to La Gabia—Heat and Hunger—Pleasant Quarters—Princely Estate—El Pilar—A Zorillo—A Wolf—Long Journey—Tortillas—Count de B———State of Michoacán—Forest Scenery—Trojes of Angangueo—Comfort
LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH
Leave Trojes—Beautiful Territory—Tarrascan Indians—Taximaroa— Distressed Condition—An Improvement—Cold Morning—Querendaro—Fine Breed of Horses—San Bartolo—Produce—Country Proprietors—Colear—Ride to Morelia—Wild Ducks—Sunset—Cathedral Bell—Cuincho—Curates Morelos, Matamoros, and Hidalgo—Warm Baths—Handsome Girls—Starving Travellers— Lost Mules—Lancers—Night on a Heap of Straw—Mules Found—Tzintzontzan— King Calsonsi—Pascuaro—Kind Reception—Bishop—Robbers—Curu—Night in a Barn—Mountain—Uruapa—Enchanting Scenery—Pleasant Family—Jorulla
LETTER THE FIFTIETH
Indian Dresses—Saints—Music—Union of Tropical and European Vegetation—
Old Customs—Falls of the Sararaqui—Silkworms—Indian Painting—Beautiful
Heroine—Leave Uruapa—Tziracuaratiro—Talkative Indian—Alcalde's House—
Pascuaro—Old Church—Mosaic Work—The Lake—The Cave—Fried Fish—Rich
Indians—Convent—Cuincho—Darkness—Morelia—Alameda—Cathedral—Silver
—Waxworks—College—Wonderful Fleas
LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST
San Bartolo—Mass—Markets—Rancheros—San Andrés—Insanity—Rancho—House of Don Carlos Heimburger—Wild Scenery—German Songs—Las Millas—Leave taking—Storm—Rainbow—El Pilar—La Gabia—Toluca—News—Copper Pronunciamiento—Return to Mexico—General Moran—Funeral Obsequies—New Theatre—Cock's Mass—Santa Clara—Santa Fe Prisoners—New Year
LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND
Last Day in Mexico—Theatre—Santa Anna—French Minister's—Parting—
Diligence—Last Look of Mexico—Fatigue—Robbers—Escort—Second
Impressions—Baths at Jalapa—Vera Cruz—Some Account of San Juan de Ulua
—Siege of 1825—Siege of 1838—General Bustamante—Theatre—Of the North
Winds
LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD
Sail in the Tyrian—Norther off Tampico—The Bar—The River Panuco—The
Pilot—The Shore—Alligator—"Paso de Doña Cecilia"—Tampico—Spanish Consul's House—Society—Navigation—Banks of the Panuco—Extraordinary Inoculation—The "Glorieta"—Leave Tampico—Furious Norther—Voyage— Arrival at Havana
LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH
Havana—The Carnival—The Elssler—La Angosta—Ingenio of Count V—a— General Bustamante—Lord Morpeth—Leave Havana—Voyage in the Medway—Old Friends—Return to the United States
PREFACE
The present work is the result of observations made during a two years' residence in Mexico, by a lady, whose position there made her intimately acquainted with its society, and opened to her the best sources of information in regard to whatever could interest an enlightened foreigner. It consists of letters written to the members of her own family, and, really, not intended originally—however incredible the assertion—for publication. Feeling a regret that such rich stores of instruction and amusement, from which I have so much profited, myself, should be reserved for the eyes of a few friends only, I strongly recommended that they should be given to the world. This is now done, with a few such alterations and omissions as were necessary in a private correspondence; and although the work would derive more credit from the author's own name, than from anything which I can say, yet as she declines prefixing it, I feel much pleasure in making this statement by way of introduction to the public.
WILLIAM H. PRESCOTT.
Boston, December 20, 1842.
GLOSSARY
OF
SPANISH OR MEXICAN WORDS WHICH OCCUR IN THE COURSE OF THE WORK, WHICH ARE GENERALLY EXPLAINED WHEN FIRST USED, BUT WHICH BEING REPEATED, THE READER MIGHT FORGET AND WISH TO REFER TO.
Administrador-Agent. Alameda-Public walk with trees. Aquador-Water-carrier. Alacran-Scorpion. Anquera-Coating of stamped gilt leather, edged with little bells, which covers the back of the horses. Arriero-Muleteer. Arroba-Spanish weight of twenty-five pounds. Azotea-The flat roof of a house. Barranca-Ravine. Botica-Apothecary's shop. Calle-Street. Cargadores-Men who carry loads. Chinguirito-Spirit made from sugar-cane. Chile-Hot peppers. Compadre and Comadre-Godfather and Godmother; names by which two persons address each other, who have held the same child at the baptismal font, or have been sponsors together at a marriage, etc. Canonigo-Canon or prebendary. Comicos-Actors. Camarista-Lady of honour. día de Anos-Birthday. Dulces-Sweetmeats. Díario-Daily newspapers. Frisones-Large horses from the north. Función-Solemnity-festival. Frijoles-Brown beans. Galopina-Kitchen-girl. Garbanzos-Chick-peas Cicer Arietinum. Gachupin-Name given to the Spaniards in Mejico. Garita-City-gate. Goleta-Schooner. Gentuza-Rabble. Honras-Funeral honours. Hacienda-Country-place. Ingenio de Azucar-Sugar plantation. _Invalidos—Disabled soldiers. Jarro—Earthen jar. Ladrones—Robbers. Léperos—Beggars, low persons. Litera—Litter. Monte Pio—Office where money is lent on security. Mezcal—Brandy distilled from pulque. Manga—Cloak made of cloth, with a hole in the middle for putting the head through. Novios—Betrothed persons. Nuestro Amo—Our Master, used in speaking of the Host. Ojo de Agua—Spring of water. Portales—Covered portico supported by columns. Pulqueria—Shop where pulque is sold. Paseo—Public walk. Paso—Pace, pacing. Padrino—Godfather. Plaza—Square. Patio—Courtyard. Petate—Matting. Poblana—Woman of Puebla. Pronunciamiento—A revolution in Mexico. Pronunciados—Those who revolt. Rancho—A farm. Ranchero—Farmer. Rebozo—A scarf that goes over the head. Reja—Iron grate. Sopilote—Species of carrion vulture. Sarape—A woollen blanket more or less fine, with a hole for the head to go through. Traspaso—Conveyance, transfer. Tilma—Indian cloak. Tierra caliente—The hot land. Tertulia—An
