left at a track junction and follow the border past borderstone 63. Shortcut left down a path, soon to rejoin the track. Cross a stream, then shortly afterwards turn left and follow a path along the stream. The path leaves the stream and crosses the track before joining a major track. Follow this alongside a large stream, cross the D4 road and follow a smaller track. Eventually turn left across a bridge and the track soon becomes a path. The waymarking is a little confusing (in 2015) but ignore right turns and follow the path as it climbs to join a small tarmac road. Ignore a sharp right turn to Dancharia and arrive at Ainhoa. Veer left to reach the tourist office, which is in the mairie, opposite the church (5hr 25min, 120m).
Ainhoa is a tourist village with three hotels and a campground with gîte d’étape. There are many small shops for the tourist but the only food available is bread, cheese and Basque specialities at tourist prices. There are toilets, with water, just down the lane from the tourist office. There is more accommodation at Dancharia, about 3km SSW of Ainhoa.
FACILITIES FOR STAGE 2
Sare
Tourist office: tel 05 59 54 20 14, www.sare.fr
Hôtel Arraya: tel 05 59 54 20 46, www.arraya.com
Hôtel-restaurant Lastiry: tel 05 59 54 20 07, www.hotel-lastiry.com
Hôtel-restaurant Pikassaria: tel 05 59 54 21 51, www.hotel-pikassaria.com
Camping la Petite Rhune, 300m from the GR10, also has a gîte d’étape. No meals but nearby bar-restaurant: tel 05 59 54 23 97, www.lapetiterhune.com
Ainhoa
Tourist office: tel 05 59 29 93 99, www.ainhoa.fr
Camping Harazpy also has a gîte d’étape. No meals: tel 05 59 29 89 38, www.camping-harazpy.com
Hôtel la Maison Oppoca: tel 05 59 29 90 72, www.oppoca.com
Hôtel Argi Eder: tel 05 59 93 72 00, www.argi-eder.com
Hôtel Ithurria: tel 05 59 29 92 11, www.ithurria.com
STAGE 3
Ainhoa to Bidarray
| Start | Ainhoa |
| Distance | 21km |
| Total ascent | 800m |
| Total descent | 800m |
| Time | 5hr 45min |
| High point | Col des Trois-Croix (510m), Col de Méhatché (716m) |
Wild camping is possible throughout this stage, which follows exposed grassy ridges typical of the Basque Country. The GR10 contours round most of the summits but, in good weather, you may prefer to take in up to four summits: Errebi, Atxulegi, Mont Bizkayluze and Gorospil. The descent to Bidarray is down an exposed, rocky mountain path that could take a long time for the inexperienced or overladen hiker, especially in bad weather. This is the most difficult descent on the GR10.
Follow the lane right, E, past the tourist office, veering left and right before turning right at a junction with a waterpoint and forking left up a dirt road. Climb steeply, passing nine large white crosses and a shrine with a waterpoint (running well June 2014 and 2015) before reaching the Chapelle de l’Aubépine (40min, 389m). Here there are multitude of small stone crosses and three large white crosses depicting the crucifiction of Christ. This is not the Col des Trois-Croix! Veer left past the crosses.
‘Crucifiction of Christ’ at Chapelle de l’Aubépine
In good weather you may prefer to take the obvious path over the summit of Errebi (582m), rejoining the GR10 at the Col des Trois-Croix (same timing).
The GR10 passes old mine workings as it contours round the N slopes of Errebi. Shortly after a right fork, turn right up a path and soon resume contouring, passing a barn and merging with a small track. Climb to a shallow col where you resume contouring on a bigger track before climbing gently to the Col des Trois-Croix (1hr 20min, 510m), which is marked by a single small iron cross!
You could traverse Atxulegi (617m) (taking about 15min longer) but the GR10 continues along the track round the S slopes, descending gently to an unnamed col with a complex junction. Head SE along the middle of the three tracks to another shallow col and continue on the track that veers right and climbs gently to the Col Zuharreteaco (2hr 10min, 566m) with a spring that was dry in June 2018.
In good weather it would be preferable to follow the ridge, roughly south, over Mont Bizkayluze (701m) and Gorospil (691m) to reach the border before turning left to regain the GR10 at Ferme Esteben.
The GR10 follows the track contouring the E side of the ridge. The track has become a path by the time you fork left as the end of the ridge is approached, then descend gently to reach a concrete track. Turn left and pass the back entrance to Ferme Esteben (2hr 50min, 580m), which is a gîte d’étape with a bar-restaurant.
The GR10 continues down the concrete track and goes straight on along a fence, when the track veers right. This path passes borderstone 77 and soon joins the tarmac access road to Ferme Esteben. Follow this road to a junction at the Col des Veaux (550m). There is a sign to Venta Burkaitz with bar-restaurant and accommodation, in Spain, which is about 300m S of the Col des Veaux.
The GR10 goes straight on up a track then follows the main track left at a junction and forks right up a path, veering left at the top of the fence to reach a tarmac road. In good weather you might like to climb the grassy Pic Iguzki (843m) to the E regaining the GR10 at the Col de Méhatché. The GR10 follows the road right along the N slopes of the hill to reach the Col de Méhatché (3hr 35min, 716m).
From the Col de Méhatché you could climb Artzamendi (926m) following the tarmac road to the communications complex on the summit or Pic Iguzki (844m) by its grassy northeast ridge.
The GR10 turns half-right, E, to reach a ridge which is followed past borderstone 82 and on to borderstone 83 at the Col d’Artzatey. Skirt left of the next top to the next col (3hr 55min, 630m). Before reaching the barn on the col, turn sharp right and descend steeply into a crag-bound valley. A rough rocky path then descends down the N slopes of the valley. There are now wires to protect the most exposed rocksteps.
Towards the bottom of the descent a small path goes steeply up to the left to the Grotte le Saint-que-Sue (Harpeko Saindua). Legend suggests that a young shepherdess was found ‘petrified’ in the rock. The cave became a
