playing in parks, families strolling around eating ice cream and groups of teens shooting the breeze and sneaking a cigarette or a kiss. Parks, as you might think of them, are so much of an anomaly in Jakarta that the residents don’t seem to know exactly what to do with them. Most often, the only other visitors you may find here are snack vendors, a few stray cats and a couple of teenagers hanging out. On the weekends and at dusk, though, some parks can get quite busy, especially as young guys often come out to play pick-up soccer games there.
A modern sculpture in Langsat Park.
Often there is little to do in these parks except stroll around in circles, sit and read or ponder life, but in a city such as ours, you should count your blessings when you can walk on an unbroken sidewalk without the risk of being run over by a motorcycle or falling into an open hole in the ground. While many parks are formed merely by the junction of a number of streets, and so are not totally free from motorized vehicle noise, there are still quite a few gems that were purposely made and are relatively peaceful and quiet, depending on the time of day.
Also, don’t forget that golf courses are basically large green spaces with lots of trees and ponds, so when desperate times call for desperate measures, we count these as parks too. Even if the thought of playing golf abhors you, it’s still a great way to get some light exercise, a suntan and escape the rat race.
A NOTE ON TRADITIONAL MARKETS
Nowhere in the country does even the most amateur of photographers have more opportunities to take incredible photos than in a local outdoor market (pasar). With a kaleido-scope of colors, an often tantalizing array of exotic wares on display and a host of toothless, smiling faces, there’s never a lack of subject material.
Beyond being great places to capture memories, they are also great places to capture your next meal. With fresh fruits and vegetables going for bargain prices, it’s a wonderful way to buy healthy ingredients and save a dime. While food markets abound, many markets sell a wide variety of often unexpected other goods. Looking for a wicker lamp shade? You’ve got it. Ever wanted a pack of 1,000 incense sticks? It’s yours. Can’t live without a police costume? Go ahead and buy one! While not every market in Jakarta has been included in this book (there are more than 100), those found here should keep you busy exploring for a while.
When shopping at a pasar, it’s a given that you should bargain and a given that you will still pay more for something than a local. That’s okay. The important thing is whether you feel you paid a good price and you got your money’s worth. Always keep it friendly and wear a smile, as shouting or getting snappy over a few thousand rupiah is never acceptable. One thing to watch for is the pause. If you ask how much something is and the seller pauses for a few seconds before producing a number, you know that it’s too high. Make sure to come with small money, because if you have just bargained for 30 minutes to get the price down to Rp10,000 from Rp12,000 and then you ask the seller to break a Rp100,000, you can be sure he will shoot you a soul-destroying stink eye.
Selling chilis at a traditional market.
BEWARE OF PICKPOCKETS Markets are a favorite hangout for pickpockets, so be aware of your surroundings, don’t flash your money around, hold your bags close and keep them zipped, and dress down. Taking pictures is generally acceptable (though you should always ask first), and try to bring a cloth bag for your goodies so you don’t end up with 20 disposable plastic bags at the end of the day.
A NOTE ON MUSEUMS Generally speaking, Jakarta’s museums are underfunded—and it shows. Be sure to temper your expectations before entering and instead see them as an excellent opportunity to escape the heat and mayhem of the streets while learning a thing or two.
The entrance fees are not listed in this book but they generally range from around Rp500 to Rp5,000. This may not help funding much for the museums, but it does ensure that even the poorest of Jakarta’s citizens have a chance to get in.
Most displays are not translated and those that are will say something vague, like ‘old plate’, which is not very useful. Either bring an Indonesian friend to translate, join an English-language tour, bring your electronic dictionary or just enjoy a stroll about. Learning Indonesian so you can read the signs yourself may be the best option of all.
For the most complete guide to the city’s museums, check out the Indonesian Heritage Society’s guidebook, Museum Encounters: Jakarta. Unfortunately, most museums don’t have a website and those that do are in Indonesian, so make good use of the ‘translate’ button in Google.
The National Museum is great for learning about the country’s numerous cultures and crafts.
Graves at Ereveld Menteng Pulo War Cemetery.
Most museums are closed on Mondays and public holidays. They may also close for afternoon prayers.
A NOTE ON CEMETERIES If you are looking for a quiet place to walk around, away from the street noise and people, it’s best to head to where they’re dead. Cemeteries are good places to stretch your legs on a bicycle, and they can offer some decent single track. It’s also interesting to see how locals bury their loved ones based on their religion.
Throughout the book you’ll find various cemeteries noted, a good example being the Kalibata War Cemetery in Kalibata, south Jakarta. It’s a large chunk of land complete with wide, clean, solid paths as well as a lake, monument and lots of bushes, flowers and stately trees. To top it off, there are deer in one corner of the cemetery. Most of the graves are noteworthy because of the helmets resting on them.
On maps, the cemeteries are listed as TPU, which stands for tempat pemakaman umum (public cemetery). If you are strolling around and trying to find a cemetery, you can ask people for the kuburan (grave) or makam (tomb).
A NOTE ON INDONESIAN PLACE NAMES
Except in headings, most sights listed in the book are first given in Indonesian, such as Pulau Onrust, and then followed up by the English, Onrust Island. The spelling of some words varies throughout the city, e.g. ojek, ojeg, etc. Generally, the spelling options given here are the most common.
A NOTE ON FINDING YOUR WAY AROUND
When you are looking at street signs, bear in mind that they stand perpendicular to the street they are naming, rather than parallel to the street as you would find in most Western countries. This is crucial knowledge if you are wondering why your map doesn’t match the street signs.
The walking tours and corresponding maps in this book reference street names. On the ground, however, it may be challenging to actually spot a street sign. Look for street names given on local buildings or banners. Better yet, ask any of the lingering security guards (satpam) or ojek drivers nearby. The initials Jl. stand for Jalan (Street).
When seeking directions, ask for the end destination rather than the streets leading there. People may not know the intermediary street names, but they may well be able to point you in the right direction if you tell them the final destination. If there is confusion about where you are going, you might be mispronouncing the name; try showing a written form of the destination. Note, however, that in poorer neighborhoods, or among
