Through the Land of the Serb. M. E. Durham

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OSTROG IV. NIKSHITJE AND DUKLE V. OUR LADY AMONG THE ROCKS VI. ANTIVARI VII. OF THE NORTH ALBANIAN VIII. SKODRA IX. SKODRA TO DULCIGNO

      PART II

      OF SERVIA

X.	BELGRADE
XI.	SMEDEREVO—SHABATZ— VALJEVO—UB—OBRENOVATZ
XII.	NISH
XIII.	PIROT
XIV.	EAST SERVIA
XV.	THE SHUMADIA AND SOUTH-WEST SERVIA
XVI.	KRUSHEVATZ

      PART III

      MONTENEGRO AND OLD SERVIA

      1903

XVII.	KOLASHIN—ANDRIJEVITZA—BERANI—PECH
XVIII.	TO DECHANI AND BACK TO PODGORITZA

      LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

      MONTENEGRIN WOMEN, CETINJE CEMETERY NEAR CETINJE BAKER'S SHOP, RIJEKA—ALBANIAN AND TWO MONTENEGRINS BULLOCK CART, PODGORITZA UPPER MONASTERY, OSTROG RUINS OF ANTIVARI MOUNTAIN ALBANIANS IN MARKET, PODGORITZA STREET IN BAZAAR, SKODRA SKODRA MOSQUE, SKODRA SHOP IN BAZAAR, SKODRA MONTENEGRIN PLOUGH SERVIAN PEASANTS TRAVELLING GIPSIES, RIJEKA, MONTENEGRO SOLDIERS' MONUMENTS CHURCH, STUDENITZA—WEST DOOR. CORONATION CHURCH, KRALJEVO TSAR LAZAR'S CASTLE CHURCH, KRUSHEVATZ—SIDE WINDOW OF APSE THE PATRIARCHIA, IPEK (PECH) PODGORITZA MAP OF THE LANDS OF THE SERB

      PUBLISHER'S NOTE

      In the spelling of proper names the system adopted in the Times Atlas has been followed as nearly as possible. Owing to the absence of Miss Durham in Macedonia, the following pages have not had the advantage of her revision in going through the press.

PART I

       Table of Contents

MONTENEGRO AND THE WAY THERE

       Table of Contents

      "What land is this?"

       "This is Illyria, lady."

       Twelfth Night.

THROUGH THE LANDS OF THE SERB

       Table of Contents

CHAPTER I

       Table of Contents

CATTARO—NJEGUSHI—CETINJE

       Table of Contents

      I do not know where the East proper begins, nor does it greatly matter, but it is somewhere on the farther side of the Adriatic, the island-studded coast which the Venetians once held. At any rate, as soon as you leave Trieste you touch the bubbling edge of the ever-simmering Eastern Question, and the unpopularity of the ruling German element is very obvious. "I—do—not—speak—German," said a young officer laboriously, "I am Bocchese"; and as we approached the Bocche he emphasised the fact that he was a Slav returning to a Slav land. Party politics run high even on the steamboat.

      We awoke one morning to find the second-class saloon turned into a Herzegovinian camp, piled with gay saddle-bags and rugs upon which squatted, cross-legged, a couple of families

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