not be outdone. Although surrounded by a cluster of equally dramatic acolytes, the highest mountain south of the Roman Wall refuses to be ignored and seldom is. Don’t expect to have it to yourself, no matter how unpromising the weather may be. The Horseshoe, starting on the tightrope of Crib Goch and ending on the double summit of Y Lliwedd, is unrivalled as the area’s most famous and most challenging short(ish) walk, a must for every ambitious walker and scrambler. In all, 15 peaks that top the magic 3000ft contour are crammed into this northern sector of the park.
| The Welsh 3000s | |
| Snowdon | |
| Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa | 3560ft (1085m) |
| Garnedd Ugain/Crib y Ddysgl | 3494ft (1065m) |
| Crib Goch | 3028ft (923m) |
| Glyderau | |
| Elidir Fawr | 3031ft (924m) |
| Y Garn | 3107ft (947m) |
| Glyder Fawr | 3283ft (999m) |
| Glyder Fach | 3262ft (994m) |
| Tryfan | 3002ft (915m) |
| Carneddau | |
| Pen yr Ole Wen | 3208ft (978m) |
| Carnedd Dafydd | 3425ft (1044m) |
| Carnedd Llewelyn | 3490ft (1064m) |
| Yr Elen | 3156ft (962m) |
| Foel Grach | 3201ft (976m) |
| Garnedd Uchaf/Gwenllian | 3038ft (926m) |
| Foel-fras | 3089ft (942m) |
The Miners’ Track with (l to r) Lliwedd, Snowdon and Crib Goch beyond (Walk 17)
To the south the heights diminish – although Cadair Idris, a scant 71ft shy of the magic figure, can hold its own in any company – and the valleys soften a little but the mountains lose nothing of their challenge and character. Each range – the Moelwyns, Rhinogs, Arans, Arenigs and Tarrens – has its own appeal and character. They are by turns magnificent, magical and melancholy. These are big mountains with big personalities and they leave an indelible impression.
There is a Welsh word, hiraeth, which defies exact translation into English but might best be rendered as ‘a wistful longing for Wales’. Spend much time among these mountains and anyone with an ounce of romance in their soul will learn its meaning, and will feel the deep pull of these mountains whenever they are far away.
Geology
Although relatively compact, at just 2132km2 (823 square miles) Snowdonia reveals an astonishingly diverse geology born of fire, water and ice. The most eye-catching peaks, such as Snowdon itself, the Glyderau and Carneddau are the children of long-extinct volcanoes that spewed out molten lava to create rock hard-wearing enough to resist the glaciers of the last Ice Age, which gouged huge valleys and hanging cwms from the mountainsides more than 10,000 years ago.
Cwm Idwal (Walk 10)
Yet almost as significant – perhaps even more so in the life and history of the area – are the sedimentary rocks, laid down on ocean floors and long-vanished estuaries. Today the most noticeable of these are the huge slate deposits which, in turn, spawned the vast caverns, quarries and spoil heaps that still overshadow the towns of Llanberis and Blaenau Ffestiniog. But scarcely a hillside or a valley totally escaped the delvers and quarrymen, and almost every view will include at least some workings, no matter how small.
To the west the Rhinogs, overlooking the sea, contain another geological surprise with outcrops of gritstone, more usually associated with the Pennines and the Peak District. This is a land of constant revelations, where nothing can be taken for granted.
History
The story of man is written deep into this landscape although, this being Wales, it can sometimes be hard to differentiate myth and legend from fact. Early man certainly left his mark in the shape of stone circles and standing stones, such as those seen on Tal y Fan (Walk 1), as well as in huge mounds of stones, built for unknown purposes with enormous effort on some of the highest peaks.
Later men built even bigger mounds of stones in the quest for slate. This was already an industry when the Romans arrived in the area, and the earliest written records date from the 14th century. Large-scale production began towards the end of the 18th century, with the need to roof the booming towns and cities of the Industrial Revolution, and by Victorian times Wales was the biggest slate producer in the world, with much of its output coming from the north.
Between pre-history and modern times came the rise and fall of the independent Princes of Wales, who finally perished in bitter wars with the English. The names of the last two are commemorated in the names of great peaks, Carnedd Llywelyn and Carnedd Dafydd, but works of the English victors are more ubiquitous, in the form of a ring of grim fortresses, such as Conwy, Caernarfon and Harlech, built to subdue the locals.
Harlech Castle
Wildlife
The Snowdon Lily is the emblem of the national park
With its wide range of habitats, from high mountains to lush valleys, Snowdonia is home to an astonishing array of species, including some, like the Snowdon lily – the emblem of the national park – which are unique to the area. Another rarity is the Gwyniad, a unique sub-species of fish which lives in Llyn Tegid (Bala Lake), where it was trapped after the last Ice Age 10,000 years ago.
Otters and polecats are to be seen in the park, and the shy pine marten is thought to breed in the extensive conifer forests, although it is hard to track down. In the air birds of prey, notably peregrine falcon, merlin and red kite, patrol the skies. Ravens are frequent visitors to the highest ground although, given the proximity of the coast, you are just as likely to share the summits with gulls, which have learned that there are easy pickings to be had from walkers’ rucksacks. Osprey also breed at Glaslyn, near Porthmadog, where a viewing station has been set up.
Ravens are frequently seen on the highest ground
Some of the easiest ‘wildlife’ to spot are the semi-wild ponies which graze the Carneddau, and the feral goats which are to be found almost everywhere.
Getting there
Most visitors will arrive by car from the M6 motorway, either via the A5 or along the much-improved A55 coast road. For those who prefer to use public transport the area has two main network railway lines. The holiday resorts of the north are served by the North Wales Coast Line, which runs on to Bangor and Holyhead and also has
