market. Here, you can discover what an industrial fishing village feels like, as rubber boot-wearing workers trundle by pulling carts laden with frozen squid. You’ll see dump trucks filled with massive blocks of ice which are unloaded on to workers’ shoulders, and fishermen either heading out to sea or unloading, sorting, weighing, washing, packing, cooking or eating their catch.
Moving deeper into this kilometer-wide by kilometer-long piece of land, which is surrounded on all sides by water, takes you to the expansive seafood drying racks that cover a large part of the area. Thousands of fish, squid, prawns and other sea life are spread across hectares of land to dry in the sun before being processed as snacks and cooking ingredients.
Exploring the canals that lead to the sea brings visitors face to face with a flotilla of traditional fishing boats and the seafaring men that run them. The right price can get you on one for a trip along the coastline.
Just around the corner from the Muara Angke neighborhood is one of Jakarta’s few nature reserves, the Suaka Margasatwa Muara Angke (Muara Angke Wildlife Reserve), which serves as a sort of buffer zone before really slamming into the upper-class neighborhood to the west. Home to a plethora of sea, land and air creatures, including nearly 100 wild monkeys, the reserve boasts a long boardwalk that stretches out into the mangrove forests, providing a glimpse into an estuary life almost lost in this rapidly industrializing city.
Heading up the road, in a westerly direction are the more exclusive, suburban neighborhoods of the ever-expanding upper class. Waterbom Jakarta is also located here, and it’s not a bad place to zip down the waterslide or cool down with a lazy drift along the ‘Wild River.’ Finally, to the far west, at the edge of the upscale housing developments, is a large mangrove reclamation project, the Angke Kapuk Mangrove Forest Tourism Park. Stroll among the lengthy rows of newly planted trees and catch glimpses of the wildlife that call them home. Rent a small boat and guide and enjoy the sight of herons gliding effortlessly through an evening sunset.
WHO? It’s all family-friendly, except for the Muara Angke Fishing Village. This low-income neighborhood is not particularly clean, it can smell and is not set up for tourism—in fact, it’s an industrial area. For those looking for a pleasant day’s activities, it’s recommended that you skip the fishing village, and instead start at the nature reserve.
HOW LONG? Full day.
HOW FAR? 12.5km, includes walking (5km)/driving/ becak ride.
GETTING THERE Head to Kapuk Muara and Kamal Muara, just west of Pluit. By car, take the Pluit-Tomang toll road to the Harbor toll road. Exit immediately on to Jl. Jembatan Tiga and head north; turn left on to Jl. Pluit Indah. At Jl. Pluit Barat Raya, turn right and take it to Jl. Pluit Utara Raya, turning left. By Busway, take corridor #9 to the Penjaringan stop. Continue north by ojek /taxi to Jl. Pluit Utara Raya; this road goes west, directly to the Muara Angke entrance.
Note: Unlike most of the other tours in this book, having a car makes this tour easier because of the distances between places and the notable reduction in taxis and public transportation. You can still get around fine without a car, but it will require additional patience and flexibility.
OTHER Once into the Muara Angke neighborhood, don’t worry too much about road names and which way you are going. Just stroll around and enjoy the adventure. Even better, rent a becak and have them pedal you around for half an hour; that’s sightseeing in style!
Be aware that except for the standard Bluebird/Express taxis, the beat-up, no-name types that ply this area often don’t use a meter. Be sure to check when getting in, and if they don’t want to use the meter, bargain for a price. Even if you don’t like their final price, don’t get huffy, just pay up.
1 MUARA ANGKE FISH MARKET
The tour starts at the Pasar Ikan Muara Angke (Muara Angke Fish Market). For those coming by taxi, get dropped off just before entering the Muara Angke kampung, which starts after crossing the canal bridge from Jl. Pluit Karang Utara to Jl. Muara Angke. There are a number of boats in the water here, as well as a sign in the shape of a boat reading:
Pemukiman—Nelayan (Fishermen’s Settlement). For those arriving by car, it’s best to park near the bridge and begin your explorations on foot. Note: The area can look overwhelmingly dirty, chaotic and uninviting. Give it some time and it will become less crowded and more enjoyable the farther you get.
Cockles for sale in the Muara Angke market.
A worker boiling squid at the rough-and-ready Muara Angke Fish Market.
HEADS UP
Some of the streets along here may be flooded in the rainy season. Be sure to wear appropriate footwear, such as sports sandals, old trainers or even flipflops.
After crossing the bridge, take an immediate right to check out the cool fishing boats. People can charter these boats to chug around the Java Sea, cruise around the Muara Angke Nature Reserve or visit some of the Thousand Islands, including Pulau Onrust and Pulau Rumput (see p. 188). The fee depends on your bargaining skills, but plan to pay at least Rp500,000, as fuel doesn’t come cheap these days. Most of the boats here are working boats, however, and not intended for tourists, so don’t expect life jackets and a complimentary bottle of water.
Continue on past the boats and take a right on Jl. Pendaratan Ikan. Follow this road, checking out and chatting with the seafood sellers, all the way to its terminus at the sea. On the right is a giant warehouse where mass amounts of seafood are delivered, weighed, sorted and distributed. On the left is more of the same. Just wander about, take pictures and perhaps even pick up dinner. Keep an eye out for the trucks laden with giant slabs of ice and watch them unload the perspiring, rectangular blocks using long, metal hooks.
2 FISH SNACK CENTER
Also along Jl. Pendaratan Ikan is a long stretch of otak-otak sellers. This tasty snack is made from steamed fish wrapped in a banana leaf and grilled over charcoal. It’s a specialty from Sulawesi, but many other regions have their own variations. Past these vendors, on the left, is the Pusat Jajanan Serba Ikan (Fish Snack Center), which caters to those looking for a fresh seafood dinner. Near here is the largest concentration of fresh seafood sellers in the area, most of whom display their collections on tables, in Styrofoam coolers or in large, three-legged bowls. Catches include crabs, clams, lobsters (including females loaded with eggs), squid, shrimp, mussels, snails and a large variety of fish, from snapper to sardines. This is a great place for photographs, but be sure to smile and ask before taking a person’s photo. As with all markets, especially fish markets, the action is hottest when it’s cool—early in the morning. Try to get here around 6am, if possible.
FAST FACT
According to local legend, the name Muara Angke may come from Tubagus Angke, a warlord from the kingdom of Banten. Other derivations include the Hokkien word ang for ‘red,’ referring to when the nearby river ran this color after the Dutch slaughter of the Chinese in 1740. The word muara means estuary.
3, 4 FISH DRYING RACKS I AND II
After reaching the end of the road, turn back and watch out for Jl. Pelelangan on the right, which is just before the fire station. Turn right and walk up the road, passing a football field and some apartment blocks. On the right are shrimp ponds. On the left you’ll spot the vast Fish Drying Racks, each covered with splayed-out
