The leaves are sold fresh when in season or dried in packets year round in Indian markets. The dried leaves can also be purchased online (see Shopping Guide, page 140). Frozen chopped fenugreek greens are also now available at some Indian grocery stores. I use the dried version—kasoori methi—in the recipes in this book because of its unique flavor and strong taste. In comparison, fresh methi (young leaves and sprouts of fenugreek) has a very mild flavor. When fresh, the leaves are eaten as greens and are commonly cooked with potatoes, spinach, and paneer and eaten with roti or naan (breads). The dried leaves have a bitter taste and strong aroma and are used in small amounts to flavor dishes. There is no real substitute for this ingredient in Indian recipes, and so I have made its use optional throughout the book.
Fenugreek Seeds The fenugreek seeds are bitter, yellowish-brown, tiny seeds that provide commercial curry powders their distinctive aroma. They are used in small quantities because of their strong flavor. In the southern part of India, the seeds are often oil-roasted and then ground to create a bitter balance in curries; in eastern India, the seeds are stir-fried whole. They are available only in Southeast Asian or Indian grocery stores.
Garlic A close relative to onions, shallots, and leeks, garlic has been used throughout recorded history for both culinary and medicinal purposes. It has a characteristic pungent, spicy flavor that mellows and sweetens considerably with cooking. Garlic powder is not a substitute for fresh garlic in traditional Indian cooking. Whole bulbs of garlic will keep for several months or more when stored at room temperature in a dry, dark place that has ample air circulation. Keep in mind, however, that garlic’s shelf life decreases once you start removing cloves from the bulb. Storing garlic uncovered, such as in a wire-mesh basket inside your cupboard is ideal. You can also store garlic in a paper or mesh bag. Just be sure there is plenty of dry air and little light to inhibit sprouting. To avoid mold, do not refrigerate or store garlic in plastic bags.
Ginger A knobby, pale-brown rhizome of a perennial tropical plant, ginger is available fresh, dried, ground into a powder and as a preserved stem. Ground ginger or preserved ginger is almost never used in Indian cooking. Fresh ginger root has no aroma, but once you peel or cut it, it emits a warm, woody aroma with citrus undertones. When used fresh, it has a peppery hot bite to it. Fresh ginger is used throughout India and is a very common ingredient in Indian cooking. It is often ground into a paste, finely chopped, or made into juice. We use chopped ginger to stir-fry vegetables, crushed ginger or ginger paste in meat stews and legumes, and thinly sliced slivers of raw ginger to sprinkle over curries just before serving. While shopping for fresh ginger, look for a hard and heavy root that snaps easily into pieces. Avoid dry, shriveled roots that feel light for their size. Keep fresh ginger in the refrigerator crisper in a plastic bag with a paper towel to absorb moisture (to prevent mold, change the towel occasionally). The root will last for two or three weeks. To extend its life, you can freeze ginger. You don’t even need to defrost it, and ginger is much easier to grate when frozen.
Ghee This is the Indian version of clarified butter—that is, butter from which milk solids are removed. Ghee is one of the primary cooking fats used in India. Unlike regular clarified butter, the process of making ghee involves melting the butter over a low heat and then simmering it until all the moisture has evaporated, and the milk solids have separated from the fat. The milk solids are then removed, leaving a pure fat that is excellent for deep-frying because of its high smoke point. I just love the way ghee infuses food with a delicious flavor and aroma. It has a buttery and a nutty flavor. I often add a few drops to hot rice dishes, dals, and curries as finishing oil. Ghee has a very long shelf life and at room temperature will keep for 4–6 months. Store it in a clean, airtight plastic or glass jar. Ghee is commonly available in Indian grocery stores and is typically sold in glass or plastic jars as a solid, butter-like fat. In many recipes in this book, I have called for ghee, which I feel brings out the best flavor of those dishes. If you do not have ghee, substitute a mixture of equal parts of unsalted butter and neutral-flavored oil.
To Make Ghee at Home: Melt 1 lb (450 g) of unsalted butter in a heavy-bottomed, medium-size saucepan over medium-low heat. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the milk solids turn a rich golden color and settle to the bottom of the pan, about 15–20 minutes. Initially, the butter will foam and as it simmers the foam will subside. Pass the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer lined with cheesecloth or muslin into a sterilized jar. This recipe makes about 2 cups (500 ml) of ghee. Note: Use either one 12-in (30-cm) square piece of fine muslin or four layers of cheesecloth.
Lentils see Dried Legumes
Mangoes This fruit is native to the Indian sub-continent, where it has been grown for more than 4,000 years. Because the mango seed can’t be dispersed naturally by wind or water, owing to its large size and weight, it is believed that people who moved from one region to another transported the fruit to new areas. Though mango cultivation has now spread to many parts of the tropical and sub-tropical world, including Brazil, Mexico, the West Indies, and parts of Florida, nearly half of the world’s mangoes are cultivated in India alone.
Mangoes are widely used in Indian cuisine. The green, unripe mangoes are sour and are used to make chutneys, pickles, and sometimes side dishes such as Chickpea, Mango, and Watercress Salad (page 45). As a chef’s tip, I say when you make salads calling for a crunchy vegetable like carrots or radishes, replace them with green, unripe mangoes for a unique tangy twist. Green, unripe mangoes are also eaten raw with a sprinkle of salt and Asian red chili powder or cayenne pepper, which is my favorite way to eat them. Chilled Mango Cooler (page 132), a very popular and refreshing summer drink, is made with green, unripe mangoes blended with water, mint, sugar, salt, cumin, and ice.
Ripe mangoes are typically eaten fresh. Mango Lassi (page 133), made by adding mango pulp to yogurt, is the most popular drink in India and Indian restaurants worldwide. Ripe mangoes are used to make desserts as well as savory curries. Aamras—sweetened, thick, ripe mango pulp with the flavor of cardamom—is a popular dish in western India that is served along with Fried Puffed Bread (page 125). The Alfonso mango is considered the sweetest and best of all the eating mangoes. For some recipes, I use canned Alfonso mango purée (available in Indian grocery stores) when fresh ones are not in season.
When shopping for ripe mangoes, look for fruit with unblemished yellow skin with a red tinge or blush. You should avoid mangoes that have bruises or soft spots. You can buy green mangoes and ripen them at home by placing them in a brown paper bag on your counter for a week. Ripe mangoes will last 2–3 days at room temperature or for up to 5 days in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.
You can find green mangoes in most Indian, Southeast Asian, or South American markets. When shopping for green mangoes, make sure they are firm and their skins are dark green in color and unblemished. Store them at room temperature uncovered. They will last about 2 weeks.
Mint An aromatic, almost exclusively perennial herb with a very refreshing taste, fresh mint is used in Indian marinades, chutneys, drinks, and desserts and in curries and rice dishes. I also use dried mint for making breads in my kitchen. Chopped fresh mint leaves steeped in a cup of hot water with tea and honey is one of my favorite after-dinner beverages. The spearmint variety is most commonly used in Indian cooking. When purchasing mint, make sure the leaves are fresh and green in color without black spots or cracks. See “Storage Tips for Spices and Herbs,” page 12.
