Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics. Группа авторов
Чтение книги онлайн.
Читать онлайн книгу Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics - Группа авторов страница 35
15. H.S. Bui, C. Pang, J.T. Simonnet and B. Pistorio, Cosmetic composition comprising wax dispersions, US Patent Publication 201401054845, assigned to L’Oreal (2014).
16. K. Yoshida, M. Shibata, Y. Ito, G. Nakamura and H. Hosokawa, Control of the hardness of the oil-wax gel by a novel branched wax and application to lipstick Proc. Soc. Cosmetic Scientists Korea, 469-479 (2003).
17. T. Imai, K. Nakamura and M. Shibata, Relationship between the hardness of an oil–wax gel and the surface structure of the wax crystals, Colloids Surfaces A 194, 233–237 (2001).
18. B. G. Park and C. S. Ha, The properties of oil-wax gels with changing lattice structure of wax crystal, Mol. Crystals. Liq. Crystals. 569, 143-150 (2012).
19. Y. Miyazaki and A. G. Marangoni, Structural-mechanical model of wax crystal networks-A mesoscale cellular solid approach, Mater. Res. Express 1, 025101, 1-12 (2014).
20. H. S. Bui, X. Lu, W. H. Yu, and F. Pradier, Compositions containing silicone polymer, wax and volatile solvent, US Patent 7,790,148, assigned to L’Oreal (2010).
21. F. Nicholas. and J. Brooks, Hyperbranched polyalphaolefins enhance anhydrous stick formulations, Cosmetics & Toiletries 123, 61-68 (February 2008).
22. Kose News Release, Construction of world’s first technology for controlling “ultra” fine structure of a lipstick: super shine and color and smooth application. http://www.jpubb.com/en/press/4123/, (April 2009).
23. M. Endo and M. Shibata, Oil gelation ability of a rice bran wax and botanical high-melting-point alcohol mixture, J. Oleo. Sci. 68, 739-745 (2019).
24. I. Tavernier, C. D. Doan, D. V. Walle, S. Danthine, T. Rimaux, and K. Dewettick, Sequential crystallization of high and low melting waxes to improve oil structuring in wax-based oleogels, RSC Adv., 7, 12113-12125 (2017).
25. C. D. Doan, I. Tavernier, M. D. B. Sintang, S. Danthine, D. V. Walle, T. Rimaux, and K. Dewettick, Crystallization and gelation behavior of low- and high melting waxes in rice bran oil: a case-study on berry wax and sunflower wax, Food Biophys., 12, 97-108 (2017).
26. S. Jana and S. Martini, Effect of high-intensity ultrasound and cooling rate on the crystallization behavior of beeswax in edible oils, J. Agric. Food Chem., 62, 10192-10202 (2014).
27. A. J. Martins, M. A. Cerqueira, L. H. Fasolin, R. L. Cunha and A. A. Vicente, Beeswax organogels: influence of gelator concentration and oil type in the gelation process, Food Res. Intl., 84, 170-179 (2016).
28. A. R. Patel, M. Babaahmadi, A. Lesaffer, and K. Dewettick, Rheological profiling of organogels prepared at critical gelling concentrations of natural waxes in a triacylglycerol solvent, J. Agric. Food. Chem., 63, 4862-4869 (2015).
29. H. S. Hwang, M. Singh, J. K. Winkler-Moser, and S. X. Liu, Organogel formation of soybean oil with waxes, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 89, 639–647 (2012).
30. A. I. Blake and A. G. Marangoni, Plant wax crystals display platelet-like morphology, Food Struct., 3, 30-34 (2015).
31. M. Ghosh and S. Bandyopadhyay, Studies on the crystal growth of rice bran wax in a hexane medium, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 82, 229–231 (2005).
32. S. Martini and M. C. Añón, Crystallization of sunflower oil waxes, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc. 80, 525–532 (2003).
33. H. de Clermont-Gallerande, S. Abidh, A. Lauer, S. Navarro, G. Cuvelier, and J. Delarue, Relations between the sensory properties and fat ingredients of lipsticks, OCL (Oilseeds and fats, Crops and Lipids), 25 (5): D502 (2018).
34. S. Abidh, G. Cuvelier, H. de Clermont-Gallerande and J. Delarue, The role of lipid composition in the sensory and physical properties of lipsticks, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc.,96, 1143-1152 (2019).
35. Agilent, Basics of measuring the dielectric properties of materials, Application Note http://academy.cba.mit.edu/classes/input_devices/meas.pdf.
36. J. F. Toro-Vazquez, J. A. Morales-Rueda, E. Dibildox-Alvarado, M. Charó-Alonso, M. Alonzo-Macias and M. M. González-Chávez, Thermal and textural properties of organogels developed by candelilla wax in safflower oil, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 84, 989-1000 (2007).
37. C. D. Doan, D. Van de Wall, K. Dewettick and A. R. Patel, Evaluating the oil-gelling properties of natural waxes in rice bran oil: rheological, thermal, and microstructural study, J. Am. Oil Chem. Soc., 92, 801–811 (2015).
38. L. S. Dassanayake, D. R. Kodali, S. Ueno and K. Sato, Crystallization kinetics of organogels prepared by rice bran wax and vegetable oils, J Oleo Sci. 61, 1-9 (2012).
39. Y. Li, S. Han, Y. Lu, and J. Zhang, Influence of asphaltene polarity on crystallization and gelation of waxy oils, Energy & Fuels 32, 1491-1497 (2018).
*Corresponding author: [email protected]
3
UV Curing of Nail Gels by Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Fluorescent (FL) Light Sources
Michael J. Dvorchak* and Melanie L. Clouser
Dvorchak Enterprises LLC, Monroeville, PA, USA
Abstract
The UV nail gel area has seen a significant growth in the cosmetics industry. The significant performance advantage over traditional nail polishes cannot be under-stated. The ability to take a liquid that has been applied to the human nail and cure it within minutes is the major driving force for the development of UV nail gels. Adhesion of the UV nail gel lacquer can be problematic unless the surface free energy and mechanical properties are taken into account. Since the UV nail gels are so highly cross-linked, the removal can also be problematic and new techniques are being developed to reduce the stress on the human nail. Longevity of the UV nail gel finish is also very important but needs to be buffered with the fact that it will be removed within two weeks. Safety of the UV cure lights, (meth) acrylate monomers and oligomers is an issue and needs to be taken into consideration during their use.
Keywords: Ultra violet, free radical, polymerization, photoinitiator, UV nail gel, oligomers, (meth) acrylate monomer, UV cure polyurethane dispersions
3.1 Introduction
The global UV gel market is reported to be worth $59.31 M by the end of 2020. The Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) is estimated to be at 6.6% [1]. With this in mind it is very important to understand what this technology is and how it is used. The UV nail gel market has its roots in the UV-cure industrial coatings and dental market. The need to go away from the closed high-performance UV light sources to the newer low energy UV-A technology was driven by still accomplishing the cure without sacrificing performance. Many new oligomers and photoinitiators (PIs) were developed to meet the need of the UV-A cure in automotive and aero-space areas. These technologies