barracuda and passing turtles. A wooden cargo vessel wreck on the southwest tip of the reef at 20m attracts schools of fish and some of the larger parrotfish. The focus here is shore dives.
MACAN ISLAND Stylish but basic eco-resort constructed from driftwood and recycled materials. Although the lack of a dive center makes this a pricey option for divers, there are still plenty of snorkeling opportunities.
CORAL LIFE AT SEPA ISLAND The beaches are beautiful and you’ll find no shortage of marine life. Its proximity to Pulau Putri’s dive center keeps the prices within reason.
GOSONGLAGA ISLAND The island is actually a sandbank that is entirely surrounded by a reef that extends down 20m. The corals here rival those of Alam Kotok, and a large variety of reef fish have made this their home. Stingrays are frequent visitors, as are sweet lips, trigger fish, lionfish, moray eels, turtles, surgeons and unicorn fish.
HEADS UP
Boats to all these islands leave from the Marina Jaya Ancol. Just check at the office.
TOP DIVE OUTFITS IN JAKARTA Kristal Klear Dive in the Kristal Hotel (J. Terogong Raya, Cilandak Barat; www.kristalkleardive.com); Aquasport Indonesia in Kemang (Jl Bangka Raya 39a; 021-749-9045 or [email protected]); ODY Dive Center Indonesia in Menteng (Jl. Panarukan 15; www.odydive.com); Bubbles Dive Center in Kuningan (Jl. Guru Mughni 18; www.bubbles-divecenter.com); Lautan Mas Dive Shop in Glodok (Jl. Toko Tiga 24; www. lautanmas.com)
FUTSAL (INDOOR SOCCER)
A curiously miniaturized version of football, futsal is a fast-paced indoor sport that is played all year round. With teams made up of five players and a ball that is smaller than a standard football, the game is lightning quick. It relies more on ball-handling techniques and control than brute kicking force.
WHERE TO GO The following are just a few of the myriad locations to play:
• Pakubuwono Futsal Center (Jl. Kyai Maja Raya 63; 021-724-3088)
• Planet Futsal Serpong at Kompleks Multiguna (Blok B2 #8, Jl. Raya Serpong km 7, Tangerang; 021-539-8234)
• Planet Futsal Kelapa Gading (Kompleks AXC, Building E, Jl Boulevard Raya, #1, Kelapa Gading; 021-4584-2594)
• Pro Arena (Jl. Metro Pondok Indah Blok BB III, Pondok Pinang, Kebayoran Lama; 021-765-8670/021-9407-5700)
FOR A MORE COMPLETE LISTING OF FIELDS, CHECK OUT www.makarafutsal.com/fighting-ground
GOLF
A round or two of golf is more than just a way to get in some exercise or get away from the family, it’s an avenue for soaking up a bit of nature and fresh air, something everyone needs a lot more of. Whether you want to practice your putting, have something to prove to your buddies or just want an excuse to dress in funny clothes and drive around in a miniature car, hitting the greens in and around Jakarta is a must.
Of all the courses in the area, the Jagorawi Golf and Country Club probably has the most cachet. Although there are 47 holes, it is the ‘Old Course,’ consisting of 18 splendid holes carved out along the banks of the Cikeas River 30 years ago that captures the imagination.
This is a walking-only course with fairways that are narrow and generally lined with impenetrable secondary growth. Jagorawi’s Old Course is sheltered and can get extraordinarily hot, especially for those who tee off in the early morning. Once the dry season has arrived, a post-lunch start offers the prospect of a second nine, in which the temperature drops to a balmy level and all the colors and textures of a late afternoon in the tropics are visible.
Over the years, the course has built up a devoted membership despite the spartan changing rooms and other perceived shortcomings, because it is a golfer’s course where it is not necessary to book. The country club also has three pools and offers treks, horseback riding and polo.
WHERE TO GO Take the Jagorawi toll road heading toward Bogor and exit at km 24.
CHECK OUT www.jagorawi.com
From the moment your bags are unloaded at the Cengkareng Golf Course to the final check-out with a charge card-cum-locker key, it is clear this is a professionally run business whose aim is to get people back.
The 18-hole course is not easy. In fact, it is tough enough to have been chosen for the 2002 Indonesian Open, although its proximity to the airport must have counted in what were still considered risky times for the country. And even though it occupies a flat, rectangular plot, the designers and gardeners have achieved a remarkable variety of layout and color on what is, pleasingly, also a walking course.
The excellent level of service impresses, from the cold towels at each of the drink stops to the delightful but not over-familiar staff to the low-key clubhouse with its decent dining and proper spike bar. Partly because of its location, the course can get crowded, and there is always the risk of a general and his entourage creating mayhem with the tee-off schedule. You may also need earplugs on two or three of the holes as planes take off nearby.
WHERE TO GO Soewarna Business Park just off Jl. Raya Bandara at the Soekarno-Hatta Airport, just before Terminal 1.
CHECK OUT www.cengkarenggolfclub.com
RANCAMAYA is a development that took off in the booming 1990s, but the sheer scale and location set it apart. As you leave behind the chaos of the Bogor/Sukabumi road and motor down the kilometer-long tree-lined drive, the ambition of the developers becomes apparent. The estate is huge, and much of it faces the still partially wooded slopes of Gunung Salak (Mount Salak).
The golf course is beautifully orientated to take full advantage of the views, especially the first and tenth holes. Different sections of the estate have been set aside for various types of housing, with the top-end plots located adjacent to the course. Some, though not all, of the mini-palaces that have been erected are shocking in their vulgarity. Many prominent Suharto era figures ‘acquired’ plots here, and a round of golf can feel a little like a lesson in recent political history. Rancamaya is professionally managed, well maintained and has an excellent clubhouse with great views. It rains most days, so an early tee-off is recommended. Buggies are mandatory, and while the caddies are charming, they are certainly not among the best in terms of reading the greens for the lazy golfer.
WHERE TO GO Take the Jagorawi toll road just past km 46 to Ciawi and exit to the right on to Jl. Rancamaya Utama.
CHECK OUT www.rancamayaestate.com
Another excellent choice is the Bukit Pelangi Golf Course (Rainbow Hills). This beautiful property sits at an elevation of around 500m above sea level, and this makes for a nice, ambient temperature. To be in the fresh mountain air in the early morning is a privilege. Although the decaying shell of a planned Sheraton Hotel overlooks the course and the clubhouse is below standard, the rewards of playing this tough hilly course more than outweigh the objections.
This is not a walking course, but many golfers are probably grateful for the buggies given the undulations that need to be negotiated. As with most Puncak-based courses, it is probably wise to tee off early. In truth, there are a number
