the Carneddau are remarkably quiet compared with the Glyderau on the other side of the Ogwen Valley or the Snowdon massif. This is especially true of the deep valleys below the main north–south ridge, and nowhere more so than in the broad basin of Cwm Eigiau. Here, even on days when Snowdon is groaning under the weight of school parties and Three Peakers, it is possible to have entire mountains to yourself. Driving along the narrow lane from Tal-y-Bont it is impossible not to be affected by the lonely sweep of this once bustling valley and its overwhelming emptiness.
From the parking area much of the walk remains hidden beyond the curve of Cwm Eigiau but it is possible to weigh up the first objective, Pen Llithrig y Wrach (‘The Slippery Head of the Witch’).
Who the witch was and why her head should be slippery has been lost in the mists of time. Asked the story behind the name, a local farmer shrugged and admitted he was baffled.
The walk starts in friendly enough fashion, crossing a ladder stile beside the locked gate and striding out easily along the continuation of the road which runs up to a huge wall. This proves to be the breached dam of the ill-fated Llyn Eigiau Reservoir. In 1925 the dam failed and 16 people were drowned in the resulting flood.
Cwm Eigiau’s breached dam
The road passes below the dam and then up to the whitewashed cottage of Hafod-y-rhiw, which must be one of the most isolated houses in Wales. Beyond the house the track almost immediately vanishes and becomes as tricky as the first stretch was easy, as the witch decides to test her suitors. This is perhaps the toughest part of the whole walk, climbing through ankle-snagging heather and rushes. Paths whimsically appear and then just as quickly vanish, waxing and waning without apparent rhyme or reason. The general line is a leftward slanting valley taking you below the line of outcrops at the top of the slope. Having passed these the various paths coalesce into a single grassy track weaving between rocky knolls, craglets and mini-gullies to arrive on a bald subsidiary top. Happily, the worst is now over but there is still a long way to go, crossing a couple of boggy cols before climbing the final grassy slope to the summit of Pen Llithrig y Wrach.
On the final approach it is possible to look down to the left on Llyn Cowlyd, reputed to be the deepest lake in Wales at more than 70m (230ft), with the unmistakeable shape of Tryfan and the Glyderau beyond and Snowdon peeping over their shoulders. Ahead the giants of the Carneddau beckon you on.
In all, the ascent to the comparatively lowly summit at 799m (2297ft) that seemed so innocuous from the car park will probably have consumed a couple of hours or more.
Having worked so hard for the summit, the ridge to the next top, Pen yr Helgi Du, only a little higher at 833m (2732ft), involves a frustratingly long descent of more than 160m (525ft) to the Bwlch y Tri Marchog (‘the pass of the three horsemen’), another intriguing name: but sadly, like the witch, the riders have also been forgotten. Beyond it is the grassy shoulder of Pen yr Helgi Du and a 200m (660ft) climb, while further along the ridge are the vast plunging buttresses of Craig yr Ysfa, which might have been placed there deliberately to give the lie to the old accusation that the Carneddau are just grassy lumps.
Once over the broad summit of Pen yr Helgi Du, with its slightly misplaced cairn, the character of the walk changes markedly. The ridge ahead becomes narrow and exposed, with a steep drop down into Cwm Eigiau to the right and Flynnon Llugwy Reservoir to the left, while ahead the ridge plunges steeply to a saddle which proves much easier than it looks from above.
Beyond the col the path carries on up the narrow crest and provides a brief easy scramble through a band of slabs before traversing above Craig yr Ysfa onto a broader slope. It arrives on the very summit of Carnedd Llewelyn, although this is not immediately clear as the top is a huge stony plateau.
Near the summit of Carnedd Llewelyn
Turn right, heading northwards along the main Carneddau ridge, dropping down a stony slope to a col and then a rather smoother climb over grass to the 976m (3201ft) summit rocks of Foel Grach.
Leftwards across Cwm Caseg, the view from Foel Grach is dominated by Yr Elen’s huge shattered face. Just behind and below the summit of Foel Grach is a rudimentary bothy intended to be an emergency refuge for those caught out by darkness or bad weather on these otherwise shelterless tops.
In good visibility the descent from here is clear, despite the lack of obvious paths. In mist or darkness it is a very tricky exercise in navigation and best avoided. The general aim is to reach the ridge on the north western side of Cwm Eigiau. A clear track can be seen traversing the side of the ridge but this is used only in its very lowest section.
Head off south eastwards across mostly trackless grass, where any footprints you come across are likely to be left by the horseshoes of the semi-wild ponies that graze here rather than the cleated rubber of walkers. Work your way across the slope, aiming for the ridge, and eventually the reservoir of Melynllyn comes into view below. Shortly afterwards the contouring path intersects a broad track running along the ridge. Carry on down this and where it passes to the left of a cockscomb of rocky outcrops the valley’s second lake, Dulyn Reservoir appears in a dark, crag-girt hollow. The path, now much narrower, begins to descend more steeply across the slope, eventually dropping to join the access track by a gate. Go through this and follow the broad track as it curls round the end of the ridge to descend to the car park.
WALK 4
The Southern Carneddau
| Start/Finish | Llyn Ogwen on A5 between Capel Curig and Bethesda SH 648 604 |
| Distance | 16km (10 miles) |
| Total ascent | 1170m (3840ft) |
| Grade | Strenuous |
| Time | 6hr |
| Terrain | Steep climb followed by stony ridges; simple scrambling |
| Map | OS OL17 Snowdon/Yr Wyddfa |
| Access | Llyn Ogwen is on A5 between Capel Curig and Bethesda |
| Parking | Pay and display car park by Llyn Ogwen or free spaces by the road |
The Carneddau have a reputation in some circles of being a bit tame and even perhaps a little boring. Looking from the shores of Llyn Ogwen it’s an easy mistake to make, especially when you contrast their green slopes with the rocky turrets of Tryfan or the deep clefts and cwms of the Glyderau on the other side of the valley. But don’t be fooled. Hidden within their folds the Carneddau harbour dramatic cwms and huge cliffs. Their rounded tops have often been compared with Scotland’s Cairngorms, and when winter gales scour the ridges they can feel every bit as wild. These are not mountains to be underestimated and several of the summits top the magic 3000ft contour. This walk visits three of them, Pen yr Ole Wen, Carnedd Dafydd and Carnedd Llewelyn, in a glorious high round.
It is possible to make a direct assault on Pen yr Ole Wen by a path which hurls itself directly at the ridge rising from the western end of Llyn Ogwen, but this is a brutally steep choice best left to masochists and would-be SAS candidates. This easier and more devious route climbs easily into lovely Cwm Lloer and throws in an easy scramble to ease the height gain.
Walk east along the A5 towards Capel Curig and turn left at the first lane beyond the lake towards Tal y Llyn Farm, passing the MAM climbing
