and ’39; costume jewelry and belt, 1940’s; hairdress, 1940’s; modern cut and sewn garments often following Byzantine styles; coat with hood, 1948.
BOOKS OF REFERENCE
(See also GENERAL BIBLIOGRAPHY, p. 433)
Houston, Mary Galway, Ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine Costume, Vol. 2 (London, A. and C. Black, Ltd., 1931)
Norris, Herbert, Costume and Fashion, Vol. 1 (New York, E. P. Dutton and Co., 1925)
GLOSSARY
Abolla—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. X, 6.
Angustus Clavus—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. X, 4.
Bracco or Braies—the former, a loose-fitting leg covering or hose; the latter, usually close-fitting, with or without cross-gartering. Refer to Chap. 5. Pl. X, 1, 7.
Cape—refer to Chaps. 2, 3, 4.
Chasuble—round or oval in shape, with a hole for the head; used also as an ecclesiastical garment. Pl. XIII, 4.
Chemise—undergarment with long sleeve that showed beneath sleeve of outer garment. Pl. XI, 8.
Chiton—revival of Greek costume. Refer to Chap. 4. Pl. XIII, 3.
Circlet—refer to Chaps. 2, 5. Pl. X, 5.
Clavus—extended to below the breast. Refer to Chap. 5. Pl. XII, 2.
Collar—refer to Chap. 2. Pl. XIII, 5.
1. Stole 2. Tunic or Tunica 3. Chiton 4. Chasuble 5. Collar
Colobium—refer to Chap. 5.
Cope—half circular, formal cape—from Latin word capa.
Cowl—the hood of a monk’s gown attached to the back of the collar and pulled over the head if desired. Pl. X, 2.
Cucullus—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. Xll, 1.
Dalmatica—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. X, 3.
Damask—silk or linen cloth with a figured satin weave, named from the city of Damascus where it was first manufactured.
Diadem—refer to Chaps. 3, 4, 5.
Drawers or Trousers—leg—covering resembling national costume worn by the Medes, Persians, Parthians, and Phrygians.
Fibula—refer to Chaps. 4, 5.
Fillet—refer to Chaps. 2, 4, 5.
Hosa—hose or covering for the leg.
Intaglio—refer to Chap. 4.
LatusClavus—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. XI, 7.
Lorum—long, narrow scarf originating from pallium, worn with Byzantine court costume 8th-12th century. Pl. XI, 6.
Mappa—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. XI, 4.
Orb—celestial sphere often surmounted by a cross, carried by Emperor and Empress.
Palla—refer to Chap. 5.
Pallium—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. XII, 6.
Paludamentum—the imperial mantle of rich material, often of purple silk embroidered in gold, or gold and jewels. Refer to Chap. 5. Pl. XII, 7.
Pedule—short hose usually turned down at knee. Pl. XII, 3.
Petasus—refer to Chaps. 4, 5. Pl. XII, 4.
Phrygian Cap—refer to Chaps. 3, 4. Pl. XII, 5.
Pouch—bag attached to belt.
Reliquary—pendant of gold or enamel containing a relic. Pl. XI, 3.
Sandal—refer to Chaps. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5.
Sarcenet—fine thin silk cloth originating in the Orient; named from Saracen.
Scepter—ornamented staff or baton used at first by the consul at games; after the 7th century, used as a symbol of royalty. Refer to Chap. 4.
Segmentum—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. XI, 5.
Slipper—low shoe fastened with a strap. Pl. X, 8.
Stola—revival of the Roman stola. Refer to Chap. 5. Pl. XII, 8.
Stole—refer to Chap. 5. Pl. XIII, 1.
Sudarium—refer to Chap. 5.
Tablion—the very elaborate oblong decoration embroidered in red and gold on the back and front of the imperial paludamentum. Purple mantle of Emperor Theodosius had gold tablion; white mantle of high official had purple tablion. Pl. XI, 1.
Taffeta—stiff silk cloth used as lining of rich mantle, possibly as early as the 4th century.
Toga—refer to Chap. 5.
Toga Picta—less wide than the one worn during the Roman period. Refer to Chap. 5.
Tonsure—manner of shaving the head as a mark of ecclesiastic order and Pl. XI, 2.
Trousers—refer to Drawers.
Tunic or Tunica—resembled dalmatica later in period, with exception of sleeve which fitted closely at wrist in the tunica. Refer to Chaps. 2, 3, 4, 5. Pl. XIII, 2.
Tunica Palmata—refer to Chap. 5.
Tunica Talaris—refer to Chap. 5.
Veil—refer to Chaps. 3, 4, 5.
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