then passes beneath the cliffs of Ben Mor Coigagh, with the Summer Isles offshore at this point, before reaching the exposed headland of Rubha Coigeach. Turning abruptly south-west, the coast passes the extensive sands of Achnahaird Bay, and twists and turns around the innumerable inlets of Enard Bay (including Loch Inver) before encompassing a string of sandy beaches on the run out to the Point of Stoer, with its spectacular sea stack the Old Man of Stoer.
Loch Lurgainn from Stack Polly, Route 7
Loch Stack
From here the shoreline penetrates deep inland, to the heads of the fjord-like lochs Glencoul and Glendhu, then threads a ragged line north, encompassing the island-studded Eddrachillis Bay. After sneaking past the Isle of Handa, the coast forms two more fjord-like sea lochs in Lochs Laxford and Inchard, before reaching the beach at Sandwood Bay.
Sandwood Bay would be a crowded and commercialised place if it were situated further south, or even if accessible by road, but it has escaped the attentions of the day-tripping crowds because of its remoteness. Its 2km of reddish sand, overlooked by the sea stack known as Am Buachaille, is completely unspoilt and often deserted.
North of the bay the coast becomes rugged again as it rises to the headland of Cape Wrath, with its stubby lighthouse. This is Britain's most remote headland (but not the most northerly). Turning east, the coast presents a series of high cliffs to the crashing seas of the Atlantic, the ones at Cleit Dubh being the highest on the British mainland, but these gradually subside into the gentle shores of the shallow Kyle of Durness with its mud flats and sand dunes.
Beyond the sandy headland of Fair Aird (variously referred to as Faraid Head or ‘Far Out Head’) a series of delectable coves with sandy beaches lead along to the mouth of Loch Eriboll, by far the largest of the ‘fjords’ along this coast. Eriboll is often used as a deep-water refuge by shipping during stormy weather.
The Kyle of Tongue, which is the next inlet along the coast, is completely different from the brooding Eriboll, being a shallow firth like the Kyle of Durness, but it is overlooked by the majestic Ben Loyal, giving it a scenic quality which is lacking in its neighbouring sea lochs.
Continuing east, the coast shortly reaches Bettyhill at the outlet of Strath Naver, which is the border of this area of the guide.
Climate
Contrary to popular belief, the climate does not get worse the further north you go! In fact, the far north has a much more favourable climate than the central highlands. For example, average July rainfall in Fort William is over 5 inches, compared to about 3 inches at Inverness or Stornoway, and only 2.6 inches at Wick.
Like most of Scotland, May and June are the driest and sunniest months, but September/October can also give good sunny days, along with the low-angled sun which is so atmospheric. July and August provide the warmest weather, but rainfall averages are higher than in May or June and there is, of course, the midge problem to contend with at that time of year. If camping, it is worth remembering that exposed coastal sites suffer less from midges than more sheltered locations because of the sea breezes.
Another interesting fact about this area is that bad weather is often very localised. When rain and mist shroud the hills, a trip out onto one of the west coast headlands – such as Rubha Stoer or Rubha Coigeach – can often find brighter skies and no rain, although this fact is no consolation if your aim is to ascend the inland peaks!
Inverpolly
Winter climbing is not much practised in the area covered by the guide because of the rarity of good conditions. Snowfall is not uncommon during winter, but rarely stays for long on the coastal hills. Inland peaks such as Ben Hee and Ben Klibreck generally hold more snow, but the winter climbing conditions found in the Cairngorms, for example, are not common in the guidebook area.
Access problems due to snow are rare, unless you intend to attempt to reach some remote location in a particularly bad winter, but notes on the accessibility of the roads in a severe winter are given below in ‘Roads within the Area’.
Plants, Birds and Animals
Plant life in the far north is much the same as you might find in areas further south, such as the moorland of northern England. Some of the hills have a thick covering of heather, particularly on their lower slopes, and elsewhere there is rough moorland grass and sedge – often waterlogged – on a base of peat. Due to the scarcity of paths on the less popular hills, this can make for arduous approaches.
Apart from a few isolated exceptions, there is little forest in the guide area. The most extensive tree-covered area is the Dalchork Forest, north of Lairg, which is a remote man-made plantation of conifers. There are remnants of the natural forests which once covered this land, most notably around sea inlets near Lochinver, Inverkirkaig and Loch Nedd.
Birds are quite plentiful in the summer months – grouse are an obvious example, along with other moorland natives such as curlew and skylark. The characteristic songs of these birds are very atmospheric on a warm spring day in the hills. Birds of prey such as hen harriers, kestrels and owls may be seen, but are less common here than further south.
Along the coast, sea-birds such as guillemot, kittiwake, razorbill, fulmar and puffin, along with various gulls and gannets, abound. There is a bird sanctuary on Handa Island (ferry from Scourie or Tarbet), which is a must for anyone with an interest in ornithology.
Seals are another sight to look out for in coastal areas. Both common seals and the much larger grey seal are quite numerous around the north-west coast, and colonies of them can be seen in sea lochs such as Glencoul and Glendhu, either in the water or basking on the shore.
You may spot other wildlife such as fox, hare, red squirrel, badger, wildcat, otter and various species of vole and shrew. The north-west highlands is the last stronghold of many species which have all but disappeared from the areas further south. Deer are of course plentiful, and their numbers are controlled by an annual cull. Access to many of the far north hills is curtailed if there is ‘stalking’ going on, and it is always a good idea to check before setting out.
Bases
There is no shortage of accommodation available in the far north. The area boasts a multitude of hotels, B&Bs, campsites and self-catering cottages, chalets and hostels. In fact, there is such a wealth of choice that a comprehensive list would fill this book and probably a couple of others too! It is possible to obtain hotel or self-catering accommodation at any time of year, but most campsites are are only open from Easter to the end of September. Check before travelling. The best sources of information are the tourist offices/visitor centres listed in Appendix A.
Below is a summary of the main walking centres and the facilities to be found there. The list is not comprehensive, but short lists of convenient bases are given in the introductions to each area in the walks section of the guide.
Ullapool
This is the largest community in the area. A major fishing and ferry port, the town boasts a number of restaurants, hotels, guest houses and self-catering accommodation, as well as a campsite and youth hostel. Other amenities include a bank with cashpoint, supermarkets, a filling station, an excellent hardware store selling most camping utilities, and even a fish and chip shop!
