Walking in Hungary. Tom Chrystal

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to Diósjenő

       Walk 8 – Drégelypalánk to Diósjenő

       The Bükk

       Walk 9 – The High Bükk: Szilvásvárad to Répáshuta

       Walk 10 – The High Bükk: Lillafüred to Répáshuta

       Walk 11 – The Beehive Stones: Eger to Cserépváralja

       The Mátra

       Walk 12 – Mátraháza to Mátraszentistván

       Walk 13 – Ágasvár and Csörgő-patak

       Walk 14 – The Mátra ridge way (east section)

       The Zemplén

       Walk 15 – Nagy-Milic and Füzér Castle

       Walk 16 – Hollóháza to Füzér

       Walk 17 – Rostalló to Mogyoróska

       Walk 18 – Telkibánya to Regéc

       Walk 19 – Mogyoróska to Boldogkőváralja

       Walks in Transdanubia

       The Bakony

       Walk 20 – Cuha Valley

       Walk 21 – Ördög-árok

       The Balaton Uplands

       Walk 22 – Kuruc-körút

       Walk 23 – Badacsony to Szigliget

       Walk 24 – Gyulakeszi to Köveskál

       The Buda Hills

       The Mecsek

       Walk 25 – Magyaregregy to Óbánya

       Walk 26 – Óbánya Circuit (via Réka-vár)

       Walk 27 – Kisújbánya to Váralja

       Walk 28 – Jakab-hegy

       The Pilis and Visegrád hills

       Walk 29 – Dobogókő Circuit

       Walk 30 – Pilisszántó Circuit

       Walk 31 – Nagy-Kevély

       Walk 32 – Szent László Valley and Visegrád Fortress

       The Vértes

       Walk 33 – Southern Vértes Escarpment

       Walk 34 – Szárliget to Várgesztes

       Appendix 1

       The Hungarian Language and Notes on Pronunciation

       Appendix 2

       Glossary of Useful Words and Phrases

       Appendix 3

       Glossary of Hungarian Topographical Terms

       Appendix 4

       Useful Addresses and Telephone Numbers

      When you go out into the big forest

       Look not behind you

       Lest your heart be heavy

       As you set foot in a foreign land.

       (Hungarian folk song)

      Every nation projects an image of its landscape to the outside world. In Hungary it is the Great Plain, and most visitors to Hungary are unaware that large areas of the country are covered in highlands and rolling hills with deep wooded valleys, high karst meadows and rocky viewpoints. A walk along the ridges of the Mátra and the Börzsöny or the limestone outcrops of the Bükk will dispel the myth that Hungary is a flat country. Hungary’s highland chain of humpback mountains, limestone plateaux and buttes was formed by a combination of volcanic activity and the raising of tropical seabed sediments. There are about 13 000km (8025 miles) of tracks and trails in the hills. For centuries they have been used by medieval miners, Turkish janissaries (soldiers), pillaging Hussites, herders, beekeepers, charcoal-burners and foundry workers. These ancient highways are now a network of walking paths with a system of waymarks first set up in the nineteenth century.

      This introductory chapter provides practical information about getting to Hungary and what to do on arrival. There is advice on the public transport network, accommodation, maps, the waymarking system and access. Finally, there are introductions to the natural, social and walking history of the hills.

      The routes are set out in the guide by region. For simplicity’s sake the highland areas of Hungary are divided into two main regions: Northern Hungary (north and east of the Danube) including the Aggtelek karst, Börzsöny, Mátra, Bükk and Zemplén; and Transdanubia (west of the Danube) including the Bakony, Balaton Uplands, Buda Hills, Mecsek, Pilis and Vértes. The summary map of Hungary shows the approximate position of each region.

      All the major highland groups of Hungary are described and each region has an introduction including a brief description of the hills and their position, regional history, useful information about how to get there, and points of interest on or near the walks. Individual route instructions provide a short facts section: a summary of the route; walking distance; which map to buy; local public transport; refreshment stops if any; and a brief description of the type of walking to be expected. Distances are initially calculated in kilometres. Miles are given in brackets with the conversion roughly rounded to the nearest half mile. Alternative routes, diversions and quick escapes are clearly demarcated from the main description. Timings are not given as experience suggests that they depend on the fitness of the walker. The walks are not aimed at the incredibly fit, and even the longest route should take no longer than a day at moderate speed. Accompanying the route information is a route map. Every walk stands alone but a few can be linked up to lengthen the route. Hungary’s rich and complex history ensures that the walking passes many interesting features from fortress ruins to beehive stones. Points of interest listed in the introduction to each regional section are highlighted in bold in the main text.

      Finally, the appendices supply an introduction to the Hungarian language – a list of simple words and phrases to help the English

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