is the last outpost on the road to the north coast, and marks the junction with the branch road out to Kinlochbervie and Shiegra.
The hotel would make a good base for ascents of Arkle or Foinaven.
Dunbeath
This is a small, scattered village, located on the east coast in the far north-eastern corner of the guide area. Dunbeath has a camp site and a hotel, and is a convenient base for the exploration of the Morven group of hills.
Kinlochbervie
This is a major fishing port on the north-west coast, comparable to Ullapool in importance. Kinlochbervie is situated on a narrow neck of land between two sheltered bays – an ideal location for a port. It has a lonelier atmosphere than Ullapool, but does offer a range of accommodation and is conveniently situated in relation to the great peaks of Foinaven and Arkle.
Nearby is a lovely beach at Oldshoremore (campsites here and at Balshrick) and the start of the path to Sandwood Bay, one of the jewels of the coast.
Durness
Bleakly exposed atop rugged sea cliffs, Durness is at the northernmost point of the A838 road. The village itself consists only of a few scattered houses and a couple of shops, but in the vicinity are a number of attractions including a good campsite, a youth hostel, some spectacular beaches, the celebrated Cave of Smoo (with hotel) and the Balnakeil Craft Village. The latter is housed in converted old army buildings, which are numerous hereabouts.
Tongue
Tongue is an unremarkable village, clustered around a sharp road bend near the junction of the A838 and A836. It has two hotels, a youth hostel (on the shore of the Kyle of Tongue), a very small campsite and a post office.
The Kyle of Tongue Crossing (more of a causeway than a bridge) has bypassed the former road, which took a circuitous route around the southern shore of the Kyle. However, the old road is still worth driving for its superb views of Ben Loyal.
Tongue makes a convenient base for Ben Loyal, Ben Hope, Ben Stumanadh and Ben Klibreck.
Getting There
Although situated in the farthest corner of the British mainland, the far north is not as difficult to reach as might be imagined. Excellent road links make Ullapool (for example) as accessible as many popular Scottish locations further south. For the southern Sassenach, the journey to Skye or Torridon can take just as long as that to the far north.
The A9, although not the most scenic of Scottish roads, makes for easy travel to Inverness, and links to Lairg, Helmsdale or Ullapool from there are excellent. For those who cannot face the drive, there are internal flights available to Inverness and Wick, or you could even let the train take the strain – the line meanders all the way up to Wick via Lairg, Helmsdale and Forsinard.
Once you are much north of Inverness, Royal Mail post buses provide the main system of public transport. These run regularly between all post offices in the far north, and a timetable is available from the Royal Mail on request. Note that, despite the name, you should not expect these post buses to actually be ‘buses’. You are just as likely to find yourself travelling in a small van or estate car as in a purpose-built bus.
Summer Isles ferry
Roads within the Area
With the notable exception of the Parph and Cape Wrath, road access within in the area is very good, but not too good. You are never far from a road in this area, and all the peaks are fairly easily accessible, but there are a number of places where it is possible to get away from the car-borne tourist and feel the ‘wilderness experience’. The inner reaches of Glen Dubh and Glen Coul (east of Kylesku), and the middle of the Inverpolly Forest (west of Cul Mor), spring immediately to mind.
Although the road network is quite comprehensive, many of the roads are single track, and outside the months of June, July and August they see little traffic. In early spring or in autumn it is possible to drive for miles along these roads without seeing a single vehicle. This is quite a contrast to areas south of Inverness, and it is one of the great charms of the far north.
If a winter trip is planned, it is worth remembering that road closures due to snow can occur in these parts, and in particularly bad weather it may be impossible to access anything beyond the main trunk routes.
Access to individual peaks is covered in the relevant route description in the walks section of the guide, but below is a brief description of each of the main access routes.
The view south from Achiltibuie
A835 from Ullapool to Ledmore
17 miles (27km)
Winter access: usually kept open
An excellent two-lane trunk road giving good views of the Coigach peaks (especially the jutting prow of Sgurr an Fhidhleir). Long straights and easy bends mean fast progress. Knockanrock viewpoint and information centre at GR188090.
From Drumrunie (GR165054) to Achiltibuie
- with branches to Reiff and Achnahaird
15 miles (24km) excluding branches
Winter access: doubtful under snow
Unclassified single-track road, but easy. Passes the bases of Cul Beag and Stac Pollaidh (also passing the turning to Lochinver – see below), then descends to a junction at the south end of Achnahaird Bay. Right leads to the Achnahaird campsite and Rubha Mor (Rubha Coigeach); left leads south to Achiltibuie. A short branch road leads norh-west to Reiff, also linking with the Achnahaird road.
From Badnagyle (GR063113) to Lochinver
- ‘The Mad Little Road of Sutherland’, 11 miles (18km)
Winter access: best avoided in winter conditions
Unclassified single-track road. Starts easily, but becomes extremely tortuous. Gives spectacular glimpses of the Inverpolly peaks and Suilven as it traverses the lumpy moor west of Loch Sionascaig.
After wriggling around an inlet of Enard Bay, the road cuts across Rubha na Breige to the River Kirkaig (start of path to Falls of Kirkaig and Suilven, café and bookstore) and shortly enters Inverkirkaig (self-catering accommodation, telephone). A further climb takes the road over to Lochinver.
A837 from Invershin (GR574966) to Ledmore
26 miles (42km)
Winter access: rarely closed
Single-track trunk road. This is the main access from the east to Assynt and Coigach, so is usually kept open even in snowy weather. There are a few very short two-lane stretches, but these are best regarded as extended passing places. The road begins in rural semi-wooded terrain, then climbs gradually into open moorland. Good view of Suilven ahead as Ledmore is approached.
A837 from Ledmore (GR248124) to Lochinver
19 miles (30km)
Winter access: kept open in all but the most severe blizzards
