The Rescued Dog Problem Solver. Tracy J. Libby
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If going off leash is not possible, consider letting the dogs drag their leashes on the ground. If that isn’t possible, use a 6-foot (100 cm) leash or long line but be sure to keep the leash or long line loose at all times.
While there are numerous advantages to introducing dogs on neutral territory, sometimes it isn’t possible. In these instances, your yard is better than inside the house. Urinating and marking are normal ways dogs meet, greet, and find out anything and everything about each other, and outdoor meetings allow them this opportunity. Inside your home can create additional stress because of the inability to “mark”—or they may mark your couch, which does not get things off to a good start! Plus, indoors may not provide the open space dogs need to adequately check each other out. Some dogs are more territorial than others, and being indoors, which forces dogs to investigate each other at close range, may create additional problems.
With any dog-to-dog interactions, you must be observant. Brush up on your canine body language skills so you can recognize when either dog is worried, anxious, fearful, or simply being a bully. Also, keep things moving. It’s probably one of the most important things you can do to help dogs become comfortable with each other. For example, if one or all of the dogs get up on their hackles, stare at each other, or the like—tell them in a happy, calm voice, “Hey, guys, let’s go this way”—or whatever is necessary to calmly break up the potentially tense get-together. If you start walking in a purposeful way, the dogs, or at least one of them, should follow. The key is to move away from the dogs, which helps to diffuse additional tension. This is a difficult concept for many owners because human nature is to move toward the dogs.
Next Steps
Once the dogs have completed the “meet and greet” outside and appear comfortable with each other, then you can move them indoors. However, until you are certain how they will react, do not leave them alone. Again, baby gates and ex-pens are great for separating dogs yet still allowing them to see each other. This also prevents them from being forced to interact, and gives them plenty of time to be away from each other for periods of time.
Many puppies, as well as some adult dogs, can become overwhelmed and unnecessarily frightened by two or three dogs trying to get access to them at the same time. In these instances, try sitting on the floor and holding your dog in your lap. If everything seems fine, let one dog interact, but continue to supervise. Then change dogs—putting the first dog away and allowing another dog to meet his new canine sibling.
Depending on your new dog’s history, if he is nervous, shy, timid, fearful, or was bullied or intimidated by other dogs, or if your other dog likes to be in charge, you will need to take precautions and make introductions slowly. This process can take a few hours, days, or weeks. Never force introductions because this may destroy any chance of dogs getting along—ever! All introductions should be positive and stress free. Obviously, the situation itself dictates a certain amount of stress on the dogs’ part, but your calm mannerisms and deportment will go a long way toward minimizing additional stress.
It may be necessary to put your new dog in an ex-pen and allow the dogs to meet and greet with a barrier between them. Sometimes learning to simply exist around each other is a huge step and a safe way for dogs to get comfortable in the same environment. Dogs who are nervous, anxious, disobedient, hyperactive, and so forth can create chaos and turmoil, which can lead to canine squabbling and scrapping. Use crates, x-pens, or room barriers to separate dogs when they can’t be supervised.
If you are lucky enough to have an acre or two of fenced property and it’s safe to let them run loose, then off-leash walks are great for letting dogs check out each other, explore their territory, run, play, and burn off excess stress and energy. Otherwise, parallel leash walks with your new dog and existing dog work well, too. They don’t have to walk next to each other. One on each side of you works well, and, as they become more comfortable together, you can gradually close the distance.
Most problems arise because the new and existing dogs are allowed to run loose too quickly in a chaotic, stressful environment. When introductions do not go smoothly and a squabble ensues, there is a good chance the grudge and long-term distrust will continue. No one wants chaos and animosity between animals. So it is always worth taking the time to introduce animals slowly and properly. If you are uncertain, consult an experienced dog trainer or behaviorist. It is well worth the time and financial investment to establish a positive, stress-free environment from day one rather than trying to “fix” a bad situation. “Better safe than sorry” is sound advice. So too is prevention! Prevention! Prevention!
Allow your new dog to explore his new house but keep an eye him.
In-Home Precautions
With any luck, the introductions will go off without a hitch, and you and your canine buddies will be on the fast track to plenty of fun and companionship. Allow the dogs to establish a hierarchy among themselves, with you, of course, being the leader. While it may be natural for owners to fuss and coo over the newest addition, it is important not to neglect your existing dog. First, it’s neither fair nor nice, and doing so can inadvertently make some dogs resentful.
Allow your new dog to explore the house but stay close to him. Never allow him unlimited or unsupervised access to your home until you are certain how he will react. Once the home tour is complete, you may need to set up baby gates or ex-pens to corral his environment. Your newest addition may or may not be housetrained, and you don’t want him hiking his leg from one end of the house to the other. Puppies, as well as a few adult dogs, love to chew on anything and everything—whether it fits in their mouth or not—which is another great reason to corral his environment.
In the beginning, you may need to pick up all toys, chew toys, bones, and any of your existing dog’s favorite items to prevent any sibling rivalry or conflict. Introducing these items after the dogs have accepted each other is fine. However, not all dogs can live harmoniously with toys or chews lying around. Not all dogs are willing to lounge side by side gnawing on bones or treats. It may be that you need to keep them picked up at all times to avoid a power struggle. Separating dogs in crates or via baby gates while they are chewing bones also may be necessary.
How your new dog will react to his new home is difficult to say. Again, much will depend on his history, breed, temperament, personality, age, and his response to his new home. How you handle the situation is equally difficult to prescribe, and you may need to adjust or tweak the guidelines to suit your dog.
It’s natural for many rescue dogs to be nervous or unsettled the first few days or weeks. Generally speaking, most dogs settle in after a short period of time. Calmness and patience on your part are most important and will go a long way toward helping your dog to adjust to his new life.
Introducing Children and Other Family Members
Children and dogs tend to go together, but too much togetherness all at one time can be overwhelming. Plenty of rescued dogs have never been around or socialized to children, and some dogs—well—simply do not tolerate any children, let alone noisy, rambunctious ones. Parents are the key figures when it comes to teaching children how to interact safely with a puppy or adult dog, and vice versa. By setting a few ground rules, you can help to ensure your children and new dog will develop a long-term friendship.