Gypsy Horse Fairs in May and October.
Levellers Day in Burford (May) celebrates a 1649 pro-democracy demonstration against Cromwell by some of his New Model Army.
Food and drink
In a region that owes much of its former prosperity to wool, it should come as no surprise that lamb is a local speciality. The ‘Cotswold Lion’ sheep, introduced by the Romans, produces very fine-quality wool, and its meat tends to be milder and less ‘gamey’ than other breeds. Another speciality is Gloucestershire Old Spot pork, whether as a sausage cob from Huffkins in Burford (Route 18) or as a full-blown pork belly dinner at the Slaughters Country Inn (Route 4).
On the northern edge of the Cotswolds is the Vale of Evesham, widely regarded as the fruit and vegetable basket of Britain. Asparagus and soft tree fruits are specialities that make their way into many Cotswolds recipes.
The olde worlde Englishness typical of Cotswolds villages lends itself to a time-honoured tradition: the cream tea. A well-earned treat after a good workout on the bike!
Local treats worth burning some calories for: asparagus, a Cotswold cream tea and a pint of local real ale
The region has a thriving real ale scene with too many microbreweries to mention. Wychwood and Hook Norton are the larger and better-known breweries (Wadworth’s also historically brewed in Burford). Lesser-known breweries include Donnington (near Stow), Goffs (near Winchcombe), Cotswold Lion (near Cheltenham) and Stroud (in Stroud, naturally).
As usual in the UK, wine aficionados have few local choices, but of note is the Co-op’s recent (2010) establishment of a vineyard near Cirencester, beside woods believed to be a former Roman vineyard. Their first batch of wine is due to market in 2014.
Getting around
By train
Travellers intending to use trains to get around the region should read Appendix C for more information on relevant train operating companies and their main requirements in relation to carrying bikes. The main routes run from Birmingham to Bristol (via Cheltenham); Swindon to Cheltenham; Oxford to Worcester; Birmingham to Stratford; and Worcester to Stratford.
By car
Parking in the Cotswolds is strictly controlled in many places, both in pay and display car parks and on the roadside. However, it is often possible to find free parking close to many of the routes – just ensure that any vehicle is parked legally and with consideration for residents, who have to put up with visitors invading their world every summer! Also remember that farmers often need spontaneous access to apparently overgrown field entrances, and that agricultural vehicles may need a wide turning circle close to and opposite gates.
Individual route descriptions suggest parking options available locally. Further parking information can be found online at Parkopedia www.parkopedia.co.uk.
When to go
In autumn, the leaves of many of the local trees turn a fantastic shade of red. These are Acer (maple) trees at the world-renowned Westonbirt Arboretum near Malmesbury (near Route 21)
The best time to cycle in the Cotswolds is in early summer. Throughout the summer, days are longer, the weather is warmer (if not always sunnier!) and routes tend to be much less muddy than in winter. On the downside, accommodation and transport are busier, more expensive and get booked up earlier; vegetation begins to invade paths; and popular centres such as Bourton-on-the-Water, Broadway, Bibury and Winchcombe can get heaving (especially at weekends). However, peace and quiet can be found just a couple of kilometres away from these places – even in midsummer.
Early autumn and late spring can also offer great cycling: the weather can often be dry and sunny (if windy); the days are still reasonably long and vegetation is less of an issue. Accommodation is cheaper and less busy than in summer, as are trains and tourist centres, but festivals are fewer.
But beware the Jekyll-and-Hyde nature of off-road surfaces. When dry, the trails are hard-baked and although they may be bouncy or even bone-shaking they usually offer a relatively easy-going surface. Light or short-lived rain will not have a major effect on this once the ground has dried out in spring. Once wet-through, however, the surface can acquire the thick gloopy consistency of a bog, and may flood.
Unless you like thick, clarty, dauby sticky stuff, winter is definitely not recommended for the novice cyclist, and even the more experienced cyclist may wish to stick more to the roads. However, for the experienced and prepared cyclist, particularly one who enjoys a thoroughly muddy off-road challenge, winter offers a quiet and adventurous angle to a cycling visit to the Cotswolds.
All of the route descriptions in this book assume dry summer conditions.
Accommodation
Accommodation is widely available throughout the Cotswolds, although there are only a few hostels. Due to its popularity with tourists, the region’s hotels and B&Bs can seem quite expensive, especially in the summer season. The high demand for rooms during this time means it’s best to book your bed well in advance.
Many accommodation providers in the more remote areas assume arrival by car, which isn’t always helpful for cyclists. It’s also worth bearing in mind that some of the smaller villages may have just one option, or even none at all, for accommodation and refreshments. Appendix E contains details of websites that are useful for researching and booking accommodation in the Cotswolds, including websites that provide information specifically on cycle-friendly accommodation. A number of establishments in the area have cycle-friendly accreditation, but wherever you decide to stay it’s advisable to check before booking that there will be somewhere safe to store your bike overnight and facilities for drying wet gear.
Bases of a reasonable size from which to explore the Cotswolds include (roughly south to north):
Bath, Bradford on Avon or Bristol (Routes 6, 10 and 15)
Cirencester or Stroud (Routes 8, 12, 13, 14, 16, 19 and 22)
Bourton-on-the-Water or Stow-on-the-Wold (Routes 3, 4, 7, 9, 17, 18 and 22)
Cheltenham or Tewkesbury (Routes 5, 20 and 22)
Chipping Campden or Shipston-on-Stour (Routes 1, 2, 7, 17 and 22)
Stratford-upon-Avon (1, 2, 11 and 22).
A good starting point for your accommodation search is www.cyclistswelcome.co.uk – the Cyclists’ Touring Club’s (CTC’s) list of cycle-friendly accommodation. For a more general search try www.cotswolds.com.
What to wear
Newcomers to cycling would be forgiven for thinking head-to-toe Lycra in lurid colours is essential, judging by the attire of some road cycling clubs. Fortunately this is not the case, although there are certain items of clothing that will make your ride more comfortable and therefore more enjoyable.
Cycling shorts
Cycling (padded) shorts make life on the
