The GR10 Trail. Brian Johnson

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down the D404. You soon fork right up a path, the Sentier des Mulets, turning right just before a gate and climbing steeply before veering right and turning left to descend on an increasingly good track to a barrier. Fork right along a path and turn right just before returning to the D404 (4hr 45min). Descend through woods to the left of a stream and eventually, just after a log bridge, turn right across the stream and follow another stream gently uphill. Stay on the right-hand side of the stream at a log bridge. You are on a Roman road originally built to serve the mining industry. Enter Spain at borderstone 18 to arrive at Venta Inzola (5hr 15min, 115m) which is a bar-restaurant.

      Cross the stream immediately N of the Venta and follow the path as it climbs through the woods back into France to reach a complex junction at the Col du Grand Escarga (Deskargahandiko Lepoa) (5hr 35min, 273m). This col provides the last obvious campsites before Olhette. Follow the right-hand of the two paths, which goes straight on, veering left as it descends gently before forking left on a smaller path. After another left fork you arrive at the roadhead at Olhette (6hr 5min, 65m).

      Olhette is a hamlet with two gîtes d’étape and one hotel. Gîte d’étape Manttu-Baïta is at the roadhead and the hotel and the Gîte d’étape Trapero Baïta are on the ‘main’ road about 500m further N. There is a waterpoint at the Gîte d’étape Manttu-Baïta.

      FACILITIES FOR STAGE 1

      Hendaye

      Hendaye tourist office, east of the old casino: tel 05 59 20 00 34, www.hendaye-tourisme.fr

      Camping des Deux Jumeaux, along the coast road near the east end of Hendaye-Plage: tel 05 59 20 01 65, www.camping-des-2Jumeaux.com

      Selected accommodation close to the railway station:

      Gîte du Littoral Côte Basque (gîte d’étape): tel 06 30 66 29 95

      Hôtel de la Gare: tel 05 59 20 81 90, http://saintmartinmaite.pagesperso-orange.fr

      Biriatou

      Hôtel-restaurant les Jardins de Bakea: tel 05 59 20 02 01, www.bakea.fr

      Auberge Hiribarren is a chambres d’hôtes with bar-restaurant: tel 05 59 20 61 83, www.auberge-hiribarren.com

      Col d’Ibardin

      Elizalde Restaurante offers accommodation: tel 0948 631 024 (Spanish)

      Olhette

      Gîte d’étape Manttu-Baïta has gîte d’étape and chambres d’hôtes accommodation. Tel: 05 59 54 46 72 or 06 20 43 49 25, www.chambre-d-hote-cote-basque-manttu.fr

      Gîte d’étape Trapero Baïta offers accommodation, meals, a swimming pool and possibly camping in the garden. English spoken: tel 05 59 54 42 59, 06 66 08 56 95, [email protected], www.facebook.com/Chambres-dhôtes-trapero-baîta-114558492050996

      Hôtel-restaurant Trabenia: tel 05 59 54 01 91, www.hotel-trabenia.com

      Olhette to Ainhoa

Start Olhette
Distance 21km
Total ascent 700m
Total descent 700m
Time 5hr 25min
High point Col des Trois Fontaines (563m)

      The stage starts with an easy climb to the Col des Trois Fontaines (Errepausuko Lepoa) from where it would be possible to climb la Rhune (905m), with its communication masts and station. There is too much road walking after Sare. The profile may look flat, but it is actually a succession of small ups and downs; don’t expect flat walking in the Basque Country!

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      From Olhette return to the roadhead, cross the stream, pass through the car park and take the path from the far left corner. You soon fork left, ignore turns to left and right, fork left again and turn right along a better track. Ignore assorted small paths and climb steadily until you fork left up a faint path immediately below the Col des Trois Fontaines.

      The summit of la Rhune can be reached by following the main path, which veers right to gain the west ridge of la Rhune. Climb to the top by following the green arrows on a popular path. There are communications masts, a railway station, several bar-restaurants and tourist shops marring the summit. It will take 1½ hours to get there and back.

      The GR10 continues to the col (1hr 30min, 563m). There is a small bothy, Arranoxola, about 300m N of the col, which was in excellent condition in 2015.

      On the descent you cross a number of streams of dubious quality. Head E along the right-hand path veering right, roughly SE, to reach the rack railway which takes tourists from the Col de St-Ignace (NW of Sare) to the summit of la Rhune. Cross the railway track and follow the path, which descends gently to the right of the track. Turn sharp right at the second group of ruined farm buildings, then left after crossing a small stream. The track gradually improves before becoming a small tarmac road. Pass a waterpoint, turn sharp left at a farm and then down a path to the left of a house. Pass another waterpoint before turning right along a small road, which you follow down to the main road. Go half-left through the car park and right up a path, passing a large fronton, swimming pool and Spar supermarket (new in 2016) to arrive at the church at the centre of Sare (2hr 45min, 70m).

      A fronton is the court for playing pelota – a Basque sport bearing some similarity to the game of squash. There are many variations to pelota, played with a ball using one’s hand, a racket, a wooden bat or a basket, usually played by teams of two.

      Sare is a small village with a tourist office, campground and many small shops. Public toilets and a waterpoint are by the swimming pool. Hotels Arraya and Lastiry are in the centre of the village, with cheaper accommodation further along the GR10. There is a bus service from Sare connecting with the rail network at St-Jean-de-Luz.

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      The cobbled path leaving Sare

      Turn right after the church. The road leads to a cobbled lane heading out of the village. Keep straight on up a tarmac road and up some steps to reach a road (3hr). Turn right for the Hôtel Pikassaria and Camping la Petite Rhune, which has a gîte d’étape.

      The GR10 goes sharp left. Ignore several turns and keep straight on down a track, then turn right along a cobbled path. Pass a waterpoint before turning right along the D306. Almost immediately turn left across the river and veer left up a track at the end of the road. Turn right along a minor road and then fork left. Continue until a track forks left at Bordaberriko Borda. Follow this track which becomes a small road. Fork left, then go

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