but you don’t. Certainly explore the roadside treats served at warungs (small informal restaurants), but be cautious as well. Ask for your food bungkus (to go), as often the gut-busting microbes are on the dishes washed in dirty water, not in the food itself. Think twice about having ice in your glass: it is usually transported by bicycle or cart and can be well manhandled before landing as chunks in your juice. Pick a warung which is popular with locals, drink straight from the bottle or can, and wipe your cutlery first with a napkin.
HYDRATION Keep hydrated in the tropics. You may not realize it, but your body will become as dehydrated as a shrimp cracker. Don’t wait until you are thirsty. Start drinking water the moment you hit the streets. Dehydration will lead to headaches, irritability, and lassitude and could end with heatstroke. Cut down on plastic garbage by bringing your own water bottle pre-filled with ice-cubed water. If you feel your mood plummeting during a walking tour, drink and eat something immediately. You’ll find that it wasn’t your surroundings bringing you down, but neglect of your bodily needs.
Open-air fish markets offer a variety of seafood.
Cyclists rule the roads on car-free Sundays.
Always have bottled water on hand.
Cultural Do’s and Don’ts
Due to the polite and accommodating spirit of the local people, a person may commit repeated cultural and etiquette-related crimes and never know it. That being said, there’s no reason you should blunder blindly through the city, making grown men blush, insulting elders and giving foreigners a bad name. The following are a few tips on how to be a polite citizen in your host country.
ANSWER THE QUESTION As you walk through Jakarta you will commonly hear Mau ke mana? Literally this asks where you are going, but actually it is more a courteous greeting than a question. A lengthy reply is not necessary and the question isn’t intended to be nosy. You can either tell them succinctly where you really are going, Mau ke pasar ikan, for example, if you are going to the fish market, or with the more general Jalan jalan (Just walking around). You should respond verbally though, do not just ignore this polite social greeting.
ANNOUNCE YOUR PRESENCE In the narrower neighborhoods, kitchens often spill into the streets. This means you may end up walking through someone’s kitchen as you explore the area. Call out Permisi (Excuse me) to individuals and groups as often as necessary. With this expression you are politely asking for permission to proceed through the neighborhood. People will be very grateful for this sign of respect and will happily answer with Silahkan or Mari, meaning you are welcome to proceed. This simple word can unlock both doors and smiles, especially if your presence has surprised someone or you have intruded on a social event.
ACCEPT YOUR TITLE Indonesians politely greet each other with titles. Bu, for example, signifies deference for an older woman; Pak is the respectful title for an older man. Your title is Mister. You’ll frequently hear ‘Hello mister,’ and it is not supposed to be annoying. Say hello back and don’t bother trying to correct them if you are a woman.
BE THE BULE You will also often be hailed as bule. This is a commentary on your being a foreigner. Though you make get tired of hearing it said so many times, it is not an attack. In the kampung, the word will draw the attention of the locals and the delight and interest of the children. A happy smile or nod of acknowledgment is the proper response; a middle finger, scowl or smart-ass retort is not. Often the people calling out bule don’t realize you understand the word.
GREET GRACIOUSLY Handshaking is acceptable when being introduced to an Indonesian, though don’t be surprised if the hand is limp. Indonesians don’t go for the crushing handshake and it’s not cool for you to give a macho display. Give a light handclasp. Touching your heart immediately after the handshake is very polite. If you mix in affluent circles, get used to cheek kissing. The standard first greeting is Apa kabar? (How are you doing?), and the response is Kabar baik (I’m fine).
USE YOUR RIGHT HAND Always use your right hand when passing and receiving items from people. In this culture, the left hand spends a lot of time near the bum and is considered unclean.
GESTURE WITH GRACE Try to avoid pointing at someone or something, especially with your left hand or index finger alone extended. If you need to indicate direction or a specific person, gesture with your entire right hand. If you need to summon someone, beckon them with your palm down and wave your fingers. Pointing at or touching items with your feet is rude, and do not point your soles toward someone when sitting down.
Be aware that standing with your arms crossed or your hands on your hips suggests arrogance or anger. Patting anyone on the head, including children, is rude. Men should not touch women, or be overly familiar in social situations, other than for the initial handshake.
SHUCK YOUR SHOES Generally speaking, people should take off their shoes before entering someone’s residence. Look for a line of shoes at the door and at least motion towards removing your shoes. Your host may tell you it’s unnecessary.
FIND YOUR RELIGION Indonesians are required to have a religion. As a foreigner, you will be required to declare your religion to complete certain paperwork, opening a bank account, for example. It is considered poor form to dispute the existence of any deity. Pick a religion for formalities sake.
STATE YOUR MARITAL STATUS It is common for Indonesians to inquire into your marital status and number of children. They may show surprise or disappointment if you are above your mid-twenties and do not have children. Ask in return how many children they have, and they will be proud to list their children’s ages and class levels at school.
COMMUNICATE CLEARLY Remember that a smiling Indonesian is not necessarily a happy Indonesian. A smile can indicate embarrassment or confusion. If a smile is not the response you are looking for, consider that you may be making people uncomfortable or that you may be making a spectacle of yourself. It’s not their fault if they can’t understand English and it may, in fact, be your accent or mispronunciation when speaking Indonesian.
ASK THE RIGHT QUESTION Indonesians like to be helpful. This may mean they give an answer to a question without really knowing the answer. Rather than admit, for example, that the person does not know where the nearest post office is, your interlocutor may give you their best guess. A tip when asking for directions is to get three people to give you the same answer before considering it accurate. Avoid leading questions like, ‘Does it open at 9am?’, to which the response is likely to be agreement. Ask open questions instead: ‘What time does it open?’ Questions about distances may be answered jauh (far) or dekat (near). However, often jauh isn’t actually that far at all!
DRESS FOR SUCCESS A woman showing skin will attract comments. Keep your shoulders, cleavage, midriff and thighs covered anytime you are not in a fancy mall, restaurant or bar. Dress conservatively when walking through a kampung to avoid offending less cosmopolitan residents. Unless exercising, men’s shorts should reach the knees.
BE A POLITE PHOTOGRAPHER Indonesia and its people are incredibly photogenic. However, do ask permission, Boleh foto? (May I take a photo?), before shooting portraits. Most of the time you will not only be allowed but will be highly encouraged. Your subject may mutter that everyone takes their photo and then literally takes the photo away and never shares it. Photographers might consider printing some copies of the images and returning another day to share them.
HAVE SMALL CHANGE Always carry small denomination notes when out exploring,
