Two-lane trunk road. After joining with the A835 at the Ledmore junction, the A837 becomes an excellent two-lane road. The road crosses the Kirkaig/Inver watershed then descends to Inchnadamph (private lodge and hotel with petrol pump, expensive). After passing the turning to Kylesku at Skiag Bridge, the road skirts along the shore of Loch Assynt to Lochinver.
B869 Assynt Coast Road, GR099235 (near Lochinver) to GR232314 (near Kylesku)
21 miles (34km)
Winter access: impassable under snow
This unclassified single-track road is considerably ‘madder’ than the ‘Mad Little Road of Sutherland’ (see above), with numerous climbs, descents and blind brows. The first section is enclosed and wooded, passing the branch to Achmelvich (youth hostel and campsite) before climbing into open country (excellent viewpoint on the left at GR078254). After passing the bleak campsite and small sandy beaches of Clachtoll and Stoer, the road swings inland to cross the neck of the Stoer headland to Clashnessie (branch road on the left leads to the Stoer lighthouse).
Beyond Clashnessie (sandy bay, ugly static caravans) the road crosses more moorland to reach Drumbeg (parking, toilets, hotel) in an elevated position overlooking Oldany Island, then descends to Nedd by the shore of the charming Loch Nedd, heavily screened by trees.
From here to the main road near Kylesku is the most demanding section. The road heads east to the A894 via an arduous series of ups and downs (the descent into, and climb out of, Gleann Ardbhair being particularly untamed), with glimpses of Quinag's impressive northern buttresses on the right.
A894 from Skiag Bridge to Laxford Bridge
23 miles (37km)
Winter access: usually kept open
Two-lane trunk road. The initial section, over the pass between Quinag and Glasven, has some tight and bumpy bends, but after Kylesku Bridge the road smoothes out and makes easy progress to Scourie (campsite, restaurant, hotel, post office, toilets). Continuing easily, the road passes a turning on the left to Foindle, Fanagmore and Tarbet (Handa Island ferry) before arriving at Laxford Bridge (no facilities).
Arkle and Loch Stack
A838 from Colabol junction (GR573099) to Laxford Bridge
34 miles (55km)
Winter access: usually kept open
Single-track A-road. Just north of Lairg on the road heading for Altnaharra and Tongue (A836), a left turn near the small group of buildings called Colaboll takes you onto the A838 to Laxford Bridge.
The A838 actually continues beyond Laxford Bridge to Tongue (description below), but a traveller between Lairg and Tongue would use the more direct A836.
Although single track, this road is open and quite straight, giving easy passage. The 17-mile (27km) shore of Loch Shin leads to a gentle ascent to the Loch More watershed, passing Loch Merkland and West Merkland (start of Ben Hee ascent) en route.
From the watershed (start of Beinn Leoid ascent) the road descends easily to skirt the southern shore of Loch More, with tremendous views of Ben Stack and Arkle ahead.
Beyond Achfary (routes to Arkle, Fionaven and the Sabhals), the road skirts along between Ben Stack and Loch Stack to eventually meet the two-lane A894 at Laxford Bridge.
Loch Eribol
A838 continuation, Laxford Bridge to Tongue
48 miles (77km)
Winter access: can be closed north of Rhiconich in severe weather
A mixture of two-lane and single-track A-road. Turning right at Laxford Bridge (the Scourie-Rhiconich road has priority) the A838 continues as a single-track road for about 300m then joins a smooth two-lane highway, like the A894, which then swoops its way to Rhiconich (hotel, petrol). A branch road (B801) runs out to Kinlochbervie from here, continuing as a single-track minor road as far as Sheigra, with a further branch to Oldshoremore. Sheigra is the closest approach by road to Cape Wrath, and the path to Sandwood Bay begins near here at Balshrick (campsite nearby).
North of Rhiconich, the A838 becomes single track and climbs up to Gualin House, with Foinaven towering to the right. Various small parking places along here provide starting points for Foinaven. Gualin House is now bypassed on its north-west side by a short new section of two-lane road, but single track takes over again as the road descends past Carbreck (start of Cranstackie ascent) to Kyle of Durness.
Just before Durness two-lane road reappears (at the junction with the short branch to the Cape Wrath Hotel and ferry) and this leads into the village itself. From Durness (hotels, 40-bed youth hostel, campsite, toilets, shop, tourist information) another short branch road leads out to the Balnakeil sand dunes, passing the interesting Balnakeil Craft Village en route.
The main road continues along the north coast (past Smoo Cave and various sandy beaches) before turning south to skirt Loch Eriboll (single track again).
After Eriboll, two-lane road climbs abruptly over a ridge to descend rapidly to a bridge at the head of Loch Hope (junction with minor road from Altnaharra). Another climb now leads up and over The Moine to the Kyle of Tongue.
The old road (single track) loops south around the head of the Kyle (still worth driving for its intimate views of Ben Loyal), but the new road spears straight across the shallow kyle on the Kyle of Tongue Crossing, which is more of a causeway than a bridge and leads quickly to the village of Tongue. The village has hotels, a basic campsite, shops, toilets and a 40-bed youth hostel (on the shore of the Kyle, next to the crossing).
A836 from Bonar Bridge to Bettyhill
59 miles (95km)
Winter access: likely to be closed in snowy weather
Remote, mainly single-track A-road. A fast stretch of two-lane road leads from Bonar Bridge to Lairg (all amenities), but the road then becomes single track and remains so all the way to Tongue, a distance of 36 miles (58km). However, the route is mainly over quite open terrain and progress is easy.
Kyle of Tongue crossing and Ben Loyal
Undulating through plantations of conifers (Dalchork Forest), the road gradually gains height to pass the Crask Inn in open country just before the watershed. The road then descends into the shallow trough of Strath Vagastie (start of Ben Klibreck ascent) to eventually reach the scattered buildings at Altnaharra (hotel, post office) at the head of Loch Naver.
This is an important crossroads. The B873 heads east from here through Strath Naver, making a shorter route to Bettyhill (see below), while to the west a minor road goes via Alltnacaillich, at the foot of Ben Hope, to emerge on the A838 at Hope Lodge.
The A836 continues north, with Ben Loyal in view ahead, to traverse the west shore of Loch Loyal (Beinn Stumanadh group overlooking the opposite shore). At the north end of the loch, the road climbs moderately over a minor watershed, then descends to Tongue with improving views to the west.
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