The GR10 Trail. Brian Johnson

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bothering with. There are good maps available but you will have to pay for them.

      THE GR10

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      Le Billare (Stage 11)

      1 HENDAYE-PLAGE TO ETSAUT

      KEY INFORMATION

Distance 221km
Total ascent 11,300m
Time 68hr walking
Maps IGN Carte de Randonnées 1:50,000 maps 1–3

      The first nine stages to Sainte-Engrâce are over the steep rolling hills of the Basque Country. This is followed by a rapid transition to the steep limestone peaks of the High Pyrenees. This is the easiest section of the GR10, but in early season there could be problems with snow in the final stages.

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      Plateau de Lhers (Stage 12)

      Getting to the start from Hendaye railway station

      Head NE from the station, then turn left over the railway and follow the road all the way to the old casino on the seafront at Hendaye-Plage (40mins). If you are on a local train it is quicker to get off at les Deux Jumeaux station and then head N to the seafront.

      Hendaye-Plage to Olhette

Start Résidence Croisière (old casino), Hendaye-Plage
Distance 21km
Total ascent 1200m
Total descent 1100m
Time 6hr 5min
High point N slopes of Mandale (530m)
Note Although Coleman-style camping gas is difficult to find in Hendaye, all types of camping gas are available at the Decathlon store on the Txingudi commercial area at the southwest end of Irún near junction 2 of the A-8 autopista in Spain.

      Once Hendaye is left behind the GR10 provides easy walking, through a mixture of woodland and pasture, over the steep rolling hills of the Basque Country.

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      Hendaye has the international railway station and the main shopping areas while the beach resort of Hendaye-Plage, with its 3km sandy beach, has most of the accommodation and tourist facilities. There are toilets just along the seafront to the W of the start.

      The town of Hendaye is only separated from the Spanish town of Irún by la Bidassoa river. The GR10 starts at the Résidence Croisière on the seafront. This magnificent building, built in 1885 in neo-Moorish style, was originally a casino but is now occupied by a selection of restaurants and tourist shops. For those who are travelling light, the E end of the beach is costumes-optional.

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      The old ‘casino’ in Hendaye-Plage

      Head S down the Boulevard du Général Leclerc and, at a large roundabout, veer right down Rue des Citronniers to reach la Baie de Chingoudy. Turn left along the promenade, passing two sets of toilets and a waterpoint by a play area, to reach the Stade Bixente Lizarazu football ground. Veer left round the far end of the pitch, pass another waterpoint and go under the bridge to a roundabout. Keep straight on along a passage between flats and veer left up a minor road and along a footpath to another roundabout. Keep straight on up the Chemin de Biaténia which merges with the Boulevard de l’Emperor (30min). Turn right here if you need the large Intermarché supermarket (15min), which sells original and easy-clic camping gas.

      Turn left for the GR10 and fork right up Rue Errondenia. At the top of the road turn right up the Rue de Pausoa and out of town. At the top of the hill turn left down a track, soon forking right and right again for your first wild camping opportunity (50min). Fork left to the top of Migeltxoenborda (132m) and veer left down to the D810 road (formerly N10). Turn left along the road and, after 100m, fork right down a track which soon becomes a path. At a junction, fork right along a track which becomes a small tarmac road. Then it’s left at a junction, fork right at the top of a hill, straight on at the next junction, sharp left, left again and next right to reach a tunnel which takes you under the A63 motorway. Ignore a sharp left turn and some tarmac drives to reach a junction at the top of the hill (1hr 40min).

      Turn right if you want to visit the hamlet of Biriatou. There is a waterpoint in the hotel car park and public toilets with waterpoint near the auberge, below the church. If you visit Biriatou you can rejoin the G10 by following the signs rather than returning to the junction.

      Turn left for the GR10, then fork right, turn left, fork right and climb. As the gradient eases, fork right and immediately left up a track (1hr 50min). Right and left forks bring you under powerlines. In bad weather the old GR10 route is preferable following the track traversing S to a 4-way junction. Take the right-hand of the two left turns and climb to rejoin the GR10 at Col de Poiriers (Pitara).

      The GR10 goes left and immediately right to follow a path, which climbs to the right of the powerlines before reaching a viewpoint, with picnic table, under the powerlines at the foot of the rocky NW ridge of Xoldokogaina. After crossing the ridge fork right, right again and then turn right to regain the ridge above the crags. Follow the path easily up to the monument on the summit of Xoldokogaina (2hr 55min, 486m).

      Descend roughly S to the Col d’Osin, veering left along a better track to the Col des Poiriers, which has good dry campsites and an ancient tumulus (3hr 15min, 316m). Follow the path, roughly SE, which climbs into the forest and reaches Col des Joncs (419m). Veer left up the ridge, fork right then turn sharp left back onto the ridge and turn right up the ridge.

      The remains of an old hill fort, Redoute de la Baïonette, are worth visiting in good weather. They are reached by taking a sharp right turn onto the ridge and then following a good path northeast to the summit of Mandale. The remains are found at borderstone 9. After borderstone 10 veer slightly left to rejoin the GR10 for the descent to the Col d’Ibardin.

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      A stream below Col d’Ibardin

      The GR10 contours the N slopes of Mandale (574m). The mountain ahead with the communications mast is la Rhune (905m). Eventually, at a switchback, turn right down a small path to reach Elizalde Restaurante at the Col d’Ibardin (4hr 5min).

      The Col d’Ibardin has a multitude of bar-restaurants and supermarkets offering food and alcohol at Spanish prices. The Elizalde Restaurante offers accommodation. There are public toilets with water at the garage with a tourist office across the road.

      Follow the road, which is the border between France

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