Remove and discard the cheesecloth bundle from the pot. Working in batches, blend the shrimp heads and shells, along with the liquid from the pot, in a blender. Blend until the shrimp heads and shells are completely puréed, making sure you use all the liquid from the pot.
Pour the stock through a fine mesh strainer and into a large bowl. Push on the solids in the strainer to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the remaining solids in the strainer.
Allow the stock to cool completely before storing in the refrigerator for 2–3 days, or in the freezer for up to a month.
COOK’S NOTE: You can substitute the shrimp shells and heads with 1 lb (500 g) of crab or lobster shells, or even fish heads and bones, to instead make a seafood stock. Just simmer the shells or bones with water as directed above, and then strain the stock after 30 minutes.
Do not attempt to blend crab or lobster shells, or fish heads or bones, in your blender.
CHICKEN STOCK
Believe it or not, I find solace in making chicken stock. It’s true. Maybe it’s from the aroma of chicken soup that fills the house, or perhaps it’s in knowing that the flavorful stock will be used to enrich so many other recipes down the road. Whatever it is, making chicken stock is one of my favorite things to do in the kitchen. I tend to stockpile a variety of raw chicken parts in my freezer for use in chicken stock—these parts are usually the backs and necks left from whole chickens I’ve previously processed. But if you are not of the chicken-bone-stashing ilk, I’ve found that more and more grocery stores are beginning to sell chicken backs, necks, and feet for those of us who love to make chicken stock on a whim. And if your store doesn’t sell these parts separately, you can always purchase chicken wings on the cheap whenever you’d like to make stock.
Makes about 8 cups (about 1.75 liters)
Prep Time: 10 minutes
Cooking Time: 4 hours
2 lbs (1 kg) chicken bones and parts, such as wings, backs, feet, necks, etc.
2 bay leaves
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 stalk lemongrass, bottom 4–6 in (10–15 cm) trimmed and halved lengthwise
One 2-in (5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and smashed with the side of a knife
8 cups (1.75 liters) water, plus more to cover as needed
Place the chicken bones in a large deep pot or Dutch oven. Pour in enough cold water to cover the bones by at least 1 in (2.5 cm), and then bring to a boil over high heat. Boil the chicken bones for 5 minutes, and then remove from the heat and pour the bones and water through a large colander set inside a sink. Rinse off the bones with cold running water, and rinse the pot out as well to remove any residue that may have been left behind. This first step helps to ensure a clear stock by removing any impurities from the chicken bones.
Return the chicken bones to the pot, along with the bay leaves, black peppercorns, lemongrass and ginger. Pour in the water—enough to cover the bones by at least 1 in (2.5 cm). Bring the pot to a boil, and then cover and gently simmer over low heat for at least 4 hours, occasionally skimming and discarding any foam or fat that rises to the surface of the liquid.
Pour the contents of the pot through a fine-mesh sieve set over a large bowl. Discard the solids in the sieve. Allow the stock to cool, and then store in containers in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or freeze for up to 3 months.
COOK’S NOTE: This stock can be used in multiple recipes throughout this cookbook, such as Chicken and Rice Porridge (page 54), Filipino Chicken Noodle Soup (page 67), Shrimp and Pork with Homemade Pancit Noodles (page 58), and Stir-Fried Wheat Flour Noodles with Shrimp and Vegetables (page 61).
PICKLED GREEN PAPAYA ATCHARA
Atchara (also acharra, or atsara) is a pickled Filipino dish usually comprised of shredded green papaya and carrots, and served as a condiment. It’s similar in flavor to the pickled ginger served at sushi joints. As such, I think atchara makes for a great palate cleanser between bites and goes especially well with grilled meats. It’s even great on top of grilled burgers as a type of pickled slaw.
Makes about 1 quart (1 liter)
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cooking Time: 10 minutes, plus time to cool
2 cups (500 ml) white Filipino cane vinegar, or white distilled vinegar
½ cup (90 g) brown sugar
1 tablespoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
One 1-in (2.5-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and cut into thin matchsticks
4 cloves garlic, minced
4 cups grated green papaya, about ¾ lb (350 g)
1 cup grated carrots, about ¼ lb (100 g)
1 small red onion, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
Combine the vinegar, sugar, salt, black pepper, ginger, and garlic in a medium saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil and stir until the sugar and salt have dissolved. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly.
Meanwhile, combine the papaya, carrot, onion, and red pepper flakes in a large bowl. Pour the warm pickling liquid over the vegetables and toss to combine.
Allow the mixture to come to room temperature, and then place in an airtight container and refrigerate for at least 1 day before serving. The atchara will keep for up to 1 month in the refrigerator.
PINEAPPLE SWEET AND SOUR SAUCE
This is one of my favorite condiments to prepare because it goes well with just about everything. In addition to the obvious pairing with fried lumpia, I also use this dipping sauce for fried chicken, grilled fish, French fries, and even eggs. With sweetness from pineapple juice, tartness from vinegar, spice from ginger and a little heat from dried red pepper flakes, you too will find yourself often reaching for this sauce.
Makes about 1 cup (250 ml)
Prep Time: 5 minutes
Cooking Time: 10 minutes
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons water
¾ cup (185 ml) fresh or canned pineapple juice
2 tablespoons white Filipino cane vinegar, or cider vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce
One ½-in (1.25-cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons brown sugar
½ teaspoon dried red pepper flakes (optional)
Stir the cornstarch into the water and set aside.
