it by simmering 4 cups (1 liter) of pomegranate juice over medium heat until it’s reduced to ½ cup (125 ml), then store in your refrigerator.
Purslane (Baqli): Also called lamb’s lettuce, lamb’s tongue, or mâché, the leaves of this leafy green vegetable look like little lamb’s tongues and grow in clusters. Its extensive root system allows it to thrive in poor soils and dry conditions (it’s because of this that purslane is often thought of as a weed by those who aren’t familiar with it). Purslane is prized in Middle Eastern cuisine for its delicious, slightly nutty flavor with a hint of bitterness. It’s a favorite ingredient in herb Salad with tangy Dressing and Croutons (page 48).
Roasted Green Wheat (Freekeh): this ancient grain is green wheat that is harvested young, sun-dried, and then fire-roasted. It has a very unique nutty, smoky flavor that is delicious in dishes like Roasted Green wheat with Chicken (page 89). When purchasing, look for coarsely cracked green wheat that smells deeply smoky and is greenish-brown in color.
Rose Water (Ma’ al Ward): this clear liquid is distilled water made from rose petals. Similar to orange blossom water, it is slightly bitter and very fragrant. It is used sparingly, usually in conjunction with orange blossom water, to flavor sweets and sometimes savory dishes. Along with orange blossom water, it is the main flavoring in Rose and Orange Blossom-Scented Milk Pudding (page 127).
Saffron (Zafaran): this spice is the stigmas of the Crocus sativus flower; it can be found in whole threads or ground, but using whole threads is preferred. Saffron has a bittersweet, earthy flavor and should be used sparingly, as using too much may cause a dish to turn overly bitter or metallic. Saffron is deep red in color and gives a lovely golden hue to dishes such as Saffron Rice with Golden Raisins and Pine nuts (page 61). Turmeric can be substituted to achieve a similar color; however, it will not yield the same flavor.
Semolina (Smeed): Coarse or fine-ground durum wheat. It is commonly used to make custard-like dishes, such as Lebanese nights (page 121). It is also used to give a rustic texture to cakes (see Coconut Semolina Cake, page 130), and a crumbly, coarse texture to cookies.
Shredded Phyllo Dough (Kataifi): Phyllo dough that is shredded into thin, vermicelli-like strands. It gives a dish great texture, since it becomes crisp once cooked. In Middle Eastern cuisine, kataifi is commonly shaped into cigars, cones, cups, or nests, and used as the basis for sweets; it is also used to make Sweet Cheese Pastry (page 122). Kataifi is most commonly found frozen; once you’re ready to use it, let it thaw in the fridge overnight and then let it come to room temperature for about an hour before working with it (keep it in its package while thawing so it doesn’t dry out). If you’re making Knafeh bil Jiben you don’t have to take as much care with your kataifi, since it will be crushed anyway. However, if you want to shape the dough to make small sweets it should be handled similarly to phyllo dough so it doesn’t dry out. When you’re ready to use it, lay a piece of plastic wrap on a large baking sheet, then unwrap the kataifi, place it on the prepared sheet, and cover with another piece of plastic wrap. Then lay a towel that has been slightly dampened on top to help keep the dough chilled while you’re working with it.
Sour Black Cherry Pits (Mahlab): A beautifully scented spice that is the dried kernel from sour black cherry pits. The whole kernels are small (about 5 mm long), tear-shaped, and tan colored, but mahlab is also commonly found ground. It smells of cherries and almonds and is slightly sweet, but with a pleasant, nutty bitterness. It gives a lovely flavor to breads, cakes, cookies, and pastries, and is found in Cake Spice Mix (page 29).
Sumac (Sumac): not to be confused with poison sumac, this spice is the dried berry of non-poisonous sumac bushes. Depending on the variety used, sumac’s color can range from brick red to purple to brown. It has a fruity, sour taste similar to lemon, and lends a bright flavor and lovely color to dishes like Roasted Chicken with Flatbread (page 97). It is also frequently used to flavor or garnish dips, such as Bell Pepper walnut Dip (page 72), and is found in thyme Spice Mix (page 29).
Tahini (Tahina): in Middle Eastern cooking, this refers to a beige-colored, thick and creamy paste of ground raw sesame seeds. Sesame seed paste, which is made from roasted sesame seeds, has a slightly different flavor but can be used as a substitute if tahini isn’t available. Tahini has a nutty, slightly bitter flavor and is used frequently in both savory and sweet dishes, such as hummus (page 79), Eggplant Dip (page 64), and Sesame Fudge (page 119). Tahini should be stored in the pantry until opened, but once opened, give it a stir (to equally distribute the oil) and keep it in the fridge for six months to a year.
Tamarind (Tamar Hindi): Literally meaning “indian date,” this fruit grows in curved brown pods on tamarind trees. These bushy trees are indigenous to tropical Africa but have also been cultivated in other tropical areas, including india. The pods’ hard exterior turns brittle when the fruit is ripe, and it protects the seeds and fibrous, edible reddish-brown pulp inside. The pulp is pressed into a moist paste, which is how tamarind is commonly found in grocery stores. Tamarind has a very refreshing sweet/tart taste and is used to flavor savory sauces and make tamarind Juice Drink (page 137).
Basic Recipes
Many recipes in this section are so basic that they cross cultural borders and can be used in different applications in any number of cuisines from around the world Creamy Garlic Mayonnaise, one of the variations of Creamy Garlic Sauce (Toumieh) (below), which is an integral addition to Spiced Shawarma Chicken Wraps (Shawarma Dajaj) (page 92), can be used as you would use any other mayonnaise. Apple Vinegar (Khul Toofah) (page 26) not only has a whole host of applications, but is probably one of the tastiest vinegars you'll ever experience (more like a cross between apple cider and vinegar than anything else… it’s so much sweeter than you'd expect). The Spice Mixes (Baharat) (page 29) are also an indispensible resource; I like to keep a jar of Seven Spice Mix (page 29) in my pantry at all times; for a quick way to add a huge flavor punch, nothing beats a sprinkle of this mix on red meat, poultry, or fish before cooking.
Creamy Garlic Sauce TOUMIEH
Toumieh, which is commonly referred to as “Toum,” is a very potent garlic sauce that is ubiquitous in Middle Eastern kitchens. Toum is a difficult sauce to make and master, since in its authentic state it is just an emulsification of garlic and lemon juice in oil, made with a mortar and pestle. If the sauce breaks and the oil separates there is no recovering it, but it is possible to save it with a thickener (although at this point the sauce is no longer pure Toumieh). This sauce can be used as the base for soups, sauces, salad dressings, or dips; or as its own condiment eaten with plain bread, in sandwiches, on rice, or with other finished dishes.
The variation I give for this recipe is basically just a garlic mayonnaise. The egg acts as a stabilizer, making this sauce much easier to master and faster to make than original toumieh. Incidentally, this is the sauce that you will commonly find used in restaurants in the Middle East, particularly in foods like Spiced Shawarma Chicken wraps. This sauce can be made using two egg whites or one whole egg; however, using a whole egg yields a much creamier, richer tasting sauce. If you’re feeling adventurous, feel free to make the sauce the
