at the time, Spanish dishes were reserved for special occasions. Even today, Filipino dishes of Spanish origin are usually only served at birthday parties, graduation parties, and the occasional Manny Pacquiao fight party.
MEXICAN INFLUENCE
Mexico and the Philippines may seem like strange dinner companions, but because both nations were under Spanish rule at the same time, their connection becomes clearer. In fact, during much of its time as a Spanish colony, the Philippines were actually governed indirectly via the Spanish viceroyalty in Mexico City—and this was long before the time of conference calls and telecommuting.
Between the years of 1565–1815, Spain transported goods between its two colonies via the Manila-Acapulco Galleons. These huge ships traveled across the Pacific from Manila to Acapulco only once or twice a year, thereby introducing innumerable Mexican influences into Filipino cuisine. The galleons brought New World crops to the Philippines, such as chocolate, corn, potatoes, tomatoes, pineapples, bell peppers, jicama, chayote, avocado, peanuts, and annatto—all of which you will find in one form or another in this cookbook. And because the galleons traveled in both directions, the Mexicans received rice, sugarcane, tamarind, coconuts, and mangoes from Philippine soil.
AMERICAN INFLUENCE
Following the end of the Spanish-American War in 1898, Spain signed the Philippines over to the United States as part of the Treaty of Paris. The Philippines would then spend the next half-century as a colony of yet another country and living with a new military force in their presence.
The U.S. military legacy in the Philippines, culinarily speaking, left behind a new fondness for all things American, including things like hot dogs, hamburgers, fried chicken, and ice cream. Even processed convenience foods such as Spam, corned beef, evaporated milk, and instant coffee became highly prized pantry items for the Filipino.
FAMILIAL INFLUENCE
Above all else, Filipino food is largely shaped by individual family traditions and customs. The same dish made in one household will greatly differ from that of the household next door. Taking things a step further, the same dish prepared by one family member will greatly differ from that made by another family member.
This is no more evident than with my own grandmother and her sisters. Even under the same roof and in the same kitchen, each sister prepares her own very distinct version of adobo. It is this diversity that makes Filipino cuisine so wonderful.
Speaking of my grandmother and her sisters…
GRANDMA AND “THE AUNTIES,” OR MY THREE GRANDMAS
Much of what I know about Filipino food, I learned through a lifetime of visits to the home of my grandparents; Juan and Estrella Gapultos (AKA “Grandpa Johnny” and “Grandma Esther”). Two of my grandmother’s sisters, Carolina (AKA “Auntie Carling”) and Flora (AKA “Auntie Puyong”), also live in the same household with my grandparents. And although Carling and Puyong are technically my great aunts, I’ve grown up calling them “Grandma” as well (sorry for all the aliases—Filipino families are “Wu-Tang” like that).
While Grandma Esther does have other siblings, Grandmas Carling and Puyong have lived with my Grandma Esther for my entire life. They are the triumvirate of culinary tutelage with which I was raised—each grandma having her own speciality and excelling at different culinary arts.
My Grandma Esther is definitely the executive chef of her kitchen, directing her (older) sisters in their tasks and orchestrating the many multi-course meals that have fed our family over the decades. With a degree in Home Economics from the University of the Philippines, my Grandma Esther is an all-around great cook, though her specialty is in desserts. As such, in addition to my grandmother being an expert in traditional Filipino sweets, she’s also adept at baking everything from multi-tiered wedding cakes decorated with ornate sugar flowers, to mini pecan tartlets.
Grandma Esther and me.
This grandma clan ain’t nothin’ to mess with. From left to right: Grandma Puyong, Grandma Esther, and Grandma Carling.
Grandmas Carling and Puyong, on the other hand, both specialize in the old school: traditional Filipino fare from the Northern Ilocos region of the Philippines. Most every Filipino comfort food from my childhood has been prepared by either Grandma Carling or Grandma Puyong. I imagine if there were ever any sort of “Filipino Throwdown” or “Iron Chef Philippines” competition, those two young ladies would wipe the floor with whoever crossed them.
And although my three grandmas sometimes bicker amongst themselves in the kitchen (as all sisters do), they always manage to create beautiful, soulful meals together.
In fact, if I could choose my last meal on earth, it would consist of delicacies described in this book: my Grandma Carling’s Pancit Miki (page 58), my Grandma Puyong’s Pinakbet (page 48), and my Grandma Esther’s Buchi (page 130).
EAT LIKE A FILIPINO
Although this cookbook is broken down into convenient sections that focus on different Filipino “courses,” it should be noted that, typically, Filipinos do not eat meals that progress from small plates, to main courses, to dessert. Instead, all courses are brought to the table and presented at the same time—desserts included.
Now this doesn’t mean that we’ll have a bite of cake sandwiched between nibbles of spring roll, slurps of soup, and mouthfuls of roast pork (though, admittedly, I’ve done that once or twice at family parties, but I digress), but rather, it signifies the importance of food to a Filipino family. Feeding, being fed, and sharing in a meal is vital to all cultures—but especially so with Filipinos.
If you’ve ever eaten a Filipino meal with a Filipino family, you probably know that one of the most difficult things is trying to get up from the dinner table—not only because you are full of food, but also because the host is likely to insist that you keep eating some more! And even if you do manage to escape the dinner table, chances are that you will be bringing more food home with you in doggie bags. Filipino food: the gift that keeps on giving.
AN ABUNDANCE OF RICE
Central to any Filipino meal is the appearance of rice at the table. Rice is served with all meals throughout the day. For breakfast, fried rice (Fast and Simple Garlic Fried Rice page—53) is often served alongside eggs and sausage, or a warm champorado (Chocolate and Coffee Rice Pudding, page 135) can also be had for breakfast. Steamed white rice, of course, is ubiquitous for lunch and dinner and serves as an absorber of soups and stews, or as a bed for protein and vegetables, or as a blank canvas for various dips, sauces and condiments. Rice even appears in many Filipino desserts, either in its sticky glutinous form for heavy sweet snacks, or when milled into rice flour to form the foundation of many cakes and dumplings.
A TRADITION OF SOURNESS
As you’ll find throughout the recipes in this book, the most dominant flavor in Filipino food is sourness. This sourness can be a quick zing provided from anything like a dipping sauce made of fresh calamansi lime juice, or it can be a more restrained and refined sourness that can be found in adobo s slowly simmered in vinegar and spices (page 68).
The Filipino penchant for lip-puckering zest is not without reason. In the tropical climes of the Philippines, the preservative powers of vinegar were a culinary necessity
