Handbook of Enology, Volume 2. Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon

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by acescence: a solvent‐ or glue‐like odor. These wines also have high volatile acidity, but acetic acid is not only responsible for acescence.

      The aroma perception threshold of ethyl acetate is approximately 160 mg/l. Even below this value, while it may not be identifiable, it may spoil wine bouquet with an unpleasant, pungent tang.

      Furthermore, ethyl acetate affects the somatosensorial sensations provoked during tasting. At relatively high concentrations (above 120 mg/l) that are still below the aroma perception threshold, it gives red wines a burning sensation, which reinforces the impression of harshness on the aftertaste. Ethyl acetate contributes to hardness and firmness in red wines. From field observations, an acetic acid concentration of at least 0.90 g/l is required to produce a noticeable acrid, sour aftertaste, which is, in fact, due to the mixture of acetic acid and ethyl acetate.

Schematic illustration of biosynthesis mechanism of fatty acids.

      2.5.2 Fatty Acid Ethyl Esters and Higher Alcohol Acetates

      Fatty acid ethyl esters have aromas of wax and honey. They are present at total concentrations of a few milligrams per liter.

      Acetate esters of higher alcohols (isoamyl acetate and phenylethyl acetate) should also be included among the fermentation esters. These compounds are present in moderate quantities, but have intense, rather unusual odors (banana, rose, and honey). They contribute to the aroma complexity of naturally neutral wines, but may mask some varietal aromas.

      Among these acetate esters, isobutyl acetate (or 2‐methylpropyl acetate) plays a role in enhancing fruity aromas (Cameleyre et al., 2015). In contrast with most acetates of higher alcohols produced during alcoholic fermentation, this substituted acetate increases in concentration during tank/barrel aging and at the start of bottle aging. It is present in red wines in the form of its S enantiomer only, and its aroma is reminiscent of bananas. It is found at average concentrations of 72 μg/l, whereas its aroma perception threshold is about 1,100 μg/l. Nevertheless, despite its infra‐threshold concentration, it is known to contribute to black fruit, fresh fruit, and jammy notes in red wines.

      The formation of all these esters is promoted when fermentation is slow (Bertrand, 1983; Dubois, 1993) and difficult, due to the absence of oxygen, low temperatures, and clarified must.

      2.5.3 Substituted Acid Ethyl Esters

Compounds pH = 3.00 pH = 3.50
0 months 2 months 5 months 29 months 0 months 2 months 5 months 29 months
Hexyl acetate 1.90 1.20 0.00 0.00 1.70 1.50 0.40 0.00
Isoamyl acetate 36.60 13.30 3.10 0.40 36.50 20.60 14.00 2.50
2‐Phenylethyl acetate 11.00 2.40 0.50 0.50 4.80 3.40 2.60 0.88
Ethyl hexanoate 12.20 8.70 6.40 4.30 11.00 8.80 8.40 4.60
Ethyl octanoate 9.30 9.00 7.40 6.40 5.70 5.50 5.50 3.69
Ethyl decanoate 2.70 3.40 3.10 2.00 1.20 1.20 1.40 0.79

      Their

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