Jakarta: 25 Excursions in and around the Indonesian Capital. Andrew Whitmarsh

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Jakarta: 25 Excursions in and around the Indonesian Capital - Andrew Whitmarsh

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in the Sentul Selatan area, just a few minutes from the toll road.

      For road bikers, there are some nicely paved stretches of road relatively free of heavy traffic, with some folks starting at the lake next to the park gates near Rainbow Hills. Mountain bikers, meanwhile, can enjoy countless rides in the hills and mountains on single tracks, village paths and plantation and rice paddy trails. There are some long hills out here that expats usually ride up, while many Jakarta locals get shuttled up in a truck before putting on their gear for downhill-only rides.

      Top off-road rides include:

      HAMBALANG HILL This ride has a couple of good downhill stretches that include riding through a quarry as well as some grinding ascents, including one called The Wall. It starts north of the Star Deli in a kampung that links up with a nice road that later turns rocky with lots of climbing. It continues through a semi-rural area that includes some fast dirt downhills. It ends near Sirkuit Sentul.

      GUNUNG GEULIS (PRETTY MOUNTAIN)

      There are many variations on this ride, one of which is to start south of Star Deli and ride in the dirt and mud parallel to the toll road. The route follows the river for a while before climbing, then dropping into the town of Gadog near Jl. Puncak Jaya. From there begins a long series of climbs that end on a ridge looking over the Rainbow Hills golf course. The ride continues until it reaches The Cyclists warung at the T-intersection of Jalan Bojong Koneng-Babakan and Jalan Bojong Koneng-Gunung Geulis. You can then take the Waskita path, a fun downhill single track that leads back to Sentul.

      HUNTER’S HUT Start at the General’s House and take the dirt road, cutting through farmland and forest all the way to Pondok Pemburu (Hunter’s Hut), where refreshments are sometimes available. Next, cross a stream, pass a church and follow the ridge-line toward Gunung Pancar, a pyramid-shaped mountain home to the Sebex MTB Bike Park. This park is a wicked single-track, downhill mountain bike course with banked turns, exposed roots, boulders, meter-high jumps, mud puddles, sandbags and daring drop-offs. Although Sebex has an extreme downhill track option, it also has easier side paths for those less daring.

      The ride finishes by passing through some fields and a development area before getting back to Sentul. Note: This ride can be done as a circuit from Sentul, but this makes it a long ride with lots of climbing. It’s easier to get a lift to the General’s House and then get picked up at the bottom of the Sebex downhill track.

      Since all these routes are unmarked and can be difficult to find and/or follow if you don’t know where you’re going, the best way to ride is to join one of the many cycling clubs that come here often. Also, the wet season makes all off-road tracks significantly more difficult. If you’re riding after a heavy rain, be prepared for plenty of slippery mud.

      WHERE TO GO The Star Deli in Plaza Amsterdam in Sentul is a popular place for cyclists to gather both before and after rides. It has good burgers, beer and flirtatious barmaids, and offers a good place to get cleaned up before heading home.

      HOW TO GET THERE Take the Jagorawi toll road to the exit at km 36—Sentul Selatan/ Sentul City. Drivers can park outside Star Deli or at any of the shopping centers in the Sentul City area.

      THE VELODROME Jakarta is home to a full-sized velodrome, an oval-banked track for cycling, with large angled walls made for ripping laps and training for the next big racing event. It’s a bit rundown, but intact enough for you to spend some time spinning your wheels. It has a small section of stadium style seating so friends can come and cheer (or jeer). Open to the public as long as cyclists register in the velodrome office, it’s a great place for a rider to feel like a pro. For those with a fixed gear bicycle, the latest trend among cyclists these days, it’s an excellent place to get a workout.

      Note: There’s a good chance local kids will be using the velodrome for bicycling or even for sliding down the steep embankments on their butts. Challenge them to a race, and may the best cyclist win. Also, keep in mind that going high on the banked wall is a thrill but it can be dangerous. Always wear a helmet, and don’t attempt anything that you’re not capable of.

      HOW TO GET THERE Take Busway #4 to the Velodrome stop (note that only folding bicycles are allowed on a Busway bus).

      FOR DRIVERS From Central Jakarta, take Jl. Pramuka as it turns into Jl. Pemuda. The Velodrome is on the left-hand side just past the Busway stop. There is plenty of parking inside.

      DANCING

      BELLY DANCING Get your moves down in a dance studio. Learn to swing your hips with Christine, a voluptuous belly dancing instructor. As a belly-dancing student you will wear jingly belts and learn to sway rhythmically to Middle Eastern music, wiggling and thrusting, shaking and strutting; hands held steady while mid-sections move magically. In addition to belly dancing classes, the dance studio, located in a large converted house, offers hula and Bollywood dancing.

      Bollywood movies have popularized moves such as shimmying, arm rolls, hop steps, head swivels and gestures that mimic archers shooting arrows. Just like in the movies, Bollywood dancing requires first and foremost the desire to boogie; after that you’ll find yourself exercising without even having realizing it. The music is rocking, the instructor is good looking and everyone around will think you look great in tight, hot pink pants.

      WHERE TO GO Jl. Mas Putih, Blok D–48—Permata Hijau

      HOW TO GET THERE Take Jl. Teuku Nyak Arif to Jl. Permata Hijau Boulevard Barat, then turn on to Jl. Mas Putih. Parking is limited to the street.

      CHECK OUT www.bellydancejakarta.com and www.huladancejakarta.blogspot.com

      Scuba diving in the warm waters of the Java Sea.

      DIVING

      If you really want to enjoy Jakarta life, work all week and dive all weekend. Dive shops in Jakarta offer convenient certification courses for those without a scuba diving license. In just two days you can finish the bookwork and pool sessions, ready to spend the third and fourth days exploring the warm waters of the Java Sea.

      Most dive outfits also offer scuba for kids, refresher courses, advanced open water, rescue and dive master.

      Most operators run monthly trips to the Thousand Islands, Krakatau and Ujung Kulon in West Java, and if a person has more time, to Sulawesi, Komodo and Papua. Coral bleaching, dynamite and cyanide fishing and a constant battering of garbage and pollution from Jakarta has taken its toll on the visibility (10–15m) around the Thousand Islands. Still, there are a solid number of good dives out there. Try out the following hotspots.

      NAPOLEON AND TABULARASA WRECKS NEAR PRAMUKA ISLAND The ships, the sea life and the coral are what make this dive cool. Its close proximity to Jakarta makes it easy to reach as well.

      PUTRI ISLAND This is by far the best-known island for an open-water certification, largely because it has its own dive center. Overnight options are reasonable, and the swimming pool and karaoke bar make it an interesting hide-out for families or party-goers.

      ALAM KOTOK ISLAND With its private dive center and basic accommodation, this is one of the best-value options for a quick dive weekend. Although closer to Jakarta than Pulau Putri, the marine and coral life here seems to be in better condition.

      PENIKI ISLAND The house reef along the west side of the island is a sloping reef that runs 5–20m deep. Fish life here is good, with batfish,

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