those new to cycling or on longer routes. These do not need to be your only layer – they easily fit underneath most pairs of more stylish and loose-fitting shorts (many shorts aimed at mountain bikers are designed in this way). You can also get padded cycling underwear if you prefer the two-layer approach. Most cyclists wouldn’t ride without some form of proper cycling shorts!
Breathable upper and lower outer layers
The British weather can change notoriously quickly, especially on higher ground, and a sunny day can quickly become windy and wet. The number and type of layers you should wear will depend on the time of year, but be careful not to overburden yourself. This is very much a personal preference, but as a minimum a lightweight, breathable and quick-drying jacket that is both windproof and waterproof will make poor weather (expected or not) much more bearable. If it is also in a hi-visibility colour such as yellow or orange, with reflective patches, it will improve your safety for no extra weight. Breathability is important to allow sweat created going uphill (or into strong winds) to escape.
Trouser legs should ideally be close-fitting, particularly around the ankles, to avoid catching in the chain ring. If they are not, tuck them into your socks.
Cycling gloves
Shock-absorbing patches in the palms offer more comfort to your arms, particularly on off-road sections where vibrations are more intense. Outside the summer season your hands will chill surprisingly quickly in wet or cool conditions; full-fingered waterproof gloves are therefore preferable.
Shades
These are extremely useful – even on a rainy day. As well as reducing glare from bright or low sun, they also keep flying insects, mud and driving rain out of your eyes. Some cyclists wear clear shades on every ride.
Cycling shoes/clip-in pedals
Stiff cycling shoes are useful, but adding SPD plates to ‘clip in’ is best left until you’re sure it’s worth the money and the time getting used to them
It’s worthwhile wearing cycle shoes. They may look like normal trainers or leisure shoes, but they have stiffened soles that prevent foot pain and long-term problems associated with the concentrated pressure of cycling.
As your cycling progresses and you tackle longer and harder routes, clip-in pedals may become worthwhile. These positively lock your feet to the pedals, requiring a heel-twist to unlock. Besides keeping feet secure on rough ground, they allow you to pull up on the pedals as well as pushing down.
Most cycle shoes feature attachment points for the shoe cleats, which are supplied with the pedals, so clip-in pedals can be added later. However, the ‘locked-in’ feeling can be unnerving if you are not used to it, so only make this progression when you are confident.
What to take
Which type of bike?
All the routes in this book could be done on road bikes, in which case you will need to follow the on-road detours marked on the maps and highlighted in the sidebar beside some route descriptions. But you’ll have more fun, and be able to explore quieter trails and tracks, if you’re prepared to take a mountain bike or a hybrid (or ‘sturdy’) bike, which will manage the off-road sections fine in dry conditions. In wet conditions, the best bike to take, if you wish to tackle the off-road sections, will be a mountain bike.
Other basic equipment
Reputable cycle hire centres will usually provide you with a lock, pump and helmet free of charge. Most will also provide a small repair kit (enough to change an inner tube), but you may well have to ask for this. A lock is a good idea if you plan to leave your cycle unattended.
Although many hire centres will encourage you to wear a helmet, there is no requirement under UK law to wear one and it is entirely up to individual cyclists to decide for themselves. Parents should bear in mind younger children’s vulnerability and instability; protective gear comes in all shapes and colours these days and will not necessarily seem ‘uncool’ or off-putting to young people.
Toolkit
Appendix D contains detailed information about the tools you might need on a cycle trip – including a step-by-step puncture repair guide.
Water bottles
These (one or two, depending on route length) can be held in frame-mounted bottle cages.
Luggage
Although it is possible to carry day kit in a small rucksack, it is much more pleasant and comfortable to carry things in a handlebar bag, rear rack bag or (for larger loads) panniers. Handlebar bags with a clear top pocket to carry a map can be particularly useful. If you use electronic rather than paper maps you may prefer the type that securely holds a small tablet. Smartphone apps (such as Strava or MapMyRide) for cycling are becoming increasingly common; they provide electronic mapping and a log (along with stats) of your route, and they may well become the norm in the future. But beware: satellite GPS eats batteries. Many cyclists also complain of poor visibility in bright light, and smartphones are expensive to replace if damaged by rain, mud or falls.
All luggage should be properly and securely fitted using appropriate brackets, with panniers also requiring a rear rack. Beware of wheels becoming snagged by loose straps or floppy panniers.
Maps
The size of this book constrains the scale of mapping that can be used within it; as such, it is advisable to take with you some form of larger-scale mapping, such as Ordnance Survey (OS) 1:50K Landranger or 1:25K Explorer sheets. (Downloaded electronic versions are good, but beware of relying on online-only versions such as Open Street Map or Google Maps, as these require a strong mobile signal, lots of battery power, a clear view of the sky and phone-based satellite GPS.)
Explorer: sheet 45 covers much of the northern Cotswolds; elsewhere you will need sheets 155, 156, 167, 168, 179, 180, 191 or 205
Landranger: sheets 151, 163, 164, 172 or 173
Relevant local sheets seem to be becoming less commonly available in local village stores and petrol stations, and are perhaps best bought in advance of a visit.
Waymarking and access
Gates
Gates are very common in the Cotswolds – expect to find one at each end of every field and across any nice off-road downhill
Gates abound on entry to/exit from and between fields, particularly on bridleways (rather than byways). I have only mentioned gates where they are vital for navigation, but if you assume there will be a gate at the start and end of every field and across any good downhill off-road trail, you won’t go far wrong!
Waymarking signs
Many of the routes in this book make use of Sustrans National Cycle Network routes. These are often waymarked with bright blue stickers on lamp posts and other street furniture – places where the signs are easy to spot and harder for bored kids to remove or redirect than conventional fingerposts. They can be very useful, particularly in built-up areas.
Rights
