the Cotswold Hills was in the tropics and completely underwater. The depth of these tropical seas varied over time, with the deeper waters producing thick clays and the shallower seas forming limestone from the shells of marine creatures living and dying in the waters.
Rolling hillside east of the scarp edge near Snowshill (Route 22, Day 2)
More recently (geologically speaking) the land has tilted, leading to a steep scarp slope on the northwest edge of the region and rolling hills towards the south and east. This is illustrated in the steep slopes above Cheltenham (Route 20) and the gentler, plateau-like terrain above the Slaughters (Route 4).
The clay rocks are known as ‘Lias’ – a term invented by 18th-century quarry workers to describe the layered rock, and adopted by William Smith, a canal-building engineer who went on to become the ‘Father of Geology’ (See Route 9 for more on William Smith). The limestone is Oolitic – where the regular structure of spherical crystals looks like a collection of eggs. This is divided into two groups: Inferior Oolites are the older of the two, and tend to be found on the scarp slopes of the northwest Cotswolds; Greater Oolites are more typically found on the gentler slopes outside the north west, and form the region’s traditional honey-coloured building limestone, the colour being typically more pronounced towards the north of the region. Its evenness of grain (enabling it to be cut in any direction) and durability made it the preferred building stone for many prestigious buildings, such as St Paul’s Cathedral.
Glacial and post-glacial meltwater rivers have also contributed to the sometimes surprisingly hilly nature of the Cotswolds – with the Stroud valleys (Routes 19 and 22) being good examples of deeply-incised river valleys in the region.
The greater presence of clays to the south end of the Cotswolds means there is a greater chance here of encountering boggy, slow-drying ground; when these begin to ‘bog out’ or flood, routes in the north are more likely to still be rideable.
Wildlife, plants and flowers
This heron on the Kennet and Avon Canal seems remarkably unafraid of humans (Route 6)
The Cotswolds area is of national importance for some of the smaller and shyer species of wildlife. The watercourses in particular are among the last remaining strongholds of the nationally scarce water vole, although even here it is a rare sighting. Otters are beginning to make a comeback along the headwaters of the Thames; dragon and damselflies are rather more common sightings.
On dry land, hares and fallow deer are frequent sightings; less common are glimpses of weasels, badgers and foxes. Unimproved grassland, hay meadows and common areas are often host to sunbathing adders and all sorts of butterflies, including several varieties of fritillary and blue butterflies.
Birdwatchers may get frequent sightings of the red kite, or a more commonplace buzzard circling overhead. Skylarks warble high in the sky, with swallows performing acrobatic displays at a lower altitude, and herons can sometimes be seen on the banks of canals and rivers.
Ancient beech woodland can be found along the scarp slopes near Winchcombe; other common trees throughout the Cotswolds include oak, ash, hawthorn, willow, maple and hazel. Traditionally these (willow in particular) were coppiced or pollarded.
The fields near Snowshill (Route 22) are transformed when the lavender comes out in late summer
In spring, pungent white flowers of wild garlic or a blue-purple carpet of bluebells (often both together) cover the floors of limestone woodlands. Come summer, prolific wildflowers such as blue meadow cranesbill (wild geraniums) and orchids, and common buttercups and daisies, adorn the grassy verges. In fields, green or golden cereals and the bright yellow of oil-seed rape are commonplace, with two less-common crops being the purple flowers of flax and lavender. If you’re lucky you may see bright splashes of red where poppies have grown among the crops.
History
The Cotswolds have a long history of human settlement, with a few early finds dating back to the Stone Age. However, the earliest records of widespread settlement in the region begin around 4000BC in the Neolithic era (the late Stone Age). Some places, such as Salmondsbury Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) near Bourton-on-the-Water (Routes 4 and 7) are thought to have been farmed continuously since that time. Burial chambers from Neolithic to Roman times are commonplace – such as the long barrows of Belas Knap (near Route 22, Day 1) and Hetty Pegler’s Tump (close to Route 16).
The Romans left many signs of their presence in the 1st to 5th centuries: Corinium forms the basis of modern-day Cirencester; the remnants of several Roman roads such as the Fosse Way and Ryknield Street still criss-cross the region; and archaeological evidence suggests several wealthy Romans had villas in the region. When the Romans eventually went south, Angles and (more often) Saxons moved in, with Alfred the Great (of Wessex) and Aethelstan (the first King of England) being of notable mention.
Northleach was granted a market charter in AD1227 (Route 18)
During the late Dark and early Middle Ages the region became wealthy from sheep-farming, particularly after fuller’s earth – a local type of clay rich in silica – was discovered to be excellent for removing grease from raw fleece. The wool merchants spent some of their considerable wealth on restoring or rebuilding the market towns and churches of the region.
In the 18th and 19th centuries transport routes by canal and railway grew rapidly across the region, but little new industry was attracted as the area had no nearby source of coal for power. Nowadays the major industries are tourism and agriculture.
Art, culture and local festivities
One of the organisers of the Tetbury Woolsack Races lifts the 60lb woolsack onto his upper back – the position most contestants use to run with it
With the home of Shakespeare to the north and the Georgian grandeur of Bath to the south, it should come as no surprise that the Cotswolds are home to a thriving cultural scene. Tourist information centres and online websites (see Appendix E) are good sources of information for current events. Local magazines such as Cotswold Life also highlight upcoming events.
The more unusual events in the region include:
Tetbury Woolsack Races (May), where contestants race between two pubs, up and down a hill with a 1:4 gradient, while carrying a 60lb sack of wool.
Robert Dover’s Cotswold Olimpicks (May), where the highlight of events is shin-kicking. This version of the Olympic games has been going for over 400 years.
Cooper’s Hill Cheese Rolling Festival (May/June), where contestants chase a Double Gloucester cheese down a hill whose gradient approaches 1:1.
Bourton-on-the Water river football (August), where the shin-deep river forms the pitch and goalposts are set up under the bridges.
Morris dancing can be seen throughout the year, often in busier tourist towns and villages. Its origins are lost in time, but two main theories suggest either it started as a fertility ritual or as a war dance.
Stow-on-the-Wold’s
