and less flavorful coconut milk. Although freshly made coconut milk is preferred in the Philippines, canned unsweetened coconut milk can be used with equally wonderful results. I prefer the Chaokoh and Arroy-D brands of canned coconut milk from Thailand, as they both are consistently flavorful and creamy. When working with canned coconut milk, always give the can a vigorous shake before opening, and then after opening the can, use a spoon to stir the coconut milk again before adding it to your dish.
DRIED RED PEPPER FLAKES: I use these spicy flakes to add a hint of heat to dishes when I don’t have fresh chili peppers on hand—though sometimes I use both at the same time to achieve different layers of spice.
EDAM CHEESE: Believe it or not, Edam cheese is a common ingredient in Filipino cuisine. Spheres of the Dutch cheese covered in red wax are traditionally given as Christmas gifts in the Philippines. The savory cheese is often grated onto many Filipino desserts as a salty counterpoint. Keep in mind that the Edam found in Asian markets is usually specifically marketed towards Filipinos and therefore tends to be saltier than Edam found in other grocery stores. Gouda makes a great substitute if you can’t find Edam.
EVAPORATED MILK: A convenience food introduced by the Americans, evaporated milk is milk that is boiled and processed until it has lost about half of its water content and then canned and sterilized. Canned evaporated milk is used primarily in Filipino desserts.
FERMENTED BLACK BEANS: Also known as Chinese dried black beans, these salty beans are made from fermented black soybeans and are used to season soups, stews, meats, and poultry. They can be found in Asian markets and are usually sold in plastic bags or cardboard containers. I prefer the Yang Jiang brand in a plastic bag.
FERMENTED FISH/SHRIMP PASTE (BAGOONG) : A very pungent and salty condiment that can be made from tiny fish or tiny shrimp. Bagoong alamang (also labeled as shrimp fry) is perhaps the most commonly available type of shrimp paste available in the States, and is often sautéed with garlic and shallots (page 26) and used as a condiment to enhance any number of dishes that need a salty kick.
FISH SAUCE (PATIS): Ubiquitous throughout Southeast Asia, fish sauce is an essential ingredient in Filipino cooking and is used not only to impart saltiness, but savoriness (umami) as well. Fish sauce is made from fermented anchovies. Although it has a very pungent aroma, if used properly it will not make your food taste “fishy.” Fish sauce can be used to season cooked dishes, but it can also be used as part of a dipping sauce (page 27). Shop for fish sauce that is light amber in color and labeled as being made from the first extraction of the fish. Keep in mind that the saltiness in fish sauce varies by brand. Rufina is a good brand of Filipino fish sauce, but Three Crabs (Vietnam), Red Boat (Vietnam) and Squid (Thailand) are also very good brands of fish sauce.
GINGER (LUYA): A rhizome rather than a root, ginger imparts a bright, sweet, zesty, and spicy flavor that I love to put into nearly everything I cook. When shopping for ginger, look for smooth and tight skin without any blemishes. Ginger with wrinkles tend to be older and more fibrous.
GREEN MANGO: Green mangoes are simply firm, unripe mangoes prized for their sour flavor. Usually sliced and served with bagoong for a salty-sour snack, green mangoes can also provide texture and tartness to raw salads. Look for green mangoes that are very firm and have a pale green skin. You can find green mangoes in Asian markets.
GREEN PAPAYA: Green papayas are simply unripe papayas that are mild in flavor rather than sweet. Green papayas have dark green skins with a firm white flesh and a cluster of seeds in the middle of the fruit. Green papaya is often pickled (page 22) but it is also used in a variety of Filipino soups.
JICAMA (SINKAMAS): A South American tuber, jicama is round with brown skin and white flesh. Because of its crispy texture, jicama is often eaten raw in salads, or even sliced like an apple and dipped in bagoong. I like to use jicama with smooth brown skins and that are no larger than the size of a softball as they tend to be easier to prep and slice.
KABOCHA SQUASH (KALABASA): A sweetish winter squash from Japan, kabocha are shaped like small pumpkins and have a dark green knobby skin with orange or yellow flesh. Commonly sold in 2–3 pound (1–1.5 kg) sizes in the supermarket, this squash is often used in soups and stews in the Philippines.
LEMONGRASS (TANGLAD): Lemongrass is an aromatic and edible species of grass that lends a beautiful lemon flavor and aroma without any acid. The whole length of a lemongrass stalk provides aroma, but only the tender bottom portion of the stalk is edible.
LONG BEANS (SITAO): Also called Chinese long beans, snake beans, or yard-long beans, long beans are indeed long green beans that usually measure 2–3 feet in length. Long beans are easy to find in the produce section in many Asian markets and are usually bundled together in bunches. Look for bright green specimens without any blemishes. Tender green beans are a suitable substitute for long beans.
MACAPUNO: Because of a natural occurring mutation, macapuno coconuts lack the water usually found at the center of regular coconuts. Instead, macapuno coconuts are solid throughout with a sweet jellylike flesh. Macapuno flesh is usually shredded, preserved in sugar syrup and packed in glass jars. Jars of macapuno can be found at Asian markets and labeled as “Macapuno Strings” or “Coconut Sport.” And because of the natural mutation of the coconut, don’t be alarmed if the label on a macapuno jar also reads “Mutant Coconut.”
MANGO: Ask any Filipino what their favorite fruit is and they are likely to say, “mangoes.” Although unripe green mangoes (page 16) are prized for their sourness in the Philippines, soft ripe mangoes are beloved and even lusted for in the Philippines. I’ve heard many arguments from Filipinos that ripe Philippine-grown mangoes are superior to any other mangoes from around the world. After having tasted a sweet, custardy mango in the Philippines myself, I have to agree. Philippine mangoes are incredibly smooth and are nearly devoid of any stringy fibers so prevalent in other mango varieties. Unfortunately, the mangoes labeled as “Manila Mangoes” sold here in the States are often actually grown in Mexico. Despite this misleading nomenclature, you can still find a great variety of mangoes in many grocery stores. When choosing mangoes, look for fruits with smooth taut skin. When ripe, the mango should feel heavy for its size, and it should smell sweet and deeply fruity. Lastly, give the mango a squeeze—it should be slightly soft and yield a bit to your fingertips.
MISO: A Japanese ingredient made of fermented soybeans, miso is often used to add flavor and savoriness to Filipino soups. Miso paste comes in a variety of shades and colors, with lighter shades being mild in flavor and darker shades being more robust. Miso can be found in the refrigerated section (usually right next to the tofu) at Asian markets and most large supermarkets.
MUNG BEANS (MONGGO) : Dried mung beans are used in a variety of ways in Filipino cooking. They are often ground and made into mung bean noodles (sotanghon), or cooked and sweetened for use in desserts, and also simmered to make hearty stews (page 55).
PANCIT NOODLES: There are as many types of pancit noodles as there are ways to prepare them. Here
