Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics. Группа авторов

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Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics - Группа авторов

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might result in poor performance properties of the cured coating.

       3.5.4 Combinatorial Chemistry Technique Used to Mitigate Oxygen Inhibition for Low Energy UV-A Cure Resulting in Tack-Free Surfaces

      As can be seen from above that oxygen inhibition is an issue that needs to be reconciled if one is going to cure UV nail gels. As was shown in Table 3.1 the increase of PI concentration can help override oxygen inhibition. However, Arceneaux does not mention the most efficient type of PI that should be used to obtain the maximum efficiency of the PI as well as overriding the oxygen inhibition issue [6]. Besides the PI issue, the types and variety of oligomers and monomers used in the formulations can have a dramatic effect on cure. Such a complex problem was essentially solved by researchers in the UV cure automotive refinish industry where the same issue was faced in developing a UV cure product using only UV-A light sources and formulations that could override the oxygen inhibition issues.

Table depicts the factors and levels covered in the search for formulations exhibiting tack-free surfaces.

      The development work also revealed in these papers [7, 8] that showed the development of a one-component (1K; komponente; Ger.) UV-A curable clear coat. Issues that these papers raised regarding developing this 1K UV-A curable clear coat are: 1) lack of flexibility in polymers based on radical polymerization, 2) keep the unreacted double bonds very low(≤10%) due to post-cure issues, 3) formulation and coating color due to visible light PI, and 4) primer, base coat and clear coat compatibility [7, 8].

      Curing a UV nail gel with low wattage GA-FL or LED UV certainly needs more in-depth laboratory work as shown by these researchers [7, 8].

      With the obvious issues stated in section 5 the formulator needs to be cognizant of the following questions,

      1 a. Which oligomers should one use to give the best performance during cure with the least amount of oxygen inhibition?

      2 b. Which monomers should one use to give the best performance with the minimum amount of oxygen inhibition?

      3 c. Which PIs should one use to utilize the wavelength emitted by the GA-FL and LED light sources?

      4 d. From an industrial hygiene (IH) standpoint which are the safest acrylate monomers that should be evaluated in developing a nail gel UV-A cured system?

      As was shown earlier in Figure 3.12 the type of oligomer used will have a strong impact on cure and performance. Targeting oligomers that respond best to low wattage GA-FL and LED units should be the formulation chemists top priority.

Graph depicts the High throughput primary screening results based on the evaluation of over 25,000 coatings followed by a statistical analysis.

       3.6.1 Formulating with (Meth) Acrylate Monomers

      It was found [9] that compared to acrylates, methacrylates are much less sensitive to oxygen inhibition. Model compound systems were evaluated to determine the effect of ether groups on polymerization inhibition. They found that the reduction of oxygen inhibition occurs by a series of chain transfer/oxygen scavenging reactions [9].

       3.6.2 Formulating with the Proper Photoinitiator

      The ability to cure the coating with low intensity UV-A light sources requires PIs that operate within the wavelength of the GA-FL and LED units available in the cosmetic marketplace. As was shown in Figure 3.6 and Figure 3.7 the selection criteria for pigmented UV-A formulations require that the PIs used operate at 380 nm and above.

Chemical structure depicts the methacrylates and acrylates that could be considered in UV nail gel technology.

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