You will need patience, resilience and water. Your comfort zone will be stretched, your sense of direction twisted and your determination challenged. But along the way you are likely to meet friendly people, discover a unique shop, stumble upon a cute park, step inside a tasty café or come across an artistic mural. You may never get to where you intended, but instead end up exactly where you want to be.
AN OVERVIEW OF THE BOOK
This book is divided into five main sections. The first section gives some tips for successful expeditions into the tangled lanes of the city. Being streetwise, knowing what time of day to travel to certain areas, knowing which mode of transport is the quickest for particular routes and knowing how to give and respond to greetings are the street-savvy elements which will make everyone’s experience of their visit much more enjoyable. This first section also covers health and safety basics, cultural do’s and don’ts and an introduction to the city’s transport options.
The second section delves into seaside north Jakarta, the city’s black pearl, so-named because, although to some it is the gem of the city, it is by no means the sort of thing you would give as a wedding present. There are five walking tours exploring quarters of north Jakarta. Three have a historical and cultural flavor, strolling through the city’s old town, harbor and Chinatown. The Muara Angke tour takes in the disparity between rich and poor, passing through neighborhoods in which mansions and slums share the same zip code, before arriving at a mangrove forest and fishing village. And the fifth, the Ancol tour, is a blast of seaside fun with roller coasters, a water park and an art market.
The third section moves to central Jakarta, with eight tours exploring both the main streets and the seldom-visited back streets. The Monas tour is steeped in history. The Menteng tour guides walkers through a sequence of parks to enjoy the leafy side of life. A day at the city’s central sports grounds is the focus of the Senayan tour. The Markets tour brings together a trio of unique places to shop, while the Cikini tour looks at the arts. Explore the quaint lanes of the Bendungan Hilir neighborhood or make your own batik at the Textile Museum during the Tanah Abang tour. The Downtown tour provides a contrast between the upscale malls and the small neighborhoods located just blocks away.
The fourth section journeys to south Jakarta, a huge area of the city which the government defines as encompassing both Kuningan, in the central business district, and the University of Indonesia, which can be over an hour’s drive away. Seven tours tread through this part of town.
Some of the city’s larger, family-friendly attractions are located in the south: Ragunan Zoo, the cultural and educational park Taman Mini Indonesia Indah, and the fruit orchards of Mekarsari. The Pondok Indah and Kemang tours amble through green residential neighborhoods. The Kuningan tour visits some eye-catching cemeteries, and the Blok M tour satisfies both shoppers and park fiends, while passing an animal market as well.
The fifth section explores some of the attractions within five hours driving distance of the city. The farther you get from the smog and noise, the greener and more relaxing the environment becomes. These drives may mean renting a car and leaving before the call to prayer has finished rattling the bedroom windows, but it’s worth the effort to breathe the sea and country air.
Sun worshippers and sailors will enjoy the Thousand Islands tour. The Jatiluhur tour spends a day at a lake. The Bogor tour gets on the train and explores the botanical gardens and a gong factory, while the Puncak tour goes up to the Gede and Pang-rango volcanoes. The Pelabuhan Ratu tour gets all the way to the south coast of Java for some white-water rafting and surfing.
Welcome to Jakarta and its surrounding areas, where even the incredible is nothing out of the ordinary.
Safety Tips
On the city-wide scale, Jakarta has endured floods, earthquakes and terrorist attacks. That being said, the city is not a dangerous place to live. There are, however, things to keep in mind while exploring the streets.
CYCLISTS BEWARE The best tip for cyclists is to stay off the main roads. Instead, map out a route to your destination using the quieter back streets. Not only will you be less exposed to pollution and potential accidents, but the ride will be more pleasurable and your map-reading skills will improve. Always wear a helmet and reflective clothing. Fit out your bicycle with lights and a loud horn, and buy a proper anti-pollution mask if you are regularly riding in traffic. Go with the flow of vehicles, don’t use your middle finger, ring your bell as needed, stick to the left lane and don’t assert yourself too much.
MOTORBIKES Motorbike riders and passengers are vulnerable. When riding a motor-bike wear full protective gear or, at a bare minimum, shoes and a properly strapped on helmet. Keep alert. Most road rules are not applied. Poorly maintained roads are one of the greatest threats. Riding at night or in the rain is hazardous: flooded roads can hide giant potholes, uneven road surfaces and broken lane dividers. Watch out for kids and pushcart vendors in the street, motorcycles entering a road without looking and vehicles changing lanes without indicating or looking. If you’re riding in the kampungs, keep an eye out for marquees and wedding parties in the middle of the road.
PEDESTRIAN CROSSINGS The safety of pedestrian crossing is deceiving: cars won’t automatically yield. Do not stride confidently across the street in a display of pedestrian rights. Motorcycles are especially loath to brake for anything and the potential for collision is high. Always look both ways and cross with caution. Be careful about getting into an altercation with a car or motorcycle driver after a traffic incident as a mob is likely to form and you may suddenly find yourself facing 20 people, not just one.
SIDEWALKS Watch where you walk or ride your bicycle, or you may find yourself neck deep in an uncovered sewer. Even in the smartest business and residential areas, it’s common to find gaping, yet unmarked, holes in the sidewalks and roads. Sidewalks are often not much safer than roads as motorcycles drive quickly and freely on them. Always look both ways before crossing a road, even a supposedly one-way street, as vehicles, especially motorcycles, often travel in both directions.
THEFT Despite Jakarta’s poverty, crimes against foreigners are few. The most likely crime is pickpocketing, with mobile phones and wallets choice targets. Use common sense: always mind your belongings and be aware of your surroundings, especially on public transport, at train and bus terminals, in queues and at busy markets. When leaving the bar at the witching hour, topped up on tequila and chanting the Canadian national anthem, keep your wits about you: take a reliable taxi and note the driver’s ID and the license plate number. Don’t ask the driver to go by the ATM for you to load up on cash, and don’t pass out in the back seat.
WOMEN Women should generally find that they feel quite safe in Jakarta, and that while there may be the occasional stare, they won’t feel like their life is in any danger. Ultimately, though, try exploring the city with a friend, always be aware of your surroundings, and if your intuition sounds a warning, listen to it. An ear-piercing scream can often be the best defense. The word for help is tolong.
Motorists don’t stop at pedestrian crossings.
Health Information
GENERAL HEALTH TIPS Dengue is known as a classless disease as it is mosquito-borne and therefore strikes people at all levels of society. It may be useful to carry a few sachets of anti-mosquito lotion with you, as avoiding being bitten is the only way to prevent infection. Make sure your vacci-nations are up to date and you are inoculated against typhoid, hepatitis A and B and tetanus-diphtheria. Take sunscreen with you as a general rule, but especially when you leave Jakarta for the Bogor, Jatiluhur, Puncak and Pelabuhan Ratu tours. Everybody gets the occasional upset tummy. Buy some fresh ginger roots and brew your own ginger tea to help.
FOOD
