later by emperor. In the 1st century B.C., it was made of silk. In the 2nd century, it was worn by consul, and during the Empire Period, was considered the correct costume of the court.
Toga Praetexta—at first worn by patrician boy to age of sixteen, and by king; later, in Republican Period, by some officials and priests. The straight edge had a wide purple border. The sinus was draped over the head during sacrificial ceremony.
Toga Pulla—dark, somber-colored or black toga worn for mourning.
Toga Pura—national costume for men; from the 3rd century B.C., a woolen toga denoted enfranchisement of the person wearing the garment, not worn by peasant, foreigner or outlawed subject; after 2nd century A.D., worn usually in the home.
Toga Trabea—purple—bordered toga of white and red stripes worn only as badge of distinction on ceremonial occasions; border followed straight edge. Purple and white were reserved for king, purple and scarlet for augur.
Toga Umbo—regular toga with a red or purple band; worn with arm in umbo. Pl. IX, 6.
Toga Virilus—pure white toga worn by youth of 14 to 16 years.
Tunic or Tunica—garment of various lengths, usually several of different colors, worn at the same time. The woolen tunica reached to calf or ankle. The natural-colored or white, woolen garment was worn girded, similar to Greek chiton. This tunica was knee length or a little longer, but shorter in back, and was worn slipped off right shoulder by laborer. Refer to Chaps. 2, 3, 4.
Tunica Interior—tunic or chemise worn next to skin.
Tunica Manicata—tunica with sleeve to wrist.
Tunica Palmata—purple and gold embroidered, ceremonial tunica; reached to ankle; worn with toga picta on triumphal occasions. Later, this garment with sleeve became the magnificent costume of the Byzantine Court.
Tunica Talaris—the long-sleeved, long-girded tunica worn by woman and elderly man.
Udo—covering for the foot resembling our present day houseslipper.
Umbo—pouch or fold formed by draping upper left part of toga to envelop right hand; abandoned in 1st century.
Veil—short or long rectangular piece of light wool, silk, linen or cotton, often fringed and ornamented with gold; draped over head and shoulder. Refer to Chaps. 3, 4.
Byzantium
CHRONOLOGY
Byzantium founded c. 658 B.C. Reduced by Pausanias, 479 B.C.
Constantine the Great, A.D. 323-337, sole ruler A.D. 324, Constantinople, capital of Roman Empire, A.D. 330. Empire divided at his death among his three sons.
Division of Roman Empire, A.D. 364, Valentinian elected Emperor of Western Empire, his brother, Valens became Emperor of Eastern Empire.
Theodosius the Great, A.D. 379-395. Constantinople, capital of Eastern or Grecian Empire; Rome capital of Western Empire. Public schools established. Theodosius made ruler of the East and later became ruler of entire Empire, A.D. 394-395. After his death 395, division of Roman Empire between his two sons, Honorius received the Western and Arcadius the Eastern half.
Fall of the Western Empire, A.D. 476.
Justinian the Great, A.D. 527-565, reunited the Empire. Great patron of the arts. Legislation compiled in the Novellae, A.D. 529, giving Roman law much prestige, publication of Codex Justinianus, A.D. 529. Building of Santa Sophia, A.D. 532-537.
Division of Early Christian Church in A.D. 729. Eastern portion in Constantinople known as Greek Orthodox Church.
Iconoclastic Controversy, A.D. 726, 741, 753.
Irene, First Empress, A.D. 797-802.
Coronation of Charlemagne, Western Empire, A.D. 800, not recognized by Eastern Empire until A.D. 803. Peace with the Emperor of the Eastern Empire, the latter retaining southern Italy, Venice, and Dalmatia.
University of Constantinople opened about A.D. 850.
Final separation of the Roman Church, 1054.
CHAPTER 6
Byzantium
HISTORY
The influence of Byzantine culture spread far and wide—to all the important cities of Italy—to the Merovingians and Carlovingians of Western Europe—as far north as Russia and as far south as North Africa. From the 5th to the 12th centuries Byzantium became the most important power of the period and a center of culture, including fashions.
The colony of Byzantium was founded in 658 B.C. by a small band of immigrants who left Megara, a port on the Isthmus of Corinth, and landed on the promontory dividing Asia from Europe. They established primitive fortifications, built reed huts.
Constantine the Great, realizing that the site of Byzantium was important as a connecting link between Western and Eastern civilizations, founded a city there in A.D. 330 and named it “New Rome,” the capital of the Roman Empire. Later, it was given his name and the two names—Byzantium and Constantinople—were used interchangeably. Before the time of Constantine, the Christian religion was for slaves, hermits, and humble folk; under his reign it became a religion for conquerors, courtiers, and soldiers.
After the death of Theodosius the Great in A.D. 395 the Roman Empire was divided into the Eastern and the Western Empires. Constantinople became the capital of the East Roman or the Byzantine Empire, known also as the Greek Empire and the Eastern Empire. For ten and a half centuries the Byzantine Empire existed, and during a long time it was the most important center of commerce and civilization in the world. Caravans of vast wealth from northern and eastern Asia converged on Constantinople, bearing goods to be traded with Wester Europe. In turn, these same caravans carried back Byzantine works of art, and other products of much interest and value to the Asiatic people. Shipping on the Mediterranean was largely controlled by the Byzantines.
EAST ROMAN EMPIRE A.D. 565
The Classic Greek art had influenced the new or Christian art, as the latter was known. With the fall of the Western Roman Empire in A.D. 476, the influence of Classic art or Greek and Greco-Roman art, came to an end. Oriental influence in Constantinople became more and more important, until it superseded Western dominance. The simplicity of the old Roman dress gave way to the gay coloring, fringes, tassels, and jewels of the East. The idea in dress in this era was to conceal and obscure the body.
Emperor Justinian of the Eastern Empire, who was greatly influenced by his wife Theodora, did much to encourage the manufacture of silk fabrics. Excellent examples of the costumes worn by the Emperor and the Empress Theodora may be found in the mosaics in the church of St. Vitale in Ravenna. While costume showed elaborate display of jewels in the 6th century, it retained a more or less simple and dignified line. Emperor Justinian also was a great builder and patron of the arts. His important architectural achievement was
