Raising Goats For Dummies. Cheryl K. Smith

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breeds but are in the city or just don’t have the space for big goats, minis are ideal. These goats are a cross between a Nigerian Dwarf buck and a doe of the breed you want to miniaturize.

      

Don’t breed a full-sized buck to a Nigerian Dwarf doe. The doe may have problems kidding as a result of too-large kids.

      UNDERSTANDING MINI GENERATIONS

      The kids produced by the first cross of a Nigerian buck with a standard dairy goat is the first generation (F1). Breeding an F1 to another F1 gives you second generation (F2) kids. Breeding F2 to F2 gives you F3 kids and so on, for six generations.

      A kid’s generation is always one generation higher than the lowest generation parent. So if you breed an F2 to an F1, the kids will be F2. Even if you breed an F4 to a F1, the kids will still be F2.

      F1 and F2 goats are considered experimental. F3 through F5 goats are called “American” and an F6 is a purebred. Ask about the generation when buying a registered mini dairy goat. Purebreds are worth more than first generations.

      You can find Mini Nubians and Mini Manchas pretty easily. Finding Oberians, Mini Toggs, Mini Alpines, and Mini Saanens can be more challenging because there are fewer of them. (Chapter 16 tells you more about breeding miniature dairy goats.)

      If you plan to milk and you live in a city that allows backyard goats, these little goats are a good choice. Jenny Grant of the Goat Justice League, which got the Seattle City Council to allow miniature goats within the city limits, recommends the Oberian and the Mini Mancha for urban situations because they’re the quietest.

      A lot of people around the world eat goat meat (about 75 percent, at last count), and it is catching on in the United States, as well. The meat is very lean and delicious. Meat goats are generally not used for milking, and some even have traits that make them undesirable to milk. Most of the breeds don’t make good fiber goats because they have short coats, but the Boer is sometimes and Spanish goat is always an exception.

      Meat goats grow fast and are fantastic brush-eaters. Some breeds are nearly self-sufficient because they evolved in feral conditions. They require much less time for management because they have developed resistance to the parasites, foot rot, and respiratory problems that are so common in other goats.

      Boer goats

Schematic illustration of a South African Boer buck.

      FIGURE 3-6: A South African Boer buck.

      Boers are originally from South Africa, where they were bred for hardiness. They came into the United States from New Zealand and Australia through Canada and continue to grow in popularity. Based on the increased number of men I saw at our local goat conference, the Boers are catching on. (Past conferences have drawn mainly dairy goat owners, who traditionally are women.)

      At least two organizations register Boer goats, including the American Boer Goat Association (ABGA) and the United States Boer Goat Association (USBGA).

      Boers are quite adaptable and hardy, and most are affectionate and mild-mannered. Their adaptability leads them to browse more than dairy goats because they can easily handle both heat and cold. Boers do have some fairly common genetic defects you need to watch for, including extra teats and abnormal testicles.

      

Some breeders of large dairy goats, such as Nubians, cross their does to a Boer bucks. This has the added advantage of selling the kids for milk while freshening the does for another year of milking.

      Myotonic goats

      Myotonic goats, also known as fainting or stiff-legged goats, are so named because of their tendency to go rigid and fall down when they’re startled. This is a genetic defect in a recessive gene that probably started in just one goat and then was continued through breeding. The repeated muscle tightening means that the goats have more muscle and are therefore good meat goats.

      Fainting goats are often much smaller than Boers, weighing in at between 50 and 75 pounds and becoming no more than 25 inches tall. Those raised for meat, such as the Tennessee Meat Goat, can be much bigger — weighing up to 175 pounds or more.

      They come in an array of colors and patterns and have long ears that stick out sideways. They often have long horns that curve backward. They can be shy animals (wouldn’t you be if you kept falling down at the most inopportune times?) but have sweet personalities.

      These goats can be registered by either the Myotonic Goat Registry (MGR) or the International Fainting Goat Association (IFGA). These goats are currently listed as “recovering” on the Livestock Conservancy’s list of rare livestock breeds.

      

Myotonic goats, because of their diminutive size, may be a better choice for a meat goat breeder who has limited space to work with. The bucks can also be crossed with Boer does to grade up to higher meat production.

      Some people buy fainting goats for the novelty of scaring them and watching them drop. The goats have allegedly served another purpose — protecting sheep when a predator comes around. The goat drops and the predator eats the goat instead of the sheep. That’s literally a sacrificial goat!

      Kiko goats

      The Kiko goat is a newer breed that was created in New Zealand purely as a meat goat. Kikos are most often white with long, scimitar-like horns and medium ears that stick out sideways. They can gain substantial weight without supplemental feeding, which is a big plus for producers. If you have substantial range for these goats, they may be even more economical than Boers.

      

The name Kiko means “meat for consumption” in the Maori language.

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