help with orientation and pre-trip preparation. (See the sketch map legend on page 6 for an explanation of the symbols used.) Finally, an Italian-English glossary is provided as an appendix; it contains a wealth of terminology found on maps.
Accommodation
Everything from guesthouses, converted farms, cosy refuges, spartan sanctuaries and bivouac huts is available, not to mention campsites. Local options are listed in the individual walk descriptions. Whatever your accommodation, it is a good idea to settle your bill in the evening so as not to waste valuable time in the morning. Affittacamere is a B&B and an albergo is a hotel.
Rifugi
Rifugio Savoia (Walk 15)
A rifugio (rifugi is plural) is a manned mountain hut usually located in a scenic high altitude spot, providing hot meals and overnight accommodation during the summer. The majority are run by the Italian Alpine Club (Club Alpino Italiano or CAI) as well as local families and anyone is welcome to use the facilities. They come in a wide range of shapes and sizes, such as a converted hunting lodge, former electricity board building and an old farm.
Rifugio Miserin and the sanctuary (AV2 Stage 2)
The beauty of the refuge network is the flexibility it gives walkers and climbers. The atmosphere is generally friendly and helpful and the staff are a motley crew including students, assorted members of local families and alpine guides. They all share tasks, including unloading the precious supplies brought in by helicopter, jeep, mechanised cableway, horseback or even backpack. Due to the strict regu-ations, only refuges outside the park boundaries can use mechanised options.
As far as visitor facilities go, there may be a choice between a private room with fresh linen or a bunk bed in the dormitorio (dormitory) where blankets or a continental quilt are provided. A lightweight personal sleeping sheet (with or without a pillow case) is compulsory in CAI huts and recommended elsewhere. Likewise, a towel is essential as the majority of huts provide a doccia calda (hot shower). (You may need to ask for a gettone (token) to operate the shower and be warned that water flow is often timed.) In this book, all refuges have a hot shower unless mentioned otherwise.
CAI refuges offer discounted rates for its members and alpine clubs with reciprocal agreements. UK residents may wish to join the UK branch of the Austrian Alpine Club (http://aacuk.org.uk) if not the Italian Club (www.cai.it), both of which include rescue and emergency insurance cover.
Remember to change enough foreign currency before setting out on walks, as refuge staff cannot be expected to accept anything but euros in cash. Charges for bed and board were about €40-€50 a night at the time of writing, not including drinks. Credit cards are rarely accepted. Most large villages and towns have a cash point.
Mezza pensione or half board (meaning dinner, bed and breakfast) is commonly offered and usually an excellent deal. The huts all offer hot meals at both lunch and dinner. You may have the choice of a pasta dish or minestrone vegetable soup, followed by second courses of meat and various side dishes. Vegetarians will need to request special meals, which are not usually a problem and they will whip you up an omelette or cheese dish.
Regional culinary specialities may be on offer. Among those worth trying are: polenta concia, a delicious and filling thick cornmeal porridge mixed with cheese; delicate carbonata, meat stewed in red wine with spices; risotto alla valdostana, a rice dish with melted local cheeses such as fontina and toma. An interesting, if limited, array of wines comes from the few vineyards in the Valle d'Aosta, usually supplemented by the fuller-bodied (and less costly) Piemonte wines such as Barbera and Nebbiolo. Stronger stuff comes in the form of aromatic Genepì, known for its digestive properties and made from the flowers of the same name (and not to be confused with juniper). The grolla, a decorated covered wooden bow with multiple mouthpieces, may appear after dinner – filled with a memorable mixture of coffee, red wine, grappa, sugar and lemon. It is passed around for measured sips and so called the ‘cup of friendship’.
Local refuges with accommodation and guesthouses are listed alongside each walk description, complete with sleeping capacity and opening period. These dates will vary from year to year depending on local conditions, so, if in doubt, especially at the start or close of the season, do check by phoning the refuge itself or asking at the nearest tourist office. Generally speaking the summer season means mid-June to mid-September. Intrepid ski tourers will be pleased to know that many rifugi open in spring to accommodate them.
Summer advance bookings are only really necessary on July or August weekends and will only usually be held until 6pm. Should you change your route, do notify the refuge to cancel as expensive rescue operations (billed to you) might be set in motion when you don't show up. Guests should always sign the register and indicate their next destination (or tell hotel staff their planned route for the day) as it could help point rescuers in the right direction in a search.
In refuges, ‘lights out’ is 10pm-6am when the refuge generator is turned off, although breakfast may be served pre-dawn if the hut serves as a base for an important ascent. Walking boots, together with bulky ice and mountaineering gear, should be left on appropriate racks in the hallway and slippers are often provided. In line with Italian law, smoking is not allowed inside anywhere.
Bivacco Davito (Walk 26)
As well as the main premises, most refuges have a ricovero invernale, literally a ‘winter shelter’. Spartan but always open, they are intended primarily for emergency use when the refuge is closed, although
