Some families will ply you with wine all night and insist on speaking to you in pidgin German.
Villagers, Regéc, Zemplén,Walk 18
Vendégház; Panzió; Szálló/Hotel/Fogadó
These are lumped together because prices and facilities often overlap. The standard of guesthouses and hotels in rural areas is usually excellent and, although more expensive than budget accommodation, are good value for money. Prices quoted are for the room, and solo travellers will have to pay the full price for occupying a double room. A vendégház, or guesthouse, can be as expensive as a hotel or as cheap as a turistaház. It is a rare practice and not officially condoned, but beware of establishments with dual-pricing systems penalising foreigners. Guesthouses often have access to a kitchen and dining room for self-catering, although home-cooked meals are also available at extra cost.
A panzió is a small- to medium-sized hotel offering bed and breakfast and may also have a restaurant and bar for non-residents. A hotel or szálloda is the most expensive option. A selection of panziós and hotels are marked on Hungarian walking maps. A fogadó is Hungarian for inn and is not an indication of price. The local tourist office will provide a list or brochure of accommodation for their area, although a small number of guesthouses and hotels is listed in the MTSZ publication Természetbarát Szálláshelyek mentioned above.
Getting Around Hungary
Driving
Hungary is not a large country and many walking routes are about an hour’s drive from Budapest. Driving is a comfortable way to get to the walk-in points and there are circular walks in the guide ideal for car users. With few exceptions there is always somewhere to park free in a village. Car hire is available at the airport but one of the many travel companies in Budapest can arrange it for you. Road surfaces on motorways and major roads are generally of a high standard but deteriorate as you enter Budapest. Many village streets and back roads are unsurfaced.
The downside of driving on Hungary’s smart new motorways is the toll (autópályadíj) which is payable on the Ml and the M3. Purchase a sticker (matrica) at a toll office at the entrance to the motorway or the nearest petrol station. Look for the sign: Autópálya matrica kapható. Ask Van egy árlista angolul? for the English-language leaflet explaining the system and latest charges. Stickers are also sold at many post offices or offices of the Magyar Autóklub (Hungarian Automobile Association). When buying a sticker you will be asked to fill in a registration form. Display the sticker prominently on the windscreen as it will be scanned by special cameras along the highway. There is a heavy fine for not paying. If travelling frequently it is worth buying a nine-day (heti) or monthly (havi) ticket.
Points worth mentioning about driving around Hungary: thirdparty insurance is compulsory; driver and passenger(s) including passengers in the back seats must wear seat belts; children under the age of 12 may not travel in the front and must use a child seat; and outside built-up areas dimmed headlights are compulsory during daylight hours. The speed limit is 50km/h (30mph) in built-up areas; 90km/h (55mph) on other roads; and 130km/h (80mph) on the motorway/highway. The police regularly set speed traps and also carry out spot-checks so always have all your documents, including passport and motorway toll registration form, with you while driving. A hazard to look out for on some main roads and rural areas is poorly visible horse-drawn carts.
Parking space is becoming increasingly limited in Budapest and traffic wardens patrol the streets to catch people whose parking meter ticket has expired. In the worst cases the local authority tows away offending cars. If you are involved in a car accident while in Hungary report it to the police, as damaged vehicles attempting to leave the country without a certificate will be detained. Drinking even the smallest amount of alcohol while driving is an offence.
Public Transport
All the walking research in this guide has tested the feasibility of using public transport to get on and off the walking routes. During the 1950s many waymarked routes were set up to start and finish at a train station or bus stop, reflecting the emphasis on cheap holidays as well as the lower levels of car ownership. Nowadays it is still possible to come out of the forest to a lonely stretch of road and find a bus stop with frequent services, but do not depend on it. Using public transport is also a good way of getting to know a country and it is a safe way to travel in Hungary. The guide attempts to ensure that a route does not leave a walker stranded and that there is ample opportunity to catch a bus or train back to a town or, failing that, there is likely to be accommodation nearby. Whether travelling by bus or train, avoid Friday afternoons. The introduction to each region in the guide provides details about local public transport, but the following is a general introduction to bus and train travel in Hungary.
Rail
The Hungarian State Railway (MÁV) has a large network radiating out from Budapest to many walk-in points. Get to the ticket halls of Budapest’s mainline stations well in advance of departure to avoid long queues. A more relaxed method is to buy tickets in advance at MÁV’s air-conditioned central booking office (see Appendix 4). Ask for an English-speaking member of staff. Ticket-sellers and inspectors are unlikely to speak fluent English but are usually patient when dealing with phrasebook Hungarian. There are no complicated saver tickets and cheap returns; price is calculated by the kilometre. For student concessions travellers must hold a European rail pass bought in their country of origin.
Ordinary trains are quite efficient but expect to stand in the corridor on many journeys. First class is an alternative, but sometimes the standard is very poor and not worth the extra cost. Services are classed according to their speed and how often they stop: gyors (fast – stops at main stations only); sebes (stops at smaller towns); and személy (stops at every halt). Air-conditioned Inter City trains (‘IC’ on timetables) are fast and comfortable but you must reserve the seat and pay a booking fee. Specify if you do not want to sit in the smoking coach: nem dohányzó. To find your seat on an Inter City train examine the ticket for the coach (kocsi) and seat (hely) numbers. With a few exceptions, such as lines with unmanned stations, you will be fined for boarding a train without a ticket. Small red trains (kispiros) operating from provincial railway stations get closer to some walking routes. Some hills can be accessed using the little forest trains running from Easter to mid-October.
Cave house museum, Szomolya, Bükk, Walk 11
Summary of railway stations in Budapest and the walking areas they serve:
Budapest Keleti Pályaudvar (Eastern Railway Station): Aggtelek, Bükk, Mátra, Zemplén
Budapest Nyugati Pályaudvar (Western Railway Station): Börzsöny, Pilis
Budapest Déli Pályaudvar (Southern Railway Station): Bakony, Balaton, Mecsek, Vértes.
Bus
Most long-distance buses are comfortable, efficient and air-conditioned, and a pleasant way to get to the hills, but many villages can only be reached by changing for a local bus at smaller towns and provincial capitals. Villages that are popular tourist destinations can be reached by direct bus, but there are likely to be only a couple of services a day.
Rural timetables are often geared to commuting workers, therefore morning buses depart at an unearthly hour. To avoid becoming stranded plan your journey carefully. Pre-booking for long-distance services is possible at city bus stations and will allow you to get on the bus before everybody else and secure a seat; but make sure you are there well before departure. For rural buses, have plenty of small change ready. Country bus drivers do not speak English, but the digital display
