Handbook of Enology, Volume 2. Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon

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much on their direct impact as on their ability to regulate the fruitiness of red wines, both in terms of its complexity and its intensity, in particular via perceptive interactions with other compounds (Pineau et al., 2009; Lytra et al., 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015; Cameleyre et al., 2017).

      Alkyl substituted short‐chain fatty acid ethyl esters

      The overall contribution of these ethyl esters, which are present at concentrations below their aroma perception threshold, has been well known for several years (Pineau et al., 2009). Ethyl 2‐methylpropanoate and ethyl 2‐methylbutanoate contribute to the blackberry notes of red wines. Ethyl 2‐methylbuanoate plays a role in enhancing fruitiness (Lytra et al., 2014). The S enantiomer, whose aroma is reminiscent of green apples (Granny Smith) and strawberries, is almost exclusively found in red wines, at average concentrations of 50 μg/l. Its presence particularly intensifies the blackberry notes of wines.

      Hydroxycarboxylic acid ethyl esters

      Alkyl substituted hydrocarboxylic acid ethyl esters

      Ethyl 2‐hydroxy‐4‐methylpentanoate adds a blackberry note to wine (Falcao et al., 2012). Its content is generally higher in red wines than in white wines of the same age (Lytra et al., 2012). In general, white wines contain only the R form, while red wines have both enantiomers at ratios that depend on age. The highest concentrations of the S isomer are found in the oldest wines. The average R/S ratio for ethyl 2‐hydroxy‐4‐methylpentanoate in red wines is 95/5 (m/m). The perception threshold of ethyl (2R)‐2‐hydroxy‐4‐methylpentanoate in a dilute alcohol solution is 126 μg/l or almost twice that of the S enantiomer (55 μl). This clearly shows that these thresholds are dependent on stereochemistry (Table 2.6). The perception threshold for the mixture of the two enantiomers (R/S, 95/5 m/m) is 51 μg/l in a dilute alcohol solution. The two enantiomers have similar aromas, reminiscent of blackberries. In red wines, the presence of these compounds leads to a general intensification of aroma as well as increased fresh black fruit notes.

Compounds Descriptors Average content in red wines (μg/l) Perception threshold in dilute alcohol solution (μg/l) Sensory impact
2‐Methylbutyl (2S)‐acetate Banana 70 313 Enhancer of black fruit, fresh fruit, and jammy aromas
Ethyl (2S)‐2‐methylbutanoate Green apple(Granny Smith), strawberry 50 1.53 Enhancer of black fruit aromas
Ethyl (2R)‐2‐hydroxy‐4‐methylpentanoate Blackberry 400 126 Enhancer of black fruit and fresh fruit aromas
Ethyl (2S)‐2‐hydroxy‐4‐methylpentanoate Blackberry 20 55
Ethyl (3R)‐3‐hydroxybutanoate Fruity, butyric (cheese) 80 63,000 Enhancer of black fruit and fresh fruit aromas
Ethyl (3S)‐3‐hydroxybutanoate Solvent andalcohol 350 21,000

      2.5.4 Esters of Chemical Origin

      The formation of esters continues throughout the aging process, thanks to the presence of nonvolatile acids in wine together with large quantities of ethanol. Research into esterification mechanisms in wine (Ribéreau‐Gayon et al., 1982) showed that, under normal cellar conditions, none of the acids ever reach the equilibrium predicted in theory. The ester content represents approximately 30% of the theoretical limit after 1 year, 50% after 2 or 3 years, and 80% after 50 years. The total ester concentration (regardless of its origins) is governed by the wine's composition and age. It varies from 2 or 3 mEq/l in young wines up to 9 or 10 mEq/l in old wines, in which approximately 10% of the acids are esterified.

      Mono‐acids react with ethanol to form only neutral esters, whereas di‐acids may produce one neutral and one acidic ester (e.g. ethyl tartrate and ethyl hydrogen tartrate). On average, wine contains approximately the same quantity of neutral and acidic esters. The latter contribute to wine acidity.

      Among the other volatile products likely to contribute to wine aroma are volatile phenols and sulfur derivatives. The latter are responsible for off‐odors whose causes and consequences are now well known and are described elsewhere in this volume (Sections 8.4 and 8.6). There are also several compounds that contribute to the varietal aromas of different grape varieties, e.g. terpenes in Muscats (Section 7.2.1). These compounds are also discussed at length in Chapter 7.

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