Sauces in French Cuisine. Romeo Brodmann
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4. Remove roasted veal bones from cookware, drain off excess fat.
5. Place vegetables in cookware and roast gently.
6. Add tomato puree and roast with other ingredients. Do not burn.
7. Add roasted bones.
8. Deglaze and top up with water.
9. Reduce until everything begins to slightly roast again. Repeat once or twice.
10. Once everything has reduced for the third time, place bones in suitable pot.
11. Dissolve juices at the bottom of the pan with water and add to bones.
12. Top up with broth and white wine.
13. Bring to the boil and gently boil for 1.5 to 2 hours. Skim and degrease frequently.
14. Add spices half an hour before the end of the cooking time.
15. Pass through a coarse sieve.
16. Drain off and press bones.
17. Pour through cheesecloth.
18. Squeeze thoroughly.
Fond de Gibier Brun (Game Stock)
Ingredients for 1 l (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups)
20 ml (3/4 fl oz or 1/10 U.S. cups) oil (sunflower or peanut oil)
700 g (1 lb 8 2/3 oz) trimmings and bones of game, chopped into thumb size pieces
100 g (3 1/2 oz) calf’s feet, chopped into thumb size pieces
200 g (7 oz) vegetables: carrots, onions (no leek, would turn bitter during roasting)
30 g (1 oz) tomato puree
1.5 l (2 5/8 pt or 6 1/2 U.S. cups) water (2 to 3 times > 500 ml (18 fl oz 2 1/4 U.S. cups))
600 ml (1 pt or 2 5/8 U.S. cups) white wine
1 l (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups) water or Fond Brun
spices: salt, 1 bay leaf, 5 juniper berries, 5 peppercorns, bouquet garni (1 sprig of sage and thyme and parsley stalks)
Preparation
Roasting Variant 1: Mix trimmings / bones of game and calf’s feet with the oil in a frying pan (iron or cast iron pans are best suited, but coated pans also work) and roast slowly and carefully for 1 to 1.5 hours. Turn occasionally. Place bones in a bowl. Slowly and gently roast vegetables for approx. 30 minutes in the same pan. Add tomato puree and roast together for 10 minutes.
Roasting Variant 2: Mix trimmings / bones of game and calf’s feet with the oil, place in (coated or uncoated) metal roasting pan. Place on grid in heated oven (200 °Celsius), medium height. Roast for 1.5 to 2 hours, turn occasionally. Keep an eye on temperature, reduce heat if necessary. Add vegetables, continue to roast for 30 minutes. Add tomato puree, continue to roast for 15 minutes.
According to variant 1, put everything back into frying pan, deglaze with 500 ml (18 fl oz 2 1/4 U.S. cups) of water.
According to variant 2, deglaze with 500 ml (18 fl oz 2 1/4 U.S. cups) of water.
For both variants, boil down water and reduce until everything begins to slightly roast again (reduce to a glaze), then add another 500 ml (18 fl oz 2 1/4 U.S. cups) of water. Repeat once or twice.
Once everything has reduced for the second or third time, transfer to a suitable pot. Rinse cookware or frying pan with a little water and add to bones.
Top up with white wine and 1 l (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups) of water. Bring to the boil and frequently skim and degrease. Add spices after one hour.
Gently boil for 1 to 2 hour.
Pass through a coarse sieve, pressing gently. Then strain through a cheesecloth. Season to taste with salt.
Note
Trimmings and bones of furred game: roe deer, deer, wild boar, hare.
Trimmings and bones of game birds: pheasant, partridge etc. Depending on use, only process one variety.
Seasoning with salt: Do not season with salt according to taste and use until the stock has been strained through the cheesecloth.
Slowly roast over low heat, never at excessive heat. Do not burn. Otherwise the stock would develop unpleasant bitter substances and undesirable black pigments. Roasting is a time consuming and continuous process.
You may also replace the entire liquid with red wine, which will give the stock a slightly different flavour and a stronger colour. Disadvantage: There is a risk that the stock will turn greyish when mixed with cream and / or white sauce (e.g. for Sauce à la Crème).
Fond de Veau Blanc (White Veal Stock)
Ingredients for 1 l (1 3/4 pt or 4 1/2 U.S. cups)
600 g (21 oz ) veal bones of breastbone or veal trimmings
100 g (3 1/2 oz) calf’s feet
1.4 l (2 1/2 pt or 6 U.S. cups) water
100 g (3 1/2 oz) vegetables: carrots, white part of leek, celeriac, onions
spices: salt, 1 bay leaf, 1 clove, 5 peppercorns, 1 small sprig of thyme, 5 parsley stalks
Preparation
Boil (blanch) veal bones / veal /