to aid Hungarian walking map interpretation; and a list of useful addresses.
Getting to Hungary
Visas
British visitors to Hungary require a valid passport with at least six months before expiry. Nationals of selected European countries can enter with an identity card – check with the Hungarian embassy for an up-to-date list. Citizens of the European Union do not require a visa for stays of up to six months but citizens of the USA, Canada, South Africa and New Zealand can only stay up to 90 days without an extension. Hungarian border guards are generally not difficult to deal with if you fulfil the above criteria but expect them to be suspicious if you cross the border on foot carrying a backpack. Visa requirements change from time to time – always check the latest position with the Hungarian embassy before making travel arrangements.
Travelling to Hungary
The Hungarian national airline is MALÉV but British Airways, KLM, Alitalia and Delta have regular flights to Hungary although this list is not exhaustive. Flights arrive at Budapest Ferihegy international airport. Rail travel across Western Europe can be as expensive as flying, but students and travellers under 26 might consider a European rail pass also valid for travel within Hungary. The over-26 rail pass can be expensive if coming from as far as the UK, Ireland or Scandinavia as the journey to Budapest crosses several zones. Travelling around Hungary by train is so cheap it is probably not worth the outlay. Eurolines runs regular coach services from all over Europe to Budapest, although the journey takes 25 hours from London. If travelling from Western Europe by car the main entry point is through Austria at the busy Hegyeshalom border checkpoint, but expect delays during holiday periods. Hungary’s major highway, the M1, starts from here and it is necessary to pay a toll to use it. (See Getting Around Hungary below for an explanation of the system.) If planning a more circuitous route into Hungary – via Slovakia, for example – check with the Hungarian embassy first, as some of these border crossings are for Slovakian and Hungarian citizens only.
Vadálló-kövek,Visegrád Hills,Walk 29
Money
The Hungarian currency is the forint and can be obtained from a few travel agents in countries of the European Union, but take some cash and travellers’ cheques. Exchanging money in Hungary is usually commission-free, but exchange booths at international arrival points always have a poor rate. Ignore approaches from the illegal money-dealers. Hotels and banks also offer poor rates, so shop around the dozens of exchange booths in central Budapest for the best deal. Instant access to cash is easy for holders of ATM or credit cards as cash dispensing machines can be found in cities and larger towns (but not in villages). Internationally recognised cards are acceptable, and machines in Hungary have an English-language option on the display screen. Bear in mind that every time you make a withdrawal your bank back home will probably charge you a transaction fee based on a percentage of the amount withdrawn. Credit cards are accepted in most shops and restaurants in Budapest and other tourist destinations. Credit card fraud is present but probably no higher than any other European country.
Budapest
Arriving at Budapest
If arriving by air, Ferihegy international airport is 20km (15 miles) from central Budapest. There are plans to build a train link direct from the terminal to central Budapest, but until then there is an information point in the arrivals building with English-speaking staff. The most expensive options are the door-to-door shuttle service; book at one of the desks in the terminal. A taxi is good value if travelling in a group, but use only the regulated City Taxi and Teletaxi companies who charge a fixed fee. A cheaper option is the airport shuttle bus departing every half hour from the front of the terminal building. It terminates near Deák tér in central Budapest, convenient for the Metro, trams and the 24- hour tourist information office on Vörösmarty tér. This shuttle service stops running at about 11pm. Shuttle bus and taxi drivers speak enough English, but for seasoned travellers looking for the cheapest option catch the municipal airport bus (Rep-Tér busz). It also departs from the front of the terminal building, but you will need some loose change or low denomination notes. The driver is unlikely to speak English and the journey terminates at the suburb of Kőbánya, from where it is necessary to get on the Metro (head up the steps of the shopping centre) to continue the journey to Deák tér in central Budapest.
Bell tower, Jósvafő, Aggtelek, Walk 1
If travelling by train from Western and Northern Europe international arrivals terminate at Budapest Keleti (Budapest East) although a few services arrive at Budapest Déli (Budapest South). Both stations have Metro connections. There are several tourist agencies operating from Budapest Keleti, but head for the Hungarian State Railway (MÁV) information office which is to the right and at the top of the stairs leading down to the main concourse.
International coaches from capital cities in Europe arrive at Budapest Népliget bus station. Take the Metro (Blue Line) for the centre of town. There are left-luggage facilities (csomagmegőrző) at Budapest Népliget bus station and Budapest Keleti railway station.
Accommodation
The Hungarian tourist authority, Tourinform, has several branches in Budapest (see Appendix 4) and one of them is open 24 hours. The helpful staff can speak English or German and will gladly provide a copy of their free map of the city and public transport network. Unfortunately Tourinform do not book accommodation, but what they will do is supply leaflets and brochures and point you in the direction of private accommodation agencies who add a booking fee to the price. As long as the familiar big hotel chains are avoided, bed and breakfast at a medium-sized hotel or panzió in or near central Budapest can be very reasonable. As the city is a good base for many of the walks in the guide, a family or group might consider a self-catering apartment in the centre of the town. Ask at the accommodation agency for a viewing before you make a decision. For budget accommodation the Tourinform office publishes free booklets listing backpacker hostels and campsites.
Navigating Budapest
The centre of Budapest is a safe and pleasant place to walk around, although the usual warnings about pickpockets and bag thieves apply. Beware of con men posing as plainclothes policemen asking to see your passport. In the event of a problem the 24-hour Tourinform office on Vörösmarty tér will offer assistance and contact the police.
There is an extensive public transport system of buses, trams, trolley buses, Metro and a suburban railway (HÉV). Railway and bus stations with services to walking areas have a Metro connection. Buy a travel pass to get around most of Budapest or, if taking a more relaxed approach to sightseeing, a ten-ticket booklet (tízes jegytömb). Otherwise individual tickets for hopping on the occasional tram are very cheap. The universal public transport ticket is available at Metro stations, newspaper kiosks or machine dispensers. A word of warning: a system of self-validation is in operation and it is important to validate the ticket at one of the machines at the top of escalators in the Metro or attached to handrails in buses and trams. There are now posters in English explaining the different types of ticket available and how the system works. Inspectors carry out regular checks and will not accept excuses that you cannot speak Hungarian or were unable to find a place to buy a ticket. If travelling on the HÉV suburban railway, be aware that the little tickets bought in the Metro or in booths are only valid as far as the city boundary which, if heading for Szentendre in order to walk in the Pilis, ends at Békásmegyer. Ticket inspectors on the HÉV seem to be more flexible and will probably only ask for the surplus charge for the rest of the journey, but it is better to buy the full ticket at the station to avoid potential problems.
If you have a few days in the city the Budapest
