Greek-style plain yogurt. Both are perfect alternatives for the Indian thick, creamy yogurt.
Storage Tips for Spices and Herbs
Ideally, it is best to buy all dry spices in their whole form. Whole spices will stay fresh generally five to six months longer than pre-ground spices. It’s a good habit to smell ground spices before using them; if their smell is very faint, it’s time to replace them or grind a fresh batch. Both whole and ground spices should be stored in a cool, dry, dark place in tightly covered jars. Freshly ground spices are not the same as pre-ground, store-bought spices. Freshly ground spices are far superior in flavor and aroma to pre-ground spices. Another difference is volume: Freshly ground spices have less density tablespoon for tablespoon and less volume ounce for ounce than pre-ground spices, which settle over time. You might think you would need to use more of the freshly ground spice to compensate for the greater weight of the settled, and therefore denser, pre-ground bottled spice. But because pre-ground spices are so much less potent than freshly ground, the difference in volume is not of consequence. If anything, you might need to add more of the pre-ground spice.
To prolong the life span of fresh herbs, such as fresh coriander (cilantro) and mint, wash the leaves and dry with a paper towel until the leaves are mostly, but not completely, dry. Store refrigerated, wrapped in a paper towel, inside a zip-lock bag.
Asafetida The dried, gum-like resin from the rhizome of a giant fennel-like plant is sold in both lump and ground forms. It is used in very small quantities because of its strong and pungent flavor, which is somewhat like garlic. I use and recommend the ground version because it comes mixed with rice flour and turmeric powder to mellow the flavor.
Asian Red Chili Powder or Cayenne Pepper This is a red powder made from grinding the dried, red skins of several types of chili peppers. In India, it is simply called “chili powder.” You can substitute cayenne pepper, which is commonly available in supermarkets. The Indian chili powder, which is darker in color than cayenne pepper, is available in Indian grocery stores. It adds a spicy flavor to dishes.
Bay Leaves These are long, oval, pointed and smooth leaves of a hardy evergreen shrub. The leaves are dark green when fresh and turn olive green when dry. The fresh leaves are very mild and do not develop their full flavor until several weeks after being picked and dried. They are often used whole or sometimes ground in curries and rice dishes. They are an important ingredient in the Indian spice blend, garam masala. Bay leaves are also a common fixture in the cooking of many European cuisines (particularly those of the Mediterranean), as well as North and South American cuisines. The bay leaf that is commonly available in North America is similar in appearance to the Indian bay leaf, but its flavor and fragrance are milder than the Indian one. If you cannot find Indian bay leaves, which are often found only in Indian grocery stores, you may substitute regular bay leaves. The difference is very subtle and will not be apparent in the final result.
Cardamom The cardamom plant is native to India and Sri Lanka and is also cultivated in Guatemala, Mexico, Indonesia, and other areas of southern Asia. Cardamom pods are harvested just before they are ripe and are allowed to dry in the sun or sometimes in drying machines. There are two distinct types of cardamom pods used in Indian cooking—the small, green pod and large, black pod. The green pods are the most common and have an exceptional flavor. I use the green pods in all the recipes in this book. Black cardamom pods are used in Indian rice and meat dishes, but they are not as commonly available. Cardamom pods are used in almost every part of the cuisine, from savory dishes to curries and desserts. When using cardamom for desserts, the seeds are extracted from the pods and ground to a powder. For curries, stews, or rice dishes, the whole pod can be added directly to the food. The sharp and bitter taste of cardamom mellows to a warming, sweet taste as it cooks. In the West, ground cardamom is more readily available than the pods, whereas in India, it is more typical to find whole pods. The quality of pre-ground cardamom is not as good as from seeds freshly ground at home. Once the pods are opened or the seeds ground, the flavor and aroma of the cardamom are lost very quickly. I especially recommend freshly grinding the seeds for the dessert and beverage recipes, where the spice often plays a key role.
Chili Peppers, Fresh, Green There are more than 150 varieties of chili peppers in the world. That’s a lot to keep track of, but as a general rule, the smaller ones are hotter than the larger ones. The two most common chilies used in Indian cooking are the cayenne and Thai. Cayenne pepper is green when fresh and red when dried. The Thai variety, sometimes known as “bird’s eye,” is smaller and hotter. The serrano chili is more widely available in the United States and is a good alternative to the cayenne and Thai, though it is milder. If you cannot find fresh cayenne, Thai, or serrano chili peppers, simply use what’s available. Fresh chilies are one of the most important ingredients for providing pungency in Indian cuisine. In many regions in India, fresh, green chilies are served raw with the food. Often I like to reduce the heat by removing the inner membrane and seeds and use only the skin. Chopping a fresh chili releases capsaicin, and the finer you chop it, the hotter the taste. Sometimes I slit the chilies open, but leave the seeds intact to release a gentler heat.
Chili Peppers, Dried, Red These are whole, dried red hot chilies, about 1½–2 in (4–5 cm) long that are usually added to hot oil to infuse it with their strong flavor. A quick contact with hot oil enhances and intensifies the flavor of the skins. Most chilies start off green and turn red as they age. The Indian dried red chilies are similar to most common types such as the cayenne and chile de arbol.
Cinnamon This highly fragrant spice is the dried inner bark of the laurel tree. An important ingredient in Indian cooking, it imparts a pleasant aroma to foods. It is sold in powder and stick forms. The whole sticks are used to flavor meats, curry dishes, and rice dishes as well as teas.
Cloves These are the dried, unopened buds of a tropical tree. Deep reddish-brown cloves add a strong fragrance to rice and grain recipes and are an important ingredient in garam masala. They are lightly fried in hot oil, which perfumes the food cooked in it.
Coconut Milk, Coconut Meat, Shredded Coconut In my recipes I use coconut milk, coconut meat, and shredded coconut. Coconut milk is produced by crushing the thick, white coconut meat and mixing it with water. The result is then drained, and the soaked coconut meat squeezed to extract the liquid. As the milk sits, the fat rises to the surface. This fat is skimmed off and sold separately as coconut cream. The cream is much richer and thicker than the milk. Coconut milk and coconut cream are both sold in cans. When using coconut milk for savory recipes, make sure it is not sweetened. Sweetened milk or cream is used in making pastries and cocktails. I prefer to use full-fat coconut milk rather than the “lite” version that is not as flavorful or creamy. Before opening a can of coconut milk, make sure to shake it well as the cream will have risen to the top; shaking the can incorporates the cream into the thinner milk-like liquid to create a smooth, even consistency. Once the can is opened make sure you store it in the refrigerator, covered, and use it within 2–3 days since it spoils quickly.
Packaged, shredded coconut (sometimes labeled “grated”) is available frozen, which is the next best option to freshly grated and dried or “desiccated.” For
