Chocolatero—Contrary Winds—Chain of Mountains—Goleta
LETTER THE FOURTH
Distant View of Vera Cruz—Pilots—Boat from the City—Mutual Salutes—Approach to Vera Cruz—Crowd on the Wharf—House of Don Dionisio V—o—Guard of Honour—German Piano—Supper—Madonna—Aspect of the City—Sopilotes—Deliberations—General Guadalupe Victoria—Two-headed Eagle—Dilapidated Saint—Harp—Theatre—Doña Innocencia Martinez—Invitation from General Santa Anna
LETTER THE FIFTH
Departure from Vera Cruz—Sandhills—Oriental Scene—Manga de Clavo—
General Santa Anna—Breakfast—Escort and Diligence—Santa Fe—Puente
Nacional—Bridge sketched by Mrs. Ward—Country in December—Don Miguel—
First Impressions—Fruit—Plan del Rio—German Musicians—Sleeping
Captain—Approach to Jalapa—Appearance of the City—Cofre de Perote—
Flowers—House and Rock—Last View of Jalapa—Change of Scenery—San
Miguel de los Soldados—Perote-Striking Scene before Day-break—Non-
arrival of Escort—Yankee Coachman Dispute—Departure—Company of Lancers
—Alcalde—Breakfast at La Ventilla—Pulque—Double Escort—Crosses—
Brigand-looking Tavern-keeper—Ojo de Agua-Arrival at Puebla-Dress of the
Peasants—Christmas-eve-Inn-"Nacimiento"
LETTER THE SIXTH
Departure from Puebla—Chirimoyas—Rio Frio—Indian Game—Black Forest—
Valley of Mexico—Recollections of Tenochtitlan—Mexican Officer—
Reception—Scenery—Variety of Dresses—Cheers—Storm of Rain—Entry to
Mexico—Buenavista—House by Daylight—Sights from the Windows—Visits—
Mexican Etiquette—Countess C—a—Flowers in December—Serenade—
Patriotic Hymn
LETTER THE SEVENTH
Début in Mexico—Cathedral—Temple of the Aztecs—Congregation—Stone of
Sacrifices—Palace—Importunate Léperos—Visit to the President—Countess
C—a—Street-cries—Tortilleras—Sartor Resartus
LETTER THE EIGHTH
Ball in Preparation—Agreeable Family—Fine Voices—Theatre—Smoking-
Castle of Chapultepec—Viceroy Galvez—Montezuma's Cypress—Vice-Queen—
Valley of Mexico—New Year's Day—Opening of Congress—Visits from the
Diplomatic Corps—Poblana Dress—"Función extraordinaria"—Theatre—Visit
to the Cathedral of Guadalupe—Divine Painting—Bishop—Beggars—
Mosquitoes Eggs
LETTER THE NINTH
Visits from Spaniards—Visit from the President—Disquisition—Poblana
Dress—Bernardo the Matador—Bull-fight extraordinary—Plaza de Toros—
Fireworks—Portrait of C—n—Fancy Ball—Dress-Costume of the
Patronesses—Beauty in Mexico—Doctor's Visit—Cards of faire part— Marquesa de San Roman—Toilet in Morning Visits of Ceremony—Attempt at Robbery—Murder of a Consul—La Gúera Rodriguez—Dr. Plan—M. de Humboldt —Anecdote—Former Customs
LETTER THE TENTH
San Fernando—House of Perez de Galvez—A Removal—Size of the Houses—Old Monastery—View by Sunset—Evening Visits—Mexican Etiquette—A Night—view from the Azotea-Tacubaya—Magueys—Making of Pulque—Organos and Nopal—Environs of Mexico—Miracle—Hacienda—View from the Countess C— a's House—Arzobispado—Anecdote—Comparative View of Beauty—Indians—Rancheritas—Mexican Cordiality—Masses for the Dead—San Agustin—Form of Invitation—Death of a Senator—A Mistake
LETTER THE ELEVENTH
Calle de Tacuba—The Leap of Alvarado—The "Noche Triste"—Sale of a
Curate's Goods—Padre Leon—Leprosy—Pictures—The Annunciation—The
Alameda—Paseo de Bucarelli—The Viga—Indians in Canoes—A Murder—A
Country Fête—Visit to the Colegia Vizcaino—The Jota Arragonesa—Old
Soldiers
LETTER THE TWELFTH
The Viga during the Carnival—Variety of Equipages—The Millionaires—The
Monks—Masked Ball—An Alarming Sight—Medical Students—Dinner at the
Prussian Minister's—Rides on Horseback—Indian Love of Flowers—Santa
Anita—The Chinampas—Their Origin—Indians in Canoes—Song of "El
Palomo"—Fighting—The Great Lakes—The Drain of Huehuetoca—The Great
Market of Tlatelolco
LETTER THE THIRTEENTH
Convent of San Joaquin—Mexico in the Morning—Tacuba—Carmelite Prior—
Convent Garden—Hacienda of Los Morales—El Olivar—A Huacamaya— Humming-birds—Correspondence—Expected Consecration—Visit to the Mineria—Botanic Garden—Arbol de las Manitas—The Museum—Equestrian Statue—Academy of Painting and Sculpture—Disappointment
LETTER THE FOURTEENTH
Palm Sunday—Holy Thursday—Variety of Costumes—San Francisco—Santa
Domingo—Santa Teresa—Nuns—Stone Bust—The Academy—Religious
Procession—Pilgrimage to the Churches—Santa Clara—Nun's Voice—Orange-
trees and Rose-bushes—The Cathedral Illuminated—Our Saviour
